Rc Tricks and Tips
#26
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I have been doing some reading about tuned pipes and have found some really interesting stuff. Thought I would share some links.
[link=http://www.osengines.com/faq/faq-q652.html]http://www.osengines.com/faq/faq-q652.html[/link]
[link=http://www.bukupower.com/animateCorrect.html]http://www.bukupower.com/animateCorrect.html[/link]
[link=http://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/tunedpipetheory2.htm]http://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/tunedpipetheory2.htm[/link]
[link=http://www.maxxtraxxusa.com/Tuned_Pipes_3608.cfm]http://www.maxxtraxxusa.com/Tuned_Pipes_3608.cfm[/link]
[link=http://www.osengines.com/faq/faq-q652.html]http://www.osengines.com/faq/faq-q652.html[/link]
[link=http://www.bukupower.com/animateCorrect.html]http://www.bukupower.com/animateCorrect.html[/link]
[link=http://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/tunedpipetheory2.htm]http://www.prestwich.ndirect.co.uk/tunedpipetheory2.htm[/link]
[link=http://www.maxxtraxxusa.com/Tuned_Pipes_3608.cfm]http://www.maxxtraxxusa.com/Tuned_Pipes_3608.cfm[/link]
#27
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BK....I read those Links....
So.....Basically, if you cannot Accurately measure the RPM of your engine (after it has been tuned to its Peak capacity) at maximum speed, then it does no good to run a Header (tuned pipe) or a Stinger (exhaust chamber).
Unless, of course, it was designed Specifically for YOUR engine, (OS tuned exhaust on an OS engine). But you would STILL need a DYNO to determine the RPM of your engine at Top Speed, so that you could Tune in the Correct Frequency and hit the Sweet Spot. ( I dont Have a Dyno laying around....)
Specific top speed and RPM will be determined by type of Fuel (20%, 30%), Average ambient temperature and Humidity (Summer, Winter) and your tuning SKILL.
The Variables are virtually Endless. So, is it PRACTICALLY useless to install a Tuned Exhaust?
I dont think so, and here is Why......
I think Most of these engines come with an exhaust system that is SO Inefficient and Restrictive that almost ANY exhaust would be an improvement over the Cheap,Leaky,Plastic pipe that comes on Most RTR's.
I think that by increasing the flow of the AIR/FUEL mixture through an engine, you will increase the Horsepower in some degree, even without hitting that Magical Tuned Sweetspot......
I think that it is at least somewhat likely that you WILL hit that Magical Tuned Sweet Spot SOMEWHERE between the Startline and the End of the Street.
If you hit the Sweetspot at ANY point between the Start and the Finish, you will reap SOME Bonus of Dramatically increased horsepower and Lower Elapsed Times....
Besides.....They SOUND Cool!
So.....Basically, if you cannot Accurately measure the RPM of your engine (after it has been tuned to its Peak capacity) at maximum speed, then it does no good to run a Header (tuned pipe) or a Stinger (exhaust chamber).
Unless, of course, it was designed Specifically for YOUR engine, (OS tuned exhaust on an OS engine). But you would STILL need a DYNO to determine the RPM of your engine at Top Speed, so that you could Tune in the Correct Frequency and hit the Sweet Spot. ( I dont Have a Dyno laying around....)
Specific top speed and RPM will be determined by type of Fuel (20%, 30%), Average ambient temperature and Humidity (Summer, Winter) and your tuning SKILL.
The Variables are virtually Endless. So, is it PRACTICALLY useless to install a Tuned Exhaust?
I dont think so, and here is Why......
I think Most of these engines come with an exhaust system that is SO Inefficient and Restrictive that almost ANY exhaust would be an improvement over the Cheap,Leaky,Plastic pipe that comes on Most RTR's.
I think that by increasing the flow of the AIR/FUEL mixture through an engine, you will increase the Horsepower in some degree, even without hitting that Magical Tuned Sweetspot......
I think that it is at least somewhat likely that you WILL hit that Magical Tuned Sweet Spot SOMEWHERE between the Startline and the End of the Street.
If you hit the Sweetspot at ANY point between the Start and the Finish, you will reap SOME Bonus of Dramatically increased horsepower and Lower Elapsed Times....
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#28
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Hey Guys......
You All Know I HATE air leaks....Lol....
Here is a link to a Nice Guide for Sealing an Engine.
The guy is sealing a Savage engine, but the theory applies to All....
http://www.savage-central.com/module...wtopic&t=54465
.
You All Know I HATE air leaks....Lol....
Here is a link to a Nice Guide for Sealing an Engine.
The guy is sealing a Savage engine, but the theory applies to All....
http://www.savage-central.com/module...wtopic&t=54465
.
#29
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Have you ever wanted to rebuild your engine but didn't know how or was to scared to open it up ??? the link has step by step and gives good detail for the newbie
http://www.nitromonkey.com/xoops/art...ticle.id+4.htm
hope this helps some people out.......
Adam...
http://www.nitromonkey.com/xoops/art...ticle.id+4.htm
hope this helps some people out.......
Adam...
#30
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Here is a Cool Video, to Go Along with Kuppler's Engine Rebuild Post.
Rebuild your RC engine.........This is a Basic Video....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9v4ePOjjKNE
These Two Videos are part of a Set, and are more In Depth.......Lol, Choose your Poison....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP6l3...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZpIt...eature=related
Rebuild your RC engine.........This is a Basic Video....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9v4ePOjjKNE
These Two Videos are part of a Set, and are more In Depth.......Lol, Choose your Poison....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dP6l3...eature=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yZpIt...eature=related
#32
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ORIGINAL: uneze
reminders for old guys that suffer from (CRS) haha
reminders for old guys that suffer from (CRS) haha
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ORIGINAL: Redharris
These are All Useful Tips guys.....
