donandmax

My Feedback: (2)

Does anyone have a suggestion how to power the myrtle corey other than the brass pushrods that Dumas suggest ? I have about given up on their system can't get it to work even after following their instructions to the letter. All I get is bent push rods and a paddle wheel that goes forward then reverse. Thepush rods bow up and I've never seen such a mess in my life. I have a pulley that came with the Dumas motor but no pulley for the paddle wheel. And will the wheel work on just one pulley or do I need something else. Like I said I followed the instructions to the letter for setting up the cranks but this is the worst propulsion system I have ever seen . By the way this Dumas kit is not for the "faint of heart" it is difficult and the plans and instruction many times do not match up as far as measurements and photo diagram numbers go. This kit as far as I'm concerned is for the advanced builder not beginner or intermediate builder. This is without question the most difficult kit I have ever built and now that construction has ended (thank God) I have more problems setting it up to run. No more Dumas kits for me. The Creole Queen wasnt this difficult. DUMAS DO SOMETHING ABOUT ANOTHER POWER SYSTEM!!!!.
Thanks in advance for any help..
Don

pompebled

Hi Don,

Could you show us some pictures of the 'trouble' area, maybe somebody sees something, which may let you run it as intentioned...

Regards, Jan.

ISR

Your rirht....dump the push rods and go with a pulley/belt system. I used 1" O.D. pulleys with 1/8" round belts x 8" I.D. Runs smooth as silk!

I think, only a one pulley drive would be too much of a strain on things. I used two pulleys ( 4-total, 2-motor, 2-paddle wheel )

You'll have to get a 3/16" and 1/4" steel rod ( hopefully at your local hardwear store ) as both the motor and paddle wheel drive shafts will be too short.

I got my pulleys and belts from SDP/SI

http://www.sdp-si.com/

If you can email me, I'll send you some pictures of my drive system and the info on the pullys and belts.

ISR ( I have some photos of my Myrtle Corey posted in my gallery.

[email protected]

LtDoc

Don,
Just started on my 'M.C.'. And after the thread about the drive system being a 'dud', I have noticed that the 'crank' arms for the paddlewheel and the motor are off-set 90 degrees. After thinking about it, that makes a lot of sense, rather than 180 degrees. One of the two push rods will always be in a 'Pull' state (if that makes sense), top dead center/bottom dead center stalls are much less likely than with a '0' or 180 degree off-set.
Nothing wrong with a belt drive, just not as 'scale' sort of. Whatever 'grabs' you.
And the best advice is to read ahead! Some of the 'scale' or life sized drawings are NOT accurate (as I've found out). Have fun.
- 'Doc

ISR

Doc

The push/pull system on this boat is very difficult (if even possibel) to get the "clunk, clunk" out of! It hesitates at top/bottom dead center and is a "pain". You'll be going with the pulley/belt system if you want a smooth running wheel! If your building it to sit on the "mantel" fine, but if it's for fun and to run in the water, go with pulley/belt system!

Also...the Texas House on the top roof makes the boat top heavy and it will tip over very easy. So be watchful for that!!!!!

ISR

LtDoc

I've heard about the 'top heavy' thingy before, but it certainly doesn't hurt to be reminded of it! I'm thinking about some modifications to that pilot house, or just may leave it off. Also plan to make the main deck house removable, so later modifications to the drive system will be easier. I realize the drive system may be sort of 'clunky', but I gotta see it, you know?
- 'Doc