Climax Models Wasp
#1
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Most people in this forum seem to be working around the GWS foamies and other ARF parkflyers (with the odd Mountain Models plane here and there), so I thought I'd toss something different into the mix here. I bought the Climax Models Wasp from parkflyer motors for under $40, and it only took a few hours more to build than a typical foamie. You've got to supply your own covering, motor, wheels, and hinges, but linkages, and LG wire are in the kit, and the laser cutting is excellent. the most time consuming aspect was shaping the wing LE, and even that only took 1/2 hour with a razor plane and sanding block. This was only my 2nd balsa r/c kit, though I have built FF rubber stuff before. The covering is solite dark green and white (bottom of wing and stab solid green), uses 2 hs-55s for aileron/elevator, gws rx and esc, maxx products wheels, and an IPS for power. I hope to maiden it as soon as daylight and weather permit.
#3
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This weekend saw the wasp through it's first three flights and (unfortunately) its first crash. The first two flight attempts at the club field were underwhelming; I had to fight for altitude, and couldn't loop or do much beyond cruise. When I got home, I had the bright idea to check the voltage on the 3s etec I was using--no wonder, the battery was just about flat. I headed to the hayfield with the fresh pack and let 'er rip. After a full-throttle hand launch, my face looked like this: [X(]. Man, this thing is fast! And twitchy(note to self, next time check dual rate switch before launch). After a few steep climbs and high speed passes, I got comfortable enough to loop. Beautiful. Next, roll. Two full rolls before I could neutralize the stick[X(]...that should have been a hint. Nope, I went for it again. I over-rotated, and before I caught it, the tree did[:@]. ('nuther note to self, don't do aerobatics in small field, don't stand under trees while flying, and don't fly directly over yer head...or at least not all at the same time!) Dumb, I know. A protruding branch caught the wingtip, and sheared the fuse top, one root rib, poked several holes in the bottom wing solite, popped the tailfeathers off, broke the elev. control horn, and broke the motor mount stick. Fortunately, it only took me about an hour to get her airworthy again last night.
Summary:
This is a very exciting little plane. It's simple to build (and repair), handles well, and offers performance that just doesn't seem possible on an IPS motor. Some report lack of power, so I setup is key here: prop for high rpm and keep her light. I used an IPS-A with an 8060 prop and 3s etec 700 pack. This setup gets a small, high pitch prop going fast for less static thrust, but the prop unloads in flight, because this plane is faster than it looks. Balanced on the spar, it needs up trim on the elev. Turns require quite a bit more elev. to maintain altitude compared to most r/e ships. All in all, great bang for the buck.
Summary:
This is a very exciting little plane. It's simple to build (and repair), handles well, and offers performance that just doesn't seem possible on an IPS motor. Some report lack of power, so I setup is key here: prop for high rpm and keep her light. I used an IPS-A with an 8060 prop and 3s etec 700 pack. This setup gets a small, high pitch prop going fast for less static thrust, but the prop unloads in flight, because this plane is faster than it looks. Balanced on the spar, it needs up trim on the elev. Turns require quite a bit more elev. to maintain altitude compared to most r/e ships. All in all, great bang for the buck.
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I am seriously considering the Wasp Max which is slightly larger. Some of your numbers are sort of greek to me since I am new to RC Electrics (Glo-Flyer). What did IPS-A with an 8060 prop mean exactly. Also how does it land? Does it need a lot of approach to bleed off the speed to land?
Thanks
Thanks
#5
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Greyhound:
I was speaking GWS product language
. The IPS is that little 150-size motor that comes with the GWS tigermoth and pico stick. The -A suffix denotes the ratio; in the case of the IPS-A, the ratio is 5.86:1. The 8060 prop is an 8x6 GWS slowflyer prop--the orange one with the rounded tips. GWS names their props with the first two digits noting the diameter and the last two the pitch, so a 1047 is a 10x4.7 prop. It's a little confusing at first. They also make a series of "HD" props for direct drive which more closely resemble a typical glow engine prop. If you click the following link and read through some of the different charts on the propellor and eps pages, it may clear things up a little. [link=http://www.gws.com.tw/english/product/product.htm]GWS products[/link]
About the wasp's landing characteristics: It does slow down pretty well, and can fly along nose high on little power w/o dropping a wing, but I haven't quite had enough time to explore its slow flight regime yet, so I've been landing it by dropping of power on a high final leg, and gliding it in at a speed I know is above the stall. This probably results in a longer approach, but I still have room to do touch-and-goes on a baseball infield. I hear that the wasp-max is an even better airplane than the wasp, so I'd say go for it. It should have plenty of power with the recommended setup. Enjoy!
I was speaking GWS product language
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About the wasp's landing characteristics: It does slow down pretty well, and can fly along nose high on little power w/o dropping a wing, but I haven't quite had enough time to explore its slow flight regime yet, so I've been landing it by dropping of power on a high final leg, and gliding it in at a speed I know is above the stall. This probably results in a longer approach, but I still have room to do touch-and-goes on a baseball infield. I hear that the wasp-max is an even better airplane than the wasp, so I'd say go for it. It should have plenty of power with the recommended setup. Enjoy!
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Congrats on the flights, and sorry for the carnage.
It sounds as if you like the plane.
Watch your motor running 3s packs. It probably won't last very long.
If you wanted to drop some pitch speed, a 10.4.7 works excellent on the IPS-A.
I hope the repairs go smoothly.
Jason
It sounds as if you like the plane.
Watch your motor running 3s packs. It probably won't last very long.
If you wanted to drop some pitch speed, a 10.4.7 works excellent on the IPS-A.
I hope the repairs go smoothly.
Jason
#7
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Jason:
The repairs were a snap--it was only out of commision for about 6 hours, and has logged about an hour and a half flight time since then. On the note of caution concerning 3s use, I too was wary about this setup and have been monitoring performance closely. Basically, I propped down to what you would use on one lower ratio (s-1) to keep the amp draw down. Static, it pulls ~2a WOT, which from my readings on the 'net, seems to be the practical limit for IPS motors. The motor has about 2 hrs runtime on it so far, and seems to be faring well. After an extended flying session (~20 minutes), the motor is just barely warm to the touch at landing. This, quite frankly, surprised me. Everyone warned me not to run IPS on 3S lipo, but so far, I haven't had the slightest problem (fingers crossed). I'm guessing the key is to try not to increase the total wattage too far above the stock levels.
The repairs were a snap--it was only out of commision for about 6 hours, and has logged about an hour and a half flight time since then. On the note of caution concerning 3s use, I too was wary about this setup and have been monitoring performance closely. Basically, I propped down to what you would use on one lower ratio (s-1) to keep the amp draw down. Static, it pulls ~2a WOT, which from my readings on the 'net, seems to be the practical limit for IPS motors. The motor has about 2 hrs runtime on it so far, and seems to be faring well. After an extended flying session (~20 minutes), the motor is just barely warm to the touch at landing. This, quite frankly, surprised me. Everyone warned me not to run IPS on 3S lipo, but so far, I haven't had the slightest problem (fingers crossed). I'm guessing the key is to try not to increase the total wattage too far above the stock levels.
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Proping down was a great idea. Most people run into trouble runing 3s packs with the larger props, and plan on being easy on the throttle. I have a hard time being easy on the throttle, so I limit the potential problems.
Jason
Jason