OMP 50in 10-300 Ultimate - Marty's Build
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I sure can see where you would be uncomfortable with that wing joining. Something doesnt look right there with all that bow in those rails. Might it be better to cut the rib's a little deeper and add a little stock on the bottom of the rails sanded to a long taper?
Any comments from MIKE?
Any comments from MIKE?
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ORIGINAL: Spacey
Marty do you think the incidence meters are really needed to get it right? I don't have one?
Marty do you think the incidence meters are really needed to get it right? I don't have one?
But it's always nice to measure and make sure. Sometimes you find surprises!
If you are serious about building, I would definitely have one of these on my wish list.
The Great Planes laser meter is remarkably precise and reasonably priced.
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The finished product, after sanding the edges clean and fitting a new dowel and bolt.
I figure I added maybe 1/4oz to the model with this operation.
I figure I added maybe 1/4oz to the model with this operation.
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Tail section is hinged.
I’m using small (3/32in) pin hinges here. 5 on the rudder, 4 per elevator side.
Regular 1/8in pin hinges would be too big here, and weaken the structure.
The plan calls for CA hinges, which would work fine too. I just like these better.
Note added scabs, to fully enclose the entire length of the hinges.
This ensures epoxy doesn’t drip into the open structure during final assembly.
Also provides better bite for the hinge barbs.
Weather was good today, so I packed it in and went flying for the afternoon.
(I’m still dialing in my previous project, a Lanier Ultimate Pitts)
I’m using small (3/32in) pin hinges here. 5 on the rudder, 4 per elevator side.
Regular 1/8in pin hinges would be too big here, and weaken the structure.
The plan calls for CA hinges, which would work fine too. I just like these better.
Note added scabs, to fully enclose the entire length of the hinges.
This ensures epoxy doesn’t drip into the open structure during final assembly.
Also provides better bite for the hinge barbs.
Weather was good today, so I packed it in and went flying for the afternoon.
(I’m still dialing in my previous project, a Lanier Ultimate Pitts)
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Marty could you be so kind to post a couple in the bones shots before covering, fully assembled.
I'll stick on the front page of OMP website and caption it "nude model of the month".
I'll stick on the front page of OMP website and caption it "nude model of the month".
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Marty I guess you are right regarding the incidence meter. I guess its time to visit Tower sometime soon. Here by me the stuff is simply too expensive. Last time I was at the LHS they were asking $116 for the great planes one. I'm sure I'll get it at tower landed for much cheaper.
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The amount of bow required in the joiner spars is really minimal. I had no problem pressing them into place and sheeting across the midsection on all the prototypes but maybe I'm too close to it (you think!). This procedure is also done on the Matlok OMP Katana kit for the midsection. I'll stay tuned for more customer feedback and certainly make improvements if needed. The way the laser cutting is done the wings should fall right into place very accurately. But Marty iws absolutely right in that all serious builders should have an incidence meter. Heck the same goes for ARF builders as well. I know the few arfs I've gotten in past years needed adjustments in incidence. A certain 80" Cap ARF I got years ago was so off I could never get the plane flying right until I checked the incidence of everything. The engine, stab, and both wings were significantly off. The stab needed almost 1/4" shim in the front to get it right.
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It's super easy on this airplane, as the thrust line and wing/stab incidences are all 0-degrees.
In post 35 above, I transferred the motor thrust line from the plans to the fuselage.
The procedure is to jig the airplane to the workbench, so it doesn't move around.
Tilt the fuselage fore/aft until this line is level. Use a regular spirit level to measure.
Then use the incidence meter on the wings, and make sure both of them read zero.
Try different places along the spans to check for wash-in/out. (You want zero everywhere)
If you see a degree or more off from this, something will need to be adjusted.
If you can keep all measurements within +/- 1/4 to 1/2 degree, you are ready to rock 'n roll.
Same procedure for the horizontal stab.
Some meters come with prop shaft adapters, so you can measure the motor alignment too.
Don't get too obsessive with this tool!
A good eyeballing will get you close, an should be done anyway as a reality check.
But like I said earlier, its good to be able to measure accurately to make sure.
In post 35 above, I transferred the motor thrust line from the plans to the fuselage.
The procedure is to jig the airplane to the workbench, so it doesn't move around.
