SyCo_VeNoM

cool

I just took apart my electric MT1... or I should say I did what is necessary to adjust the pinion's spacing... it took me taking out 26 screws, 2 chassis braces, 3 spacers(2 of which needed pliers shoved in), removing the battery box, removing all the electronics, and removing 2 driveshafts JUST to get to the pinion adjustment screw that came loose. This is another of the main reason's I'm redoing it outside gearing lol
Next version to change the spur gear will be 8 screws to remove mainly due to the braces (it if wasn't for them it would be 4) which will be straight forward to install/remove, and 2 screws to take the motor out, or adjust the pinion spacing, and the electronics will stay in place as they were. out of that massive base plate that the stuff mounted to.all I'm keeping is the spacing for the servo.

I got black PLA+ in this week so it will look way nicer then the old stuff I was using when I print the final part after testing. Still going to use the old stuff for testing purposes though. or I could make it glow in the dark as I also got a spool of glow in the dark


Also think I found out why it was getting the motor so hot I did something stupid that I only noticed when I did a complete tear down. When I put a ziptie on the brace to hold the capacitor bank for the ESC down I accidentally put it around the driveshaft, and the zip tie was putting force on that. I'm shocked the ziptie didn't melt from the friction. Just another reason why the super complicated way I did it was kinda not good. Makes me feel like an automotive engineer designing modern cars that are overly complicated for no reason, and impossible to work on without taking out a stupid amount of things..

SyCo_VeNoM

took the pede out today with HPI blitz tires on it. After 15-20 mins of driving it where at least 70% of the time was full throttle the motor hit the grand temperature of 124 degrees. Then again it was around 70(maybe a little lower) out just now, and the sun was mostly set. So I'll probably put back on the other tires as it was most likely the ambient heat, and sun that contributed to the motor getting near the borderline of burning up

suburban_hooligan

i would have though a zip tie around a driveshaft would cause noticeable driveline friction
which reminds me i need to take a look at why the driveline in one of my Dromida's is to tight.

SyCo_VeNoM

hmm I thought it would cause enough friction to melt the zip tie to be honest there was barely a mark on it. Well I also didn't zip tie it down to max force as I didn't need to I just needed it to hold it to the double sided tape which was keeping it from slipping so honestly I'm not sure if it did or didn't play a part in the motors temps..



Well too a break today from working on the redo of the MT1 to work on a different project which I kinda forgot about for 6 years which is my 6wd deuce, and a half which is made from axial, and wheely king parts(I started on it like 10 years ago) I finally got around to designing the bed of it now to print it. Had to break it up into 4 parts, and those parts are estimated by the 3d slicer that they are going to take a total of around 80 hours
I'll try to get it done in 2 days running 2 of my printers non-stop

Mechanically the thing runs great, and its pretty bullet proof the only thing is I just never finished the body.

I'll probably continue the design though of the motor mount for the E-MT1 as I ran into a slight issue I worked around, but it kinda makes the mount not look that good, and makes it a little convoluted to make, but I'm still going for least amount of screws as possible to make adjustments, or take stuff off.

suburban_hooligan

80 hours to print 4 parts. is that all 4 at the same time or printing one at a time? you run that continuously or can you shut it off for a few hours and pick up where it left off? id be leery of leaving something like that running over night while i was asleep.

SyCo_VeNoM

parts are one at a time like the 1st part has been going 7 hours, and says it has 18 left(the estimations are generally way off)

I was planning to run 2 of my 3 printers, but the 2nd one is down. Few months back the software that controls it storage died, and I had to reinstall the software, and it has been acting up since. I spent 5-6 hours messing with it to try and get it to work, and I FINALLY found out why(they changed something from automatic to manually having to be done, and I had no idea I also damaged its $16 print surface that I JUST replaced...), but it will take a few more hours of tinkering to get it working right.

As for your idea about turning it off and continuing later. There are 2 sets of firmware ppl generally use for 3d printers. The one named Marlin DOES have that feature, but it doesn't always work that good. I on the other hand use what is called klipper which runs a bit different, and has a lot of customization, and modding for it( as well as a web interface that I can upload stuff remotely to the printer), and to my knowledge turning it off, and continuing isn't supported.

3rd printer is kinda down as I need a new print surface for it I had a glass one, but it kinda cracked after 3 or so years of use. I wasn't too happy with it anyways so meh. But yea I only use that one for smaller things as it has a somewhat slightly smaller print bed, and is kinda loud. It was also my 1st printer, and has been modded to the point that I think 80% of it was changed.

As for how safe it is... honestly if the firmwares safety settings are set right it is pretty safe. Unlike when my 1st printer was stock, and on stock firmware the company that made it had every safety setting disabled, and the printer almost started on fire as it was doing thermal runaway(it DID melt a bunch of wires) due to them stupidly using a crappy connector on the print bed. The firmware I run now is set to kill power if anything goes up by a few degrees, or if a sensor stops sending data.
For example I've heard people run 1-200 printers 24/7 making parts, and never heard of them having a fire.

SyCo_VeNoM

so the 1st part finished printing, and... I made a mistake in a measurement making it unusable(front tire mus guard thing slams into the tire), but also holding it near the truck itself kinda makes it look odd like I based it on a 3d model of a deuce and a half I found lifting all the measurements, but when held upto the cab in reality it just looks weird.something it didn't look in the cad software.
Think I'm going to drastically change how it is made, and make it more modular so I can say add a canvas top, or swap to an open design with railing like I see so many pics of the real thing have. On the plus side it should DRASTICALLY cut down on the print time as there is less initially to print, and I'm also scaling it so the pieces will be thinner, and when I do print the rails I can print them easier then it would be with it in one piece

Edit: Ok fixing that took way longer then I expected. In all honesty didn't change the scale of the parts much I did make them more uniform, and fixed their spacing, and made it even more modular to print.
Now the bed will take around 50 hours total to print this is over 20 hours less then the prior one. Before it was broken into quarters not it is only split in half. Also I'm glad I redid quite a bit as the tailgate wouldn't have worked as I had the hinge geometry wrong, now that is fixed. Also made the mudflaps to 4 more parts that have to be screwed on that alone cut down on 6 hours as it no longer needs to support them while printing sure it adds 8 screws but meh. Now to start printing this thing lol.

SyCo_VeNoM

today tried cleaning up the cab by sanding the imperfections and filler down for my deuce and a half scaler that I made 6 years ago as I started, and never finished... honestly I it is way too rough, and not worth fixing I say that after spending 15 mins with a belt sander trying to get the parts smooth.. the original one was printed in 9 pieces, and held together by a crapton of jb weld which I also used as a sudo bondo to smooth some of the extremely rough layer lines, and to try and make the parts fit together. I think I'm going to reprint it from scratch, and assembled the parts in cad, and cut it up differently then the original designer did so it is 2 big parts(and 5 smaller parts the original 9 didn't count the small parts too) now instead of how it was originally cut up into 12 parts(I merged 6 prior to printing it initially years ago).
The 1st half of the bed has 7 hours left(according to estimates) as I type, I already printed the mudflaps, and tailgate on my other printer, and am printing the rails.
As for the scale aspect it is like 15% wider one to fit the tires