GT-R V One S

Sup fellow R/C fanatics,

Just finished my Nitro about 2 days ago, It's a Kyosho V One S.
It's already been 2 days that i have tried to make my car run normally, reading anything I can about it on the net and reading the manual, but nothing seems to work.

Here's the process i've gone through so far:

1. First time got it started, it hit full throttle and shut off, happened twice, then read the manual (what i shoulda done in the first place).

2. 3rd time, got the car started, but it kept on idling too high, no matter what i did with the needle, it did absolutely nothing (Manual says to close it, then open it back up 2 full twists counter clockwise) did nothing if twisted counter clockwise, only time things changed was when i closed it more, it idles higher then shuts off.

3. After like 20 times of messing w/ the needle and idle screw the only improvement was the engine idled alittle lower but not at a constant, it would fluctuate then shut off...

What the " " is wrong with this thing?!? SO CONFUSED

If it helps any, I looked at the fuel hose and the gas looks as though it is running normally - but there is air bubbles - (not sure if thats normal), and i got the 2nd speed already installed.

Need help, so anxious!!! Just want to drive it already!!!

uuhh, sorry so long eeh

nitroman88

My Feedback: (5)

Messing with the high speed needle will not help your idle troubles at all. Did you ever take off the servo head? If you did you may need to adjust that. also make sure your trim on your radio is turned down, not up.

buyrbware

My Feedback: (2)

First, This is a new car with a new engine, It needs to be treated as such,,It will take a good two tanks of gas to set the motor (BREAK-IN) Reality, Your looking at an hour of stop & run idle fast, idle low let the engine breakin...Once this is done and done correctly you will have a great running engine...Go out and run the crap out of it before and it will never hold idle correctly!

Set the car up per the manual, run the engine at a speed slightly above idle for quite a while then advance the throttle run it there for a while...take your time and have patience all adjustments are made after breakin..right now just get it running and keep the car in one spot..let the engine run!

Tom

GT-R V One S

So does that mean, no matter what i keep the HS needle at two turns (manual instructions)? Servo head, yea ive taken it off, and put it back where it should be, i think, and i made sure the trim was turned down not up... The manual says that at neutral the throttle should be open 1mm, and also at brake, i've made sure that it was that, but still doesn't work.

GT-R V One S

Another Problem!!

I'm finding that there is gas and goop leaking from the connection between the engine and exaust pipe... Could this be the reason why my car is not idling or running right? it seems the gasket is not keeping the two together tight enough - I think, common sense, right?- I tightened it as much as possible...

What should i do to remedy this? i mean it's a brand new car w/ a brand new gasket, is there a solution anyone?

buyrbware

My Feedback: (2)

i use a silcone sealent at the muffler just like on the real cars works great

GT-R V One S

B or anyone that knows

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but how much and where should i apply the sealent? both sides of the gasket? dots of sealent or lined around it?

Thanx

cowboychris

hi there,

i also have a v one s and experienced major problems at first!
set the idle to 1mm like it says in the manual, but be patient. i managed to screw mine up by wanting too much too soon, new engines are temperamental so be calm. one thing i would definately recommend is using a sealant on the carb. cause of the plastic fixings mine wasnt air tight, and resulted in real high idleing and random reving. this works a treat and it sounds like you have simular problems. just take the carb off and apply around the rim. screw back into place and leave overnight. if you cant get it started then open the high neeedle a little and adjust the throttle so that there is more air flow. hope this helps mate, let me know how you get on.

chris

GT-R V One S

cbchris-

I'm gonna go to autozone and pick up some silicone sealant today, i actually got some last night but the guy at the store gave me some silicone (sealant) gasket maker sh**. Anyhow, i'm gonna apply the sealant to both exhaust pipe, and carb just to be safe. but...

I'm glad you told me this, right after you posted up, i looked right at the carb area and it looks as though that that is the exact spot where the leak is coming from. Couldn't tell before, anyways I'll tell you how everything goes.

Thanks for the heads up!

V one

buyrbware

My Feedback: (2)

carb has a oring, why you gonna use sealent!

GT-R V One S

Okay, Luckily I went out yesterday, so i didn't get a chance do do anything to my ride...

But I was about to apply the sealant, but I decided to read up, and see if anyone had anything else to say, hey B what type of R/C do you got, if you mind me asking? Cause I really am not sure what to do now. If i did apply sealant to the carb, would I have any issues? I mean what Chris said made sense, the carb is made of plastic, but what you say make sense also, but the leak does seem like its coming from the carb, B does the R/C you have also have a plastic carb?

Dang, just when I was confident enough in thinking that I actually had the solution....

cowboychris

hey up again,

use sealant of the carb for sure. it wont ruin anything, its easy enought to pull off! seall it up good, be patient and give it a run. im sure it will fix the problem. dont be afraid to try things, just go with it and test the results.

good luck!

cool head

i have a v1s w/ gs 15 r too, and i used a slightly thicker o-ring for the carb. have absolutly no problems with mine.

buyrbware

My Feedback: (2)

ever look inside the carb or engine. sealent pieces getting down the intake hmmmm go with the oring! thats why the manufacture put it there!

AdamB

My Feedback: (9)

My $.02 if anybody cares...

First, let me start by saying I am not familiar with the model RC car you have. However, having tuned many 2 stroke engines, airplane, heli, nitro cars and trucks, I would say only 2 turns out on high speed needle is too lean.

A too lean HS needle will automatically lean the low speed needle.

You stated only thing changed when you closed high speed needle was it idled higher before it shut off. Thats because it is getting leaner.

