TechyJoe

LONGBOARDT3
If you are looking to purchase an RC surfer, this is where I purchased mine.US $39.99
http://www.1wholesaler.com/wholesale...x?ProductID=74

vespageoff

hi all   just getting into rc surfing , can anyone advise me of any support for these in the uk . ie replacement parts   need  a better rudder  and </p>

would like to change the figure . love this site. keep posting inf for us brits</p>

TechyJoe

jocktime

thanks for the information. I have two questions for youstill:
1) How much weight should I add? I will be surfing in NJ - waves are approx. 3 feet on average
2) Where did you get the cool surf "dude"? I'm not sure I like the Lisa figure.

Thanks

LONGBOARDT3

thanks thanks thanks friend TechyJoe
tonight I won a smooth rc surfer at a good price .... occasionally pass through the forum for help as a good rookie.
a greeting from Spain and thanks again

pd: forgiveness for my writing but I use a translator

TechyJoe

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">OK SURFN EXPERTS

</p></span></p>

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">I have been reading a lot of the posts on this thread and I need to know WHAT THE DEAL IS with the ESCs.  I see many posts where builders are using huge 60-100amp ESCs. 

</p></span></p>

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">I mostly fly planes which swing a 10x6 inch prop using brushless and never come close to 60 or 100amps.  Now this is my first boat so maybe I know nothing or am missing something here. But I know the prop is small and should draw little current (at least out of water). 

</p></span></p>

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">So, to test, I connected my new EZ-Run 540 brushless to my 18amp ESC and then connected this to an amp meter and measured the current.  To represent a load on the motor (prop in water)  I wore a glove and placed pressure on the motor shaft with my finger to the extent of almost stopping the motor at full throttle and never broke 5 amps. 

</p></span></p>

<span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">So, why the large large ESCs??????????? 

</p></span></p>

</p>

jocktime

<div>On my two Board Sharks
I run a 40 amp waterproof and water cooled ESC with a 2900kv brushless on one,
and 100 amp waterproof and water cooled ESC with a 3600kv brushless on the other.
The 40 amp is run on 7 cell 4600mAh battery.
The 100 amp is run on 7 cell 5000mAh battery.
Reason, I run large 7 cell batteries for long run times.
But, I have had trouble with small amp ESC's over heating
with these batteries. Through experimentation the 40 amp is fine
and the 100 a bit over kill. Once you get yours built and running
well, the next thing you'll want is run time. Staying out 45 minutes
instead of 15 minutes is huge in the fun part.
(Photos of our prototypes Yellow Mon and Stretch totally
hand made from scratch many hours of shaping) jocktime</div>

LONGBOARDT3

jocktime......Potos and have the construction process?

when one familiar with the subject at home .. I make a longboard surfer rc
thankyou

toyguy

I also would like to go brushless with my surfer lisa. I would like to go with an aquacraft motor and speed control from an sv 27. But I thought you had to use more then the 7 cell nimh packs to power these brushless setups. Am I wrong on this-can I go with just 7 cells?

TechyJoe

toyguy
<span style="font-size: 9pt; font-family: 'Arial','sans-serif'">You will probably need to go to 11.1v 3 cell Lipo packs. I just completed my brushless installation and tried to run it with the 6 cell Nicad that came with it and it just can't turn the motor. My guess is if you go with a sensored brushless motor as apposed to a sensor less brushless motor, a 6-7 cell nicad may work.<o></o></span>

TechyJoe

Ok, here are some pictures of myfinished surfer

Simulcaster

My Feedback: (2)

Joe,
Looks cool. I will suggest checking out Lead Tape form your local golf shop. It is a much thinner but also more pliable so you can wrap it along the keel. you will need a few extra strips but it will be more aqua-dynamic. I wiould love to read some specifics on your motor/battery set up and runtimes.

Glad to see RC surfing making a comeback.

Simulcaster

My Feedback: (2)

Jock,
Have you had any issues with the rudder push/pull being too tight going to the port side? I have tried every adjustment possible between the servo but it has plenty of direction to go starboard but port it binds up. In short, it turns right (frontside) great but left (backside) it is much wider.

LONGBOARDT3

hi to all .. I need help!
the first attempt at surfing .... deadly!
enters some water and I do not know where.
-maybe the rubber seal on the cover?
-board locking screws?
I've seen some wear rubber gaskets which brings different "lisa"

some of you it has happened?

Help please

TechyJoe

<p class="MsoNormal" style="margin: 0in 0in 10pt"><span style="font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: "><font size="2">LONBOARDT3

Ah, I too have just performed my second "Surf" test and found some leaking. </font></span></p>

<span style="font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: "><font size="2">Is your water located in your motor compartment or in the hull? </font></span></p>

<span style="font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: "><font size="2">Sorryfor the long winded response:</font></span></p>

<span style="font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: "><font size="2">I had a small amount of water inmy motor compartment and a larger amount in the hull. I found the water in the hull is coming from a small leak at the front tip of the board along the line where the two halfs of the board have been glued together. I am going to seal this and cover the front tip with some epoxy or Fiberglassresin. Hopefully this will seal the leak and also re-enforce the tip of the board.

