sedne

Those should work, here are the ones I used.

shawnkilpatrick

Well my Cub is really going to have to nose down now to hit the prop! My wheels look awsome tho, they look like those old school BMX wheels.... the ones with thick plastic spokes. I did have a little trouble mounting them however. The new rim is much thinner than the stock ones, so I hade to put a spacer on the axle. My only worry is that because the are much narrower they well be squirrly. I'll let you know how they work this weekend hopfully!

sedne

Sounds good, the important thing is weather it takes off and lands better in the grass. I know it sure made a difference with mine. Post some pics if you can.

LICobra

I need to ask a dumb question...how do you post a picture as an attachment ???

also from some of the previous posts....I have replaced the wing and the prop due to a large bush and a flag pole in the local park I fly. The flagpole did less damage then the bush !!!

Tony

sedne

Tony,

I'm not sure how you are posting pics now, but I click on "Post Reply" (lower left of current posting) not "Fast Reply". Next I click, "Click here to upload images and files! " in the lower left of where you type your reply. Then you just browse for your pic. I sometimes have to resize my pics if they are too large, that's a whole other process. Now I'm faaaar from an expert on these matters, someone else may have a better explanation or way of doing this. Any input will be appreciated.

Morey

LICobra

Morey...I got it now...thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

Tony

Spamman127

Yeah, if the wheels dont fit just drill them out thats what i've done in the past. The weight of the wheels isnt that important on the cub but if you fly off of grass big wheels (though some time s looking rediculous) is a must

studio99

I just got my j3 brushless cub at Christmas and I'm trying to see how slow I can get it to fly and still be controllable. I fly in a small park andwant to keep it close an slow. Any suggestions on how to determine the stall speed to achieve slow flight?

LICobra

Studio

Im fairly new at this but I have found, if it's calm you can fly fairly slow, but as the wind picks up more throttle is needed into the wind..... the slow turns are not as easy as the wing tips start to dip.... so I fly it a bit faster....when u start flying you'll see...remember altitude is your friend, if you want to practice flying slow you don't want t be too close to the ground...especially if you stall.

Tony

gramps45

hi gang,

glad i found this site. i'm new also. just been flying air hogs a little while. i'am planning on buying the j3 bl cub also. it is usually breezy here. winds about 5-15 mph anyone know .how it flys in winds like that? also any suggestions on the radio. futaba or spektrum? any info appreciated!!!!

aloha gramps

LICobra

Gramps45

I have been flying mine all winter so far...the cold doesn't bother me as much as the wind does...but the Cub will fly with a good breeze....it takes off much better into a head wind anyway. It bounces around a bit in the breeze but is flyable...I have had it flying into a 10mph head wind then brought down the rpms and it almost stayed in one spot. I bought the complete package and use the parkzone electronics. It seems to do the job for me.

LICobra

gramps45

LICobra

thanks for the reply. i think i'm going to get the j3 and spektum radio. already got some good info about the prop shaft and wheels. it'll probably be little while before i get in the air. the radio dont come out till early march. in the mean time i'll continue reading the treads and collect as much info i can get.

aloha gramps

Leo L

Here is a steerable tail wheel that I added to the plane about two years ago. I wanted to keep the forces on the rudder to a minimum, so I used the control horn to control the tail wheel.

Please note the reinforcement above the control horn. The J3Cub has a wakness at this location. The area of the rudder comes to a minimum and is prone to developing a crease at this "necked down" location. The crease allows the rudder to turn in one direction, but to flex in the other, resulting in your plane becoming unresponsive to your steering input in that direction. Epoxing a piece of hard plastic or wood across the necked down area resolves the problem.

AETCBoom4

Leo: Where did you get the tailwheel from? Do you have a part number?

gramps45

does anyone know if the servos that come with the plane fit the futaba 6ex recv.(r606fs). thanks for all the info everyone is posting.really come in handy..

aloha gramps!!!!

flhtc3

Here's what I found to replace the shaft for a J3 Cub BL:

Parkzone 370 Outrunner shaft - PKZ4518, $2.99 ea.
If the LHS doesn't have one (mine were back ordered) then get an E-Flite Park 400 Outrunner shaft - EFLM1301, $2.99 ea., I installed one no problem, just remember to remove the pre-installed clip.


Now to get at the shaft you'll need two different allen wrenches:

For the Prop Adapter, Balldriver L-Wrench,1.5mm [BON15750] - $.99
For the Rotor, Hexdriver, 1.3 x 40mm, Wiha Part Number: WHA96313, Price: $4.88

Be careful not to over-torque the motor set screws or you'll crack the housing.


Be careful buying parts off the rack at the LHS for your "Brushless" Cub, there are part differences between a Brushed and Brushless Parkzone Cub... best to have them look up the part you need.

