stackeddeck

I'm trying to connect the engine mount to my zenG260 for my easy vee. However, I'm having some difficulty. First, will Ihave to take off the starter pull cord thing to put the mount on ( Ifigured out the one where there is the collet and all)i think I need to so I took it off. Then there were 3 big screws that matched the mount. The 3 screws wouldn't come off and were starting to strip. The black starter box thing had 4 screw holes to hold it on to the engine and the mount had the same 4 holes so I screwed the mount with those 4 holes. It is now under the starter box but there is a problem. It made a space between the starter and the engine so now when I pull the cord it is really easy and feels like it isnt turning the engine. Is this right? Thanks for thehelp If I must I can take pictures!

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Pictures would really help.
It sounds like you've got the pull starter mounted correctly as it shouldn't engage until you start pulling the rope. It may take a few inches of rope to get it to engage as it may take 1/2 turn or more for it to hook up.

chief3452

If the 3 big screws are used to attach a square 1/4 plate to the front of your engine, they will have to come out to remove that plate. Once it's off the mount will go on and you will reuse those 3 screws to attach it to your engine. If you leave that thick plate on your starter cogs will not engage as they will be too far away from the crankshaft. Hope this helps.

Tidnab

My Feedback: (51)

Stackeddeck,Don't feel too bad I stripped the screws on my 260 too.I started with a philips head screw driver and couldn't get them loose,so I tried my 18volt drill and stripped a couple of them.I then tried a philips tip and used a small wrench on it and snapped the head off that one.I'll probably have to take it to a machine shop and get them drilled out and rethreaded or get an airplane cylinder,prop hub,and take the recoil started off and turn it into an airplane engine.I wondered why they were so tight.Thought maybe they put something on them at the factury.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

If the screws were Lock-tited then you might have to heat up the case around the screws to get them to break loose.

stackeddeck

Hey thanks guys! Chief, I believe you are right. The big square mount needs to come off to make the starter touch the engine. I do believe they are lock tited... I heated one then used a drill and got it out... (after I tried a philips head screw driver) The other 2 are miserably stripped... nothing could make them budge.. I believe my new problem is getting the stripped screws out. There is no was I can reuse them now so I just need to get them out. They are stripped extremely bad.. I'm stupid and tried the drill after they were stripped which tore them up. I can not get any traction now.

pics coming in a few minutes

stackeddeck

Hey guys here are pics... i think that square mount should come off. You can see how bad the screws are stripped and wats going on now. Also, does anyone know what those silver screws pictured are? They are not to hold the starter on or the mount because Ihave those...

Thanks in advance

Stacked

btw black around screws is where I heated with lighter

mymammushouse

on the smaller mount, the linkage arm goes in front of the mount, not behind it

get rid of the square mount, the regular mount will do/take its place

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

You're right, that rectangular piece comes off then you bolt the bracket on in it's place. If all else fails, you can get mounting brackets that will bolt onto the plate.
Seeing how the bolts are already shot, you can try something else. Get out the Dremel with a cut-off wheel and cut slots in the bolts so that you might be able to remove them with a screwdriver.

stackeddeck

mymammushouse, What do you mean the linkage arm goes in front?

Thanks ron I will go try to make some slots with the dremel.

rcguy1411

try an easy out if you dont have one go to a local garage give the guy $ 10.00 and your done

stackeddeck

thanks guys. I plan on checking with our local gas station mechanic.

dicko

Here's a simple way to get those screws out in future.

- Use the screwdriver/sparkplug spanner that came with the engine
- Place the engine firmly between your legs with the plate facing upwards
- Put the screwdriver into one of the screw slots & give it a good WACK with a hammer - this cracks the thread lock & seats the screwdriver into the screw.
- Unscew the screw from the back plate.

I used to have all sorts of issues getting those plates off until I was told this trick by an engine modder. It has wroked every time since.

If you use a dremmel & scut off wheel as Ron said you still may be able to use this trick.

Cheers
Jason

stackeddeck

Dicko, thanks I will try that and would have used my dremel. But of course with my luck I fried it... I think I knicked the cord because I can see the wires... then when cutting some wood it just stopped working...dunno what to do... i'm just having some streaks of misfortune..

srw1960

OK dude lets tackle the biggest problem...you said you nicked the cord on the dremel and soon after it quit???is that right??? ok you gotta have a dremel to build a boat..so lets fix it safe to say the wires was cut enough that it lasted a bit and then let loose. sooo use a sharp knife and cut through the black insulation on the cord MAKE SURE ITS UNPLUGGED..cut an inch above the nick and an inch behind it. carefull not to nick the wires when doing this..remove the black insulation then you can see the wire that got cut..strip a half an inch off each piece and twist the metal wire back together tightly..wrap that with black electrical tape and then wrap the entire area with electrical tape..then plug it in and I bet it runs fine....

Now take the repaired dremel and put in the cutting wheel and cut a slot into the head of the 2 screws on the plate cut as deep as you can if you nick that plate its ok it gets disposed of....now do like Dicko said and put it between your legs put the slot screwdriver into the cut you made and smack it good with a hammer then turn the screw out it should come right out the heat from the dremel work will loosen up the loctight real well.....
those extra bolts are to fasten the new motor mount on with... the flat heads will replace the screws you stripped....

Ok NEXT??????

stackeddeck

will wait on dad before I start splicing dremel cords   I shouldn't need it much more for this boat though. I will get it fixed no matter what anyway

Hydro Junkie

On the Dremel, play it safe and just buy a new cord. If you don't want to open it up, have someone else do it. Otherwise, you can send it to Dremel and for around $30, they will fix anything that needs fixing and send it back or send you a refurbished one

stackeddeck

thanks hydro. I tried re twisted wires together... did a pretty good job in my opinion but still no power... prolly will have to send it off..