Tilt the fuselage fore/aft until this line is level. Use a regular spirit level to measure.
Then use the incidence meter on the wings, and make sure both of them read zero.
Try different places along the spans to check for wash-in/out. (You want zero everywhere)
If you see a degree or more off from this, something will need to be adjusted.
If you can keep all measurements within +/- 1/4 to 1/2 degree, you are ready to rock 'n roll.
Same procedure for the horizontal stab.
Some meters come with prop shaft adapters, so you can measure the motor alignment too.
Don't get too obsessive with this tool!
A good eyeballing will get you close, an should be done anyway as a reality check.
But like I said earlier, its good to be able to measure accurately to make sure.
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Most of the day today was spent installing linkages, and getting everything fitting perfect.
This is all straightforward, and went pretty quick, so not too many pictures.
A couple quick notes on the ailerons.
I was uncomfortable with the torsional rigidity of the stock ailerons.
Especially since the servo linkages are all the way inboard.
So I added some diagonal bracing to stiffen things up a bit.
When I built the upper ailerons, I noticed my parts didn’t fit the plans well.
Today was the time I needed to adjust what I ended up with, and make it fit right.
I had no issues with the bottom ailerons. The parts built up into a perfect fit.
OMP is aware I had this issue.
Maybe it was just me or my kit, but keep an eye on this if you’re building one of these.
This is all straightforward, and went pretty quick, so not too many pictures.
A couple quick notes on the ailerons.
I was uncomfortable with the torsional rigidity of the stock ailerons.
Especially since the servo linkages are all the way inboard.
So I added some diagonal bracing to stiffen things up a bit.
When I built the upper ailerons, I noticed my parts didn’t fit the plans well.
Today was the time I needed to adjust what I ended up with, and make it fit right.
I had no issues with the bottom ailerons. The parts built up into a perfect fit.
OMP is aware I had this issue.
Maybe it was just me or my kit, but keep an eye on this if you’re building one of these.
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Man and tail gear are installed.
I never have bolts long enough to attach the main gear, so I just use pieces of #6 all-thread with bolts on both ends. Standard bolts will be substituted with nylocks on final assembly.
Leaf spring type tail gear from CB Tatone has worked well for my last few models.
All the other cheaper (plastic) one I tried never lasted very well for me.
Radio hatch is built up 1/8in to allow clearance for receiver/battery and padding.
Beveling tool is used again here to clean up the appearance a little.
I never have bolts long enough to attach the main gear, so I just use pieces of #6 all-thread with bolts on both ends. Standard bolts will be substituted with nylocks on final assembly.
Leaf spring type tail gear from CB Tatone has worked well for my last few models.
All the other cheaper (plastic) one I tried never lasted very well for me.
Radio hatch is built up 1/8in to allow clearance for receiver/battery and padding.
Beveling tool is used again here to clean up the appearance a little.
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Fin and filler blocks installed per the instructions.
The plans don’t call for this, but a little extra triangle stock makes me sleep better.
Once that assembly has set up, rudder hinge line is set up and beveled.
I should have this thing complete “in the bones†tomorrow morning.
I’ll post pictures and the weight as soon as I’m done.
The plans don’t call for this, but a little extra triangle stock makes me sleep better.
Once that assembly has set up, rudder hinge line is set up and beveled.
I should have this thing complete “in the bones†tomorrow morning.
I’ll post pictures and the weight as soon as I’m done.
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In the bones, fully functional except for covering.
It's nose heavy right now, even with the motor pushed all the way back.
Weight as shown is 5lb10oz. (No this is not a typo)
Looks like I am easily going to come 3/4lb under the advertised weight, ready to fly. [sm=thumbup.gif]
This thing is going to be a missile with the Saito 100. [8D]
Dion, PM me with with a location to upload hi-rez pics.
It's nose heavy right now, even with the motor pushed all the way back.
Weight as shown is 5lb10oz. (No this is not a typo)
Looks like I am easily going to come 3/4lb under the advertised weight, ready to fly. [sm=thumbup.gif]
This thing is going to be a missile with the Saito 100. [8D]
Dion, PM me with with a location to upload hi-rez pics.
