New RS$ 3 Pulls to left at high speeds
04-26-2003, 01:05 AM
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New RS$ 3 Pulls to left at high speeds
I just did an OS .12CVRX engine swap without even running the old engine and now at mid and high speeds, the car really pulls hard to the left. How can I fix this? Thanks! Stock other than the engine....
04-26-2003, 01:58 AM
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New RS$ 3 Pulls to left at high speeds
its prolly not engine related, its prolly your front end being out of whack.
inspect the front end for bent or worn or out of alignment parts/pieces.
steering trim dont help?
inspect the front end for bent or worn or out of alignment parts/pieces.
steering trim dont help?
04-26-2003, 02:51 AM
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New RS$ 3 Pulls to left at high speeds
It could be a number of things, including torque steer, areodynamics, or a bad setup. If it does it at low speed too its probably just something that needs to be trimmed.
04-26-2003, 02:53 AM
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New RS$ 3 Pulls to left at high speeds
if it happens when you apply a lot of throttle then it is just torque steer, but it it happens at slow speeds then the steering servo has to be trimmed right.
04-26-2003, 11:49 AM
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New RS$ 3 Pulls to left at high speeds
It only does it if I am running mid speed and then hammer the throttle. It circles off to the left almost out of control. The car is brand new as of yesterday. Oh yeah, I immediately put in a Futaba High Torque Steering servo before the car was ever ran. I heard these servos were better than average.
04-26-2003, 12:47 PM
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New RS$ 3 Pulls to left at high speeds
I would check the following, as it fixed my torque steer problems with the same type of car:
Take all of the slop out of the steering. I found this to really help with the torque steer because the application of torque can no longer shift the steering assembly to one of it's freeplay extremes, thereby pulling the car to the left or right.
You can do this with RPM Rod Ends on turnbuckles. Also, replace the plastic center steering link with a threaded rod and rod ends. To get rid of that last little bit of steering slop, fill the gap in between the molded plastic servo arm parts with a silicone type gasket sealant. I used Copper Seal orange, and it worked great.
Once that's all done, the only play in your steering will be between the kingpins and the flanged pipes on the C-Arms, and that's not a whole lot of play. You can take that slop out with some creativity as well, but I didn't bother.
If you already have turnbuckles, check your toe setting. If that's out of reasonable spec, then you have a large amount of torque steer.
Another thing to do is to check your tires. Make sure that they're all evenly worn. This is more of an issue on foam tires, but should be checked on rubber tires as well. Your handling gets really bad once you torn a tire, and you'll be scratching your head as to why ( especially when racing at night ).
I've found that imbalanced wear due to constant left or right turning will cone the outside foam tire, and you'll have a hard time keeping it straight when you're trying to.
Some free and easy things to check for are that you don't have any broken suspension parts on the car. Press down on the front and rear suspension, and see if it gives in too easily.
I find that the first thing to break in a roll or a crash on these cars is the front upper shock mount. Me and my friends have done more of these parts in than any other part. It hurts when you break the carbon fibre ones, because that gets pretty expensive. That's why I still run plastic parts.
You might also want to check the shocks, to make sure that they have similar damping rates from left to right, in cas they need to be rebuilt, or at least reoiled.
Take all of the slop out of the steering. I found this to really help with the torque steer because the application of torque can no longer shift the steering assembly to one of it's freeplay extremes, thereby pulling the car to the left or right.
You can do this with RPM Rod Ends on turnbuckles. Also, replace the plastic center steering link with a threaded rod and rod ends. To get rid of that last little bit of steering slop, fill the gap in between the molded plastic servo arm parts with a silicone type gasket sealant. I used Copper Seal orange, and it worked great.
Once that's all done, the only play in your steering will be between the kingpins and the flanged pipes on the C-Arms, and that's not a whole lot of play. You can take that slop out with some creativity as well, but I didn't bother.
If you already have turnbuckles, check your toe setting. If that's out of reasonable spec, then you have a large amount of torque steer.
Another thing to do is to check your tires. Make sure that they're all evenly worn. This is more of an issue on foam tires, but should be checked on rubber tires as well. Your handling gets really bad once you torn a tire, and you'll be scratching your head as to why ( especially when racing at night ).
I've found that imbalanced wear due to constant left or right turning will cone the outside foam tire, and you'll have a hard time keeping it straight when you're trying to.
Some free and easy things to check for are that you don't have any broken suspension parts on the car. Press down on the front and rear suspension, and see if it gives in too easily.
I find that the first thing to break in a roll or a crash on these cars is the front upper shock mount. Me and my friends have done more of these parts in than any other part. It hurts when you break the carbon fibre ones, because that gets pretty expensive. That's why I still run plastic parts.
You might also want to check the shocks, to make sure that they have similar damping rates from left to right, in cas they need to be rebuilt, or at least reoiled.