Hope this helps.

studio99

Slow FLy J3BL

I got my j3bl for Christmas and love it, however it wants to travel fast!
I'm toying with the idea of buying a second wing and attatching a strip of foam approximately 1" wide to the back in the interest of creating a flap effect to allow slower flight.
The goal would be to make the aircraft able to fly slower by increasing the wing area and decreasing the wing loading.

Any ideas on whether or not this might work?
Would the wing extension best be attatched to the top or bottom of the wing?

Appreciate any input

Thanks

Pat

flhtc3

Thanks Leo,

I applied a balsa strip on the rudder as I noticed the "crease" developing on two of my J3's. I also "foamed" the nose for those rough landings.... one day I'll learn.

iheartmpls

Wow GREAT info! I've been looking all over trying to find the right part numbers and sizes for the motor shaft and set screws! I picked up my PZ BL Cub a few days ago and am pretty disappointed with how "soft" the prop shaft is. I did a simple nose-over during a very gentle landing and there was enough force to bend the shaft. I was able to bend the shaft back (with my fingers - that's how soft it is!) so it pseudo-works, but it still vibrates enough to be audible. The one thing I loved about this plane was how quiet it is in the air! The prop shaft wobble makes it sound like a Harley!

For those of you who have replaced the stock shaft with the eflite 400, have you found the eflite shaft to be a bit stronger and/or less prone to bending?

Groundrushesup

I have had my Cub for about 2 weeks now and I love it. I went PNP and used one of my AR6100s with my DX7 to complete the setup. I've noticed, however, that if you accidentally (or otherwise) turn off the Tx while the battery is plugged in, the motor goes off full-throttle and wont stop until you either unplug the battery or turn the Tx back on and wait a few seconds for it to start up and clear/zero all the channels.

This, as you can imagine, has lead to more than a few *** moments. [X(]

Now, I'm not the most experienced guy with BL or electrics in general, so I guess I am wondering aloud if this is standard behavior, or should I just stop turning off the Tx accidentally (lulz). Mind you, this usually happens when I am going into the programming mode on the DX7 to fiddle with trim settings or the like.

On a lighter note, I also went a little MacGyver today and hacked in 8" flaperons on a spare wing I bought (basically to see if I could do it) and I must say it adds another dimension to this already fun little plane. Not the most elegant setup (wing-mounted servos exposed, in mkII I'm gonna do a torque rod setup I think) but in the notoriously breezy Hill Country where I live, it sure helps keep things stable on ROG and landings. Today I maidened the flaperons, and I'll be snookered if the thing didn't take off in less than 10 feet into a gust .

Groundrushesup

Hard to imagine it could be as weak, I've had to true mine about 3 times after similar nose-ins. Actually I think the last time it bent was because the prop broke after kicking up a little sand (delicate things they are) and the second or two I left the throttle on pulled it out of true. IMO, as far as BL setups go this outfit overall is pretty flimsy but it gets the job done.

Freakin' battery hatch is my biggest complaint. The two Parkzone planes I have - the J-3 BL and the P-51 - both have issues with battery doors designed by chimps. And not the space program chimps either. Poo-tossing chimps.

Grrr!

Oh Parkzone, how cn I stay mad at you? lol

Groundrushesup

This post came from the P-51 thread where it was a little too off topic.

Well, It seems that every few outings to the park I get everything ready to go, and when I test the throttle, it is anemic... sorta chopped at the top end, but if I let it run for 5-7 seconds it slowly creeps up to maximum, then slows a bit, then back up.... it does this no matter what settings I have on the ESC, and trimming / adjusting range on the throttle doesn't seem to make a difference. I'll kill the throttle, wait a few seconds, and then when I try ramping it back up to WOT, same thing happens. I'll fiddle with it for 5 minutes, get peeved that it isn't working, and then all of the sudden BAM the inconsistency disappears and it works just fine for a whole 10-15 minute flight.

This is the standard eflight 10A ESC that comes with the bird in the box, run through an AR6100e (edge connectors) with the standard PZ 2S Lipo pack, fully balanced, though admittedly with the PZ charger that I got with the P-51's LiPo kit.

Could it be a matter of the number of poles on this motor? Or could it b a bent shaft? There is some wobble but I have done my best to keep it true between... ahem... mishaps

evilhorse

hey ya'll, i'm a nitro heli pilot, and this is my second attempt at planks(although these are made of foam) so far i think my cub is pretty cool, i want the T-28 and the Typhoon2 next.

raptor fan

Wow ,I didnt know you could change the moter shaft how did you do it?I bent a shaft and had to by a whole new moter [&o] .any tips would be nice.

evilhorse

take the prop/hub off the motor, take out the 2 grub screws on the fround of the motor and the C-clip off the back ( i think) and thats it.