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Well I've been working on mine for 4 days (and not constant either) and the wings, all flat parts and 3/4 of the fuse are done. It is a fast build for a bipe. Well thought out. I just wish the foam core had the cut outs lasered in it. It would make it easier to find the correct place to cut on the opposite side, but that's a pretty minor complaint. I also added some triangular stiffners to the ailerons. I didnt like the way they wanted to bow after they came off the board. My only real complaint with the whole thing is like every OMP kit I've built the balsa selection is way too heavy and hard. But I know some of that is luck of the draw. The 4" fuse sheeting looks cross cut and is as hard as basswood. Time to finalize the covering scheme and order some ultracoat. Im trying to convince mysely that pearl colors would be worth the extra 5 bucks a roll.
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Lookin great Marty!
i dont think those rubberbands will be strong enough to hold that motor down..LOL![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Im surprised u didnt radius the fuse at all? i always like a nice 1/8" radius on the fuse edges, makes the covering seams disapear, and softens up the sharpness.
Keep up the great work
i dont think those rubberbands will be strong enough to hold that motor down..LOL
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Im surprised u didnt radius the fuse at all? i always like a nice 1/8" radius on the fuse edges, makes the covering seams disapear, and softens up the sharpness.
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Hey Smallfly, I'd love to get the foam laser cut and we did lots of experiments with our supplier but it is just not possible. When the laser beam hit the foam it difuses a little and then you get a nice big fat beam kerf cut through the foam. Might look ok on one side but the other side gets splattered. We played with all variety of settings like power, speed, and focus but the technologu isn't there yet. The white foam has to be hot wired.
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Weather was excellent this afternoon - Got in about 8 20-minute flights.
Saito 100 with APC 15x6 is excellent match to this airframe.
Hitec HS-5475 digitals were a good choice as well. More than enough torque/speed on 5 cells.
CG indicated in the plans/instructions is right on the money for the first flights.
I've started moving back, but don't expect to add more than 1-2oz to the tail to get it "perfect".
Snap/spin performance is a bit anemic right now - I expect this to liven up with CG tweaking.
Easy airplane to fly. Hovering is no problem.
Aileron and elevator sensitivity is as expected.
Rudder is remarkably sensitive. Start with 40% deflection and 35% expo on low rates.
Reponds to elevator->flap mix just like all my other profiles (Tightens performance in loops)
I have a few minor warps in my control surfaces I need to fix before further trimming.
Had a dead stick on my 2nd flight.
This plane does not glide forever (like the OMP Edges) but does not come down like a brick like some other bipes.
If you can dead stick in a trainer, you won't have a problem with this one.
A minor nit is this airplane is a bit of a pain to put together at the field.
10 screws are neeeded to assemble the wings. The aileron servo hookup in the upper wing is a bit awkward.
This one is probably going to stay put together for transport - No biggie.
If you're experienced with profile monoplanes, and want the sex appeal of a profile bipe, this is a good one.
Saito 100 with APC 15x6 is excellent match to this airframe.
Hitec HS-5475 digitals were a good choice as well. More than enough torque/speed on 5 cells.
CG indicated in the plans/instructions is right on the money for the first flights.
I've started moving back, but don't expect to add more than 1-2oz to the tail to get it "perfect".
Snap/spin performance is a bit anemic right now - I expect this to liven up with CG tweaking.
Easy airplane to fly. Hovering is no problem.
Aileron and elevator sensitivity is as expected.
Rudder is remarkably sensitive. Start with 40% deflection and 35% expo on low rates.
Reponds to elevator->flap mix just like all my other profiles (Tightens performance in loops)
I have a few minor warps in my control surfaces I need to fix before further trimming.
Had a dead stick on my 2nd flight.
This plane does not glide forever (like the OMP Edges) but does not come down like a brick like some other bipes.
If you can dead stick in a trainer, you won't have a problem with this one.
A minor nit is this airplane is a bit of a pain to put together at the field.
10 screws are neeeded to assemble the wings. The aileron servo hookup in the upper wing is a bit awkward.
This one is probably going to stay put together for transport - No biggie.
If you're experienced with profile monoplanes, and want the sex appeal of a profile bipe, this is a good one.
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[sm=thumbup.gif] Great stuff Marty! It looks awesome! And the flight report sounds very positive. I started building mine last night but I will start a new thread on that just for the fun of it. Sounds like we got all and some more in one hunk of Biplane! Now I'm really motivated to get mine done. [8D]