gogita502

My Feedback: (1)

i heard the sprint motor

Girn

is this the sprint motor ur speaking of? http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXETG0&P=7 and how much faster will it be then stock? and is there any other motors that would fit?

Girn

ok I kinda ran it through a small puddle about 2 inches deep and now its messing up.. sometimes it receives commands sometimes it doesnt.. im thinking I just need to let all the moisture dry on the parts.. I already used a blow dryer but I think I still need to wait till its all dry.. hopefully its not broken.. I accidently went into the puddle because im not fully use to using the controller with the wheel... im just use to the ones that are like a joystick.

Evader 53

Yeah, well thats why you should try and stay out of water, open up all enclosed parts and bow dry everything...besides esc and motor, and put the car upside down for the night

Girn

ya I tried.. i opend it all up again and blow dryed but I guess ill leave it upside down for the night.. it seems it just looses reception then I have to go like 2 feet close to it before it starts moving again.. like Ill go drive it around and itll just die.. then I just move close to it and it works.. weird

J_D

so how long did it last?.... i gave it two weeks, looks like it only lasted a few days [&:]

Girn

not dead yet lol.. itll be fixed when all the water evaporates

J_D

... if you say so....

Girn

ok its fixed.. anyways im ready to buy a new motor now, it has to be off towerhobbies.. what kind should I get? and will I need any other new parts to run the motor?

J_D

buying buying buying.. lol

shoulda just bought a TL-01 or something.

but I'll stop annoying ya,

hey whos that chic in ur video, that u can hear.

Girn

my sister.........................

Girn

im thinking of buying this motor http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGE34&P=7 will this work with my car? and will I see much difference in power? also at the ends of the red and black wires are these connetor pins sorta.. dont know what u call them.. but im my car the 2 wires are soldiered onto the circuit chip.. will I be able to just remove them and soldier it on? thanks for ur help

Girn

bump

jakjr

My Feedback: (18)

You might as well not bother trying to put a faster motor in it. You MIGHT be able to get a faster one to work in it, but it's basically a 50/50 chance that it will just fry its circuit board, then you'll have a completely dead car. Besides that, I doubt it uses a 540 motor like the hobby grade cars do.

If it's not fast enough for you, I would suggest saving your money and buying a hobby grade car instead of trying to make a RS car something that it is not.

Nitrofreak_105

ok. Dont order off tower. go to www.greathobbies.com . they are based in canada, less shipping, no customs. other than that, i know nothin about electrics

hope that helps

Malcolm

Hpi_mt2

Just wonderin but, shouldn't you have bevel gears in your diff case to let some strain off when your turning or is that something to do with drifting...

Hpi_mt2

Nevermind I just saw that it was a R.S. car...

J_D

yea, a new more powerful motor, will just fry your ESC.

dannthenitroman

sorry but if ud judt listened to the guyds here you wouldnt be frying a new car , youd have a fast one already

Dann

Girn

man shut the hell up

Platinum_Racing

LEAVE HIM ALONE!!!!!!!!

-HE-

-DOESN'T-

-CARE-

You can't really put in a new motor because the pinion is probably one piece on the armature. If the holes line up, then you may be in buisness. Just don't run a mod motor, or even a 27T stocker. The increased timing in the motor makes them consume a lot of current, so the best way to go would probably be with one of those Tamiya RS motors (Made by Mabuchi). Johnson motors last a very long time and get insane runtime. If you have a 380 motor now then the 540 may work, but you have to keep an eye on the tempuratures of that reciver/speedo thing (I doubt that it came with an ESC.).


In OUR world the motors are catagorized into specific classes. There is the stock class, which ROAR (Remotely Operated Auto Racers) designates as a 27 turn single. This is determined by 27 windings around the armature, and a single piece of wire. The timing is locked at 24° and they are all forced to run bushings instead of bearings. Some stockers do run 5° of locked timing, but those are only used for different sanctioned events. Some of these motors are balanced, but cheap ones aren't.

The 19T Spec class is a 19 turn single wind with ball bearing instead of bushings. They also use 24° of locked timing. I believe manufacturers can only use 2 magnets, as with stock motor's. Most are drill balanced.

A mild modified is any 15-17 turn motor with any number of windings (Single, double ect...). They have ball bearings and adjustable timing. Some motors use slightly larger commutators and larger brushes to go along with them. Drill or epoxy balancing is highly common.

Modified motors are the most extreme, with ball bearings, adjustable timing, 6-15 turn armatures and any number of windings. They can have any crown design and any number of magnets. Most have only 2, but more extreme motors have smaller magnets with more reactivity. The smaller magnets allow manufacturers to put 4 magnets in the can and promotes a more efficient electric field. Some manufacturers use twisted crowns to increase the time the magnetic field is reacting to the armature, while others use partitioned armatures. Some have small lips to promote effecient cooling, while others have holes for light weight. All modified's in this catagory are balanced, either with drill or epoxy methods. For this much money ($70-100) you better get a drill balanced armature.

Then there are the stockers your looking at. They are a far cry from the normal motors we all are used to running. The sealed can design promotes longevity and runtime, while hindering maintence and cleaning. The non replaceable brushes are mounted on non replacable springs. The springs are more like spring steel than anything else. Suprisingly, many come epoxy balanced. Windings can be anywhere from the 33 to 20 turn range. The older Johnson's were around 33, while the Traxxas Stinger is a comfortable 20T. No 20T motor of this construction will ever beat a 27T in any form of racing...mabye enduro but that's about it. They all come with conservatve timing and bushings.

The motor that is best for your application is the closed end bell stocker. They live for an extremely long time, and never have to be torn down for maintnence. It's still a good idea to clean them, but they won't wear as fast as other motor's.

I still don't know if it is even possible, take a picture of your car and send it to [email protected] so I can help you in a more civilized manner.

SqueedilySpooch

why is he posting about lesser grade cars in a hobby forum...its like talking about ur baseball team u played in forth grade in a MLB forum. What ever ur case is.. the water idea wasnt a good idea even if u already knew that any rc car regardless the grade wont fair well in water. IMO u should learn more and save up before u make dumb mistakes u take in turn to regret in the future....

bubba1215

My Feedback: (1)

yeah thats because they don't go fast enough to break anything!!! with ebay around these days you could have gotten a great deal for 150.00.


rc18mt w/mamba 8000

Platinum_Racing

My God you guys aren't getting it.

Be helpful! The guy made a desicion, respect that!

Why is he posting in this forum? It's a free country, he has a (R/C) car, and he's looking for help. Find me a Maisto forum and then send him there. The way I see it either be productive or post elsewhere. No one is forcing you to post, so either refrain yourself from posting or lend him a hand.

PillowPants

Ok... so... you refuse to buy a hobby grade r/c, yet you want hobby grade hop-ups??