soldering
#3
My Feedback: (29)
RE: soldering
I like to have a solder clevis on the servo side and the threaded end at the control surface. I'm not a big fan of the brass threaded couplers. Although I personally have not had one fail, IMO for my applications I just don't trust brass as a puchrod material.
Now the big question for me is how does one deem his solder joint acceptable? I have seen some really bad soldering.
Now the big question for me is how does one deem his solder joint acceptable? I have seen some really bad soldering.
#5
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RE: soldering
ORIGINAL: speedracerntrixie
Now the big question for me is how does one deem his solder joint acceptable? I have seen some really bad soldering.
Now the big question for me is how does one deem his solder joint acceptable? I have seen some really bad soldering.
If you heat the solder from the iron and have a cold part you will NOT have a decent solder joint.
#6
RE: soldering
ORIGINAL: ckreef
I would heat each part individually and ''tin'' them with a little bit of solder. Then heat both parts at the same time and once the solder is melting join the 2 parts together. You can add a little more solder if needed but never heat the solder. Always heat the parts and touch the solder to the parts. If the solder melts and flows because of the heat from the parts you will have a good joint.
If you heat the solder from the iron and have a cold part you will NOT have a decent solder joint.
ORIGINAL: speedracerntrixie
Now the big question for me is how does one deem his solder joint acceptable? I have seen some really bad soldering.
Now the big question for me is how does one deem his solder joint acceptable? I have seen some really bad soldering.
If you heat the solder from the iron and have a cold part you will NOT have a decent solder joint.
This is very true, the hot parts must melt the solder. If the two parts are not hot enough to melt the solder, you will have a "COLD" solder joint and it will fail.
Its good to practice at this, you should know when you start to getting it right.
sticks
#7
My Feedback: (29)
RE: soldering
ORIGINAL: ckreef
I would heat each part individually and "tin" them with a little bit of solder. Then heat both parts at the same time and once the solder is melting join the 2 parts together. You can add a little more solder if needed but never heat the solder. Always heat the parts and touch the solder to the parts. If the solder melts and flows because of the heat from the parts you will have a good joint.
If you heat the solder from the iron and have a cold part you will NOT have a decent solder joint.
ORIGINAL: speedracerntrixie
Now the big question for me is how does one deem his solder joint acceptable? I have seen some really bad soldering.
Now the big question for me is how does one deem his solder joint acceptable? I have seen some really bad soldering.
If you heat the solder from the iron and have a cold part you will NOT have a decent solder joint.
#8
Banned
RE: soldering
Let's see if I can make this work this time.
Flux is intended to keep the base material from oxidizing, when heat is applied, to allow the solder to attach properly. Once the base is tinned, further flux should not be necessary.
Les
Flux is intended to keep the base material from oxidizing, when heat is applied, to allow the solder to attach properly. Once the base is tinned, further flux should not be necessary.
Les
#9
My Feedback: (29)
RE: soldering
You are mostly correct, the second flux application will aid in heat transfer and will clean any oxides from the tinning. You would be amazed how quickly a tinned surface starts to oxidize. Give it a try, you will find that the solder flows much better and you will get a better sheen to it.
#10
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RE: soldering
When rigging an aircraft, are solder on clevis's on the control linkage a safe bet?
Solder can break loose. I never solder control surface pushrods. Zee bend at the servo end, nylon clevis at the other end.
Ed S
#11
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RE: soldering
I use solder connections on linkages for 3d planes all the time and they have never failed me. proper preparation and proper procedure make good connections. zbends make bad connections for 3d linkages because they can auger out the control horn too much during use and cause flutter. z bends are ok for trainers and planes with standard size control surfaces.