nitro fuel mix with after oil
#1
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this is a stupid question I want to ask, I want to know is there any nitro fuel mix with after oil, because I heard someone said sidewinder fuel is the fuel mix with after oil
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thank you everyone this what I heard from ndrcc nitro fuel company, I think sidewinder they mix with castor oil it should protect our engine without using after run oil
The oil used in the fuel plays a big part in protecting the engine from the moisture and preventing rust long term and short term.
Many fuels list what they use in their fuels, many use a synthetic oil and this oil simply allows the motor to run more RPM’s than a castor based oil will do. Castor is a thicker oil and is a natural oil and will protect the motor (long term) better than a synthetic fuel. IF the motor is running a lot where it does not have time to ever be dry from a synthetic fuel then synthetic fuel may be ok to run with no issues.
Castor being a natural lubricant (hey, this stuff comes from beans!) is thicker and will leave residue all over the motor and will protect it while in storage helping to prevent rust.
So, I decided that I would want a fuel that had castor to beat the rust but also wanted a synthetic fuel that would loosen up the mixture so I could produce the RPM range I was looking for.
Lets look at some of the fuel tested here (Percentages based on volume)
Cool Power 2 cycle fuel.
15% Nitro / 20% oil (10% low viscosity, 10% high viscosity)
Cool Power 4 cycle fuel
15% Nitro / 18% oil (9% low viscosity, 9% high viscosity)
Cool Power 4 cycle fuel (Castor Based)
15% Nitro / 18% oil (9% Castor, 9% Synthetic)
Rich’s Brew 2 cycle fuel
15% Nitro / 22% oil (Known as the 11-11).
The goal was to use a like brand to determine the best RPM and change the oil content. And with the findings, the Cool Power 15% 4 Cycle 100% synthetic has proven to provide the most RPM and power however, running this fuel comes at a cost. Back to the rust issue. (NOTE: This is on a 4-cycle engine, for a 2 cycle; you would want the 20% oil).
Running a fuel that is 100% synthetic can prevent rust in a short term period however, my feeling and understanding is that the castor would assist in preventing rust. So, how can you run the best fuel and get away from the worry of rust?
If you run a fuel with Castor, probably nothing to worry about here.
If you run a fuel without castor you should use after run oil.
If you read a label on the Cool Power (this was amazing to me) it states on the bottle of fuel that “After Run oil not required”. After all I had read through and understand, this was somewhat of a mystery to me. How can you run 100% synthetic fuel and not have to use after run oil? They attribute this to their low viscosity synthetic fuel from what I gather reading their fuel information online at Morgan Fuels.
In short, use my recommendation as this is based on what I know to be the best for me. But, if you’re running a fuel and it does good for you then this is the fuel for you. If it runs good use it.
In my opinion all fuel is about the same, different manufacturers are the difference in the production of fuel. I personally like cool power however, another brand with the same mix would probably run the same.
The oil used in the fuel plays a big part in protecting the engine from the moisture and preventing rust long term and short term.
Many fuels list what they use in their fuels, many use a synthetic oil and this oil simply allows the motor to run more RPM’s than a castor based oil will do. Castor is a thicker oil and is a natural oil and will protect the motor (long term) better than a synthetic fuel. IF the motor is running a lot where it does not have time to ever be dry from a synthetic fuel then synthetic fuel may be ok to run with no issues.
Castor being a natural lubricant (hey, this stuff comes from beans!) is thicker and will leave residue all over the motor and will protect it while in storage helping to prevent rust.
So, I decided that I would want a fuel that had castor to beat the rust but also wanted a synthetic fuel that would loosen up the mixture so I could produce the RPM range I was looking for.
Lets look at some of the fuel tested here (Percentages based on volume)
Cool Power 2 cycle fuel.
15% Nitro / 20% oil (10% low viscosity, 10% high viscosity)
Cool Power 4 cycle fuel
15% Nitro / 18% oil (9% low viscosity, 9% high viscosity)
Cool Power 4 cycle fuel (Castor Based)
15% Nitro / 18% oil (9% Castor, 9% Synthetic)
Rich’s Brew 2 cycle fuel
15% Nitro / 22% oil (Known as the 11-11).
The goal was to use a like brand to determine the best RPM and change the oil content. And with the findings, the Cool Power 15% 4 Cycle 100% synthetic has proven to provide the most RPM and power however, running this fuel comes at a cost. Back to the rust issue. (NOTE: This is on a 4-cycle engine, for a 2 cycle; you would want the 20% oil).
Running a fuel that is 100% synthetic can prevent rust in a short term period however, my feeling and understanding is that the castor would assist in preventing rust. So, how can you run the best fuel and get away from the worry of rust?
If you run a fuel with Castor, probably nothing to worry about here.
If you run a fuel without castor you should use after run oil.
If you read a label on the Cool Power (this was amazing to me) it states on the bottle of fuel that “After Run oil not required”. After all I had read through and understand, this was somewhat of a mystery to me. How can you run 100% synthetic fuel and not have to use after run oil? They attribute this to their low viscosity synthetic fuel from what I gather reading their fuel information online at Morgan Fuels.
In short, use my recommendation as this is based on what I know to be the best for me. But, if you’re running a fuel and it does good for you then this is the fuel for you. If it runs good use it.
In my opinion all fuel is about the same, different manufacturers are the difference in the production of fuel. I personally like cool power however, another brand with the same mix would probably run the same.