Ever notice your 2 stroker idles higher right before running out of gas in the tank, same theory, runs out of gas (lean), idles higher until stalls.

You have to counter clock wise you needles a bit, especially when during break in. Your engine should almost be spitting gas when breaking in.

If you have an idle, and pinch the fuel line and it shuts off without getting higher rpms, you are definitely TOO lean.

After break in, you have to get your high speed needle set, before messing with low speed or mid. If you get your low speed first, as soon as you turn your high speed needle, it effects how much nitro flows to the low speed. Hope this makes sense.

Hope this helps.

GT-R V One S

Adam,

Thanx for the info(Everyone else also!), explaining what you did helped alot, i understand the logic alot more especially when you used --

""Ever notice your 2 stroker idles higher right before running out of gas in the tank, same theory, runs out of gas (lean), idles higher until stalls.""

-- as an exapmle...

Unfortunately, I am still confused about the sealant, oring Sh**... I haven't even touched my R/C cause I wanna wait until i figure out what i should do, and wait for more opinions, or wait until I have time again to stop by the local hobbie shop and have someone help me there...

V one

GT-R V One S

I got some Silicone, but i got two kinds:

ULTRA COPPER Sensor Safe High Temperature Silicone Or
& the Red kind....

Will they both work the same?

Also, how do I apply it? Scared that it might leak inside if i apply it wrong...

V one

cowboychris

hello again,

this is what my car did and how i fixed it >

my car iddled very high and inconsidantly. when applying throttle rpm often decreased! i believe the manual to be wrong, you can run your engine rich at first so close high needle then undo about 2 3/4 turns or maybe more. prime the car correctly (cover the pipe with your finger and pull the pullstart plenty. if you over choke it dont worry just unscrew the glowplug turn car upside down and use the pullstart to eject the excess fuel. screw back in glow plug, prime it a little and try to start her up.

if no luck, try pulling pullstart faster. im assumeing idle is at about 1mm, so she should idle quite calmly. if it stalls, give it a little more throttle. if still idleing high undo high needle a little. test it and see. then repeat if neccasary.

If the engine is still reving all over the place and needle change and throttle make little difference, air is getting into the engine from somewhere else and making your adjustments inefective. the engine will suck in air where ever it can and mine was from the carb. (to be honest the silicone sealer i use just says silicone sealer on it! i got from my lhs and its a white and purple tube made by the super glue corporation) when you take the carb off you will see how it fits together and where to put the sealer. use a modest amount, you dont want it all over the place but make sure you get a good contact. do the same with the manifold engine joint to be ultra safe.

phew... i know this is a long post so i'll leave it at that. if you have any more questions id be happy to help.

best of luck

chris

Groundforce-RCU

My Feedback: (20)

Excellent response cowboychris.........
informative.

GT-R V One S

Sup fellas,

Well I finally sealed up my carb and exhaust 2 days ago and tried out my car. I fired it up A million times today(actually a tank and a half worth), and each time i fired it up, my car gave me a different response.

At times it seemed as though it started idling correctly (sorta), but then at times the dang idle would fluctuate still... But most of the time when the car did actually idle right it would only stay on only if the glow plug was connected, after i took of the glow plug off, it would stay on for about 10 seconds then shut off, including when I press the brake.

I cleaned up the whole area of the engine to see if anything was still leaking, and nothing. I'm about to step on this %*#&@$(!#$(%@!#!... On top of that, I just recharged my glow plug for the second round, and now my engine doesn't start at all!

Need help bros., I don't want to, but i'm about to give up on this thing...

V one

Groundforce-RCU

My Feedback: (20)

By now with all the tuning, sounds like you fried the glo plug.
Be sure when you take it out to check it, you replace the copper washer.
Also, if it idles with glo on, and stalls with it off, it is too rich.
The way I was shown is to start it, remove the glo starter, and adjust the lean the low end till smooth idle . Some of these needles are sensitive, just try small turns in until you find the smooth spot.
Id start with factory settings then work from there.

packfan88

My Feedback: (2)

if all else fails do you have local hobby shop? im sure the nitro guy would be glad to give it a basic tune to get it running. just make sure the guy knows enough to care for you car and no experiemtn with it.
im sure if hes the nitro guy he wont but ya never know

GT-R V One S

Dang, I try and try but this crap isn't giving me a break...

Like I said, I sealed everything up. My glow plug isn't shot -Luckily-

At first this morning It started, but the idle still fluctuated, then I put on the air filter. I got the car started and it idled normally but, I had to keep the glo on and it only stayed on for about 20-30 seconds, then if I take off the plug it dies in about 5-10 seconds, and it also dies when I try to apply the break...

On top of that crap, everytime my car dies I have trouble starting it back up, it seems everytime it dies I have to cover up the exhaust and pull before I can get it started normally again, does that mean something???
F^@&*@! Piece of (*!@(&$! what is going on with this thing!?!?

Help! Anyone! I actually went to hobby people, and with my luck they have some new rule, they can't touch our cars during work, only on field day which was yesterday!!!

Sorry for the long posts-
VoneS :stupid:

packfan88

My Feedback: (2)

wow only on field day? thats lame.

tell them your going to cause boycott and only buy on the third thrus of every month.

Groundforce-RCU

My Feedback: (20)

Throttle servo linkage doesnt sound like its set right....Do you have the radio on when setting the throttle barrel?( you should)
If not, could be when you turn the transmitter on, its shutting the throttle enough to lean it out and die, and specially when you apply the brake.......Just a thought.