In my opinion, these are the areas where water can be coming in:
1) The rudder
2) The motor shaft
3) The deck screws
4) The on/off switch <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"></span>

Some things I am going to try to fixpotential leak areas:

1) I am lining all potential seal type leak areaswith Vaseline. Including the rudder shaft, the motor shaftand all seals and rubber gommets.
2) Some of myrubber grommets are also loose. I am going to either epoxy glue or caulk these back in place
</font></span><span style="font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: "><font size="2">3) Seal the switch up with caulk<br style="mso-special-character: line-break" />
Note also that the deck screw thread holeswhich go into the hull are not sealed off from the hull - they go righ into the hull area. So, if water is getting into the hull and your board tips over, this water can go right into your motor compartment because there are no rubber gommets on the inside of the board. I was thinking of wrapping the these deck screws with plumbers tape.<br style="mso-special-character: line-break" /></font></span>
<span style="font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: "><font size="2">I have a few other ideas here to check for leaks (I am trying this tonight):</font></span></p>

<span style="font-size: 9pt; line-height: 115%; font-family: "><font size="2">I was thinking that if you remove the water cooling hose from the motor coil to allow air into the compartment, then seal everything up, and blow air into the water intake on the bottom of the hull while semi submersing the board <span style="mso-spacerun: yes"></span>under water (in a tub), you should see air bubbles where the air is escaping.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>This should identify potential problem areas.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes"> </span>Note: you will probably need to put a finger over the water output port.</font></span></p>

</p>

LONGBOARDT3

<table id="texttable"> <tbody> <tr valign="top"> <td id="gap"></td> <td class="almost_half_cell"> <div id="result_box" dir="ltr" style="text-align: left">thanks for your quick reply mate.
Water only comes into the engine compartment
I entered the pool in the rc surfer "lisa"and bubbles came out for two zone .I think that the problem of the rubber gasket.
another rubber gasket can use other than the no original?
other material?
thank you very much again
</div> </td> </tr> </tbody></table>

jocktime

The rubber seal on the Lisa is crap, they always leak. You need to reinforce the deck lid and use lots of spunges.
Once again, the board shark is much better, it has 5 deck screws instead of 4 and a much better gasket system.
All my Lisa's leaked and all the board sharks bone dry and that is critical. I don't mean to push the board shark,
but I have had many Lisa's and their is to many problems with them leaking. Eliminate the on and off switch and
put the antena through the hull and not the lid then reinforce the lid. I'll put photo's in next post.........jock

LONGBOARDT3

thanks for the reply friend jocktime.
directly then I forget to flip the board .... which I then .. what is the board tiburon .. remove the switch .. ok ... but I do not understand what the antenna through the hull and to reinforce the lid.
thank you very much and looking forward to those photos

LONGBOARDT3

where you can buy online only surfer doll? is broken by the knees and end soon.
or can I fix it?

sorry so many questions as I am newbie and my English but use a translator

TechyJoe

<span style="font-size: 9pt; font-family: ">Some More Lisa Info</span><span style="font-size: 9pt; font-family: ">

<span style="font-family: ">Leaks</span>
</span><span style="font-size: 9pt; font-family: ">My leaks are coming in from the deck screws.
I fixed these and any possible leaks in the deck seal with a thick coat of Vaseline. Its messy but it works!

<span style="font-family: ">Current Draw</span>
I performed some more current tests - this time in water (tub).
I was surprised to see that the motor in water drew about 10-12 amps at approx. full throttle

<span style="font-family: ">Run Time Calculations</span>
I am using a 2200mah 3 cell Lipo pack

So, this battery can deliver 2.2amps for 1 hour so my calculated run time at full throttle is:
2.2amp/h / 10amp = 4.54h
1 hour = 60 minutes
so 4.54 / 60m = 13 minutes.

I predict about a 15-20 minute run time on this motor and battery based on normal use (not full throttle all of the time).

By the way, the brushless motor kicks butt....... This thing isa far cry from the stock motor which could barely get out of it own way.
</span>

</p></p>


I hope some of this information is helpful.</p>

TechyJoe

Oh, one more thing

I am purchasing a new water cooled ESC.
Even though the motor doesn't draw large amounts of current, it gets no air to cool it down so my 18amp ESC gets hot and shuts off.

I have purchased:ETTI @ 45A Water-cooled Brushless ESC 6-16 cells BEC

Waiting for it to arrive.

jocktime

TechyJoe,
Good call on the ESC, that will help your run time.
jocktime

LONGBOARDT3

<div id="result_box" dir="ltr" style="text-align: left">where are you all? ....surfing? </div>

TechyJoe

 <span style="FONT-SIZE: 9pt; LINE-HEIGHT: 115%; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial","sans-serif"">Coast of New Jersey - for me

Trying to make Surf-N Lisa as ocean resistant as possible. 

</p></span>

LONGBOARDT3

no longer do that!...... water is still entering the rubber gasket from the lid
someone has the seal of the lid? I do not know what to do..

surfcurls

there is deck seals for these surfers on ebay They work awesome.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=180342424618