Good Work....Keep em Comming....
Here is another...
Another Use for Baking Soda...
This tip is for stripped out holes in plastic parts.
First remove the screw from the stripped hole.
Take baking soda and fill the hole. Once hole is filled,
put one or two drops of CA glue on the hole filled with baking soda.
Once glue is dry, take a small drill bit (just slightly smaller than the screw)
and drill out the hole. You are now ready with a new, perfect non stripped hole for your screw.
These are All Useful Tips guys.....
Good Work....Keep em Comming....
Here is another...
Another Use for Baking Soda...
This tip is for stripped out holes in plastic parts.
First remove the screw from the stripped hole.
Take baking soda and fill the hole. Once hole is filled,
put one or two drops of CA glue on the hole filled with baking soda.
Once glue is dry, take a small drill bit (just slightly smaller than the screw)
and drill out the hole. You are now ready with a new, perfect non stripped hole for your screw.
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Oh yeah, that one did. I stripped out a couple holes in the diff housings on my XTM, and filled 'em up with the magic white nose candy (makes your fridge smell fresh... what did you think I was talking about?) and dropped some CA on it.
I wasn't sure what thickness of CA to use, so I used thick slow set. It didn't really penetrate that well, but it did go deep enough to suit my purpose. The hole was DEEP and I filled it all the way up, so it would have been tough to get it all the way solid. Still, it was enough to work, and work well.
Thanks again for the tip!
I wasn't sure what thickness of CA to use, so I used thick slow set. It didn't really penetrate that well, but it did go deep enough to suit my purpose. The hole was DEEP and I filled it all the way up, so it would have been tough to get it all the way solid. Still, it was enough to work, and work well.
Thanks again for the tip!
#38
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Ya he explained it diff on pal talk which I wish more himoto users would join hint hint paltalk. If you have a problem pm me I will reply.......
#40
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This is more along the lines of USEFUL info.
Some folks Upgrade their Servos only to find that the old Horn doesn't FIT anymore. (Some Folks just Jamm 'em on anyway[sm=48_48.gif])
The reason is that the Splines (number of teeth) on each brand of servo is Different. [sm=confused.gif]
Here is the KEY.
Hitec/Himoto MegaP models: 24 spline shaft
Airtronics/HPI/Sanwa/KO/JR/Spektrum: 23 spline shaft
Futaba/Himoto HSP models(currently): 25 spline shaft
Now you can order a nice aluminum servo horn (and be SURE it will fit!) when you upgrade your Servos!
Some folks Upgrade their Servos only to find that the old Horn doesn't FIT anymore. (Some Folks just Jamm 'em on anyway[sm=48_48.gif])
The reason is that the Splines (number of teeth) on each brand of servo is Different. [sm=confused.gif]
Here is the KEY.
Hitec/Himoto MegaP models: 24 spline shaft
Airtronics/HPI/Sanwa/KO/JR/Spektrum: 23 spline shaft
Futaba/Himoto HSP models(currently): 25 spline shaft
Now you can order a nice aluminum servo horn (and be SURE it will fit!) when you upgrade your Servos!
#41
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ORIGINAL: Redharris
This is more along the lines of USEFUL info.
Some folks Upgrade their Servos only to find that the old Horn doesn't FIT anymore. (Some Folks just Jamm 'em on anyway[sm=48_48.gif])
The reason is that the Splines (number of teeth) on each brand of servo is Different. [sm=confused.gif]
Here is the KEY.
Hitec: 24 spline shaft
Airtronics/HPI/Sanwa/KO/JR/Spektrum: 23 spline shaft
Futaba: 25 spline shaft
Now you can order a nice aluminum servo horn (and be SURE it will fit!) when you upgrade your Servos!
This is more along the lines of USEFUL info.
Some folks Upgrade their Servos only to find that the old Horn doesn't FIT anymore. (Some Folks just Jamm 'em on anyway[sm=48_48.gif])
The reason is that the Splines (number of teeth) on each brand of servo is Different. [sm=confused.gif]
Here is the KEY.
Hitec: 24 spline shaft
Airtronics/HPI/Sanwa/KO/JR/Spektrum: 23 spline shaft
Futaba: 25 spline shaft
Now you can order a nice aluminum servo horn (and be SURE it will fit!) when you upgrade your Servos!
#42
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Heres a tip I know it will sound stupid but it work on stripped screws....Toilet paper use one sheet to start if it still strips use 2 sheets. I have used it myself when I was in a bind, I guess my brain was working that day.
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ORIGINAL: Swamp3r
Heres a tip I know it will sound stupid but it work on stripped screws....Toilet paper use one sheet to start if it still strips use 2 sheets. I have used it myself when I was in a bind, I guess my brain was working that day.
Heres a tip I know it will sound stupid but it work on stripped screws....Toilet paper use one sheet to start if it still strips use 2 sheets. I have used it myself when I was in a bind, I guess my brain was working that day.
#48
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Nice Cam.......That'll help a few folks out for sure.
I only have one issue with it.....
If you Race tune an engine, you dont really want it to Idle for a full minute before it dies. That would mean you are running it rich enough to be wasting a lot of gas, which is a Big issue when racing.
But for Bashing or general tuning, I guess it wont hurt.
I only have one issue with it.....
If you Race tune an engine, you dont really want it to Idle for a full minute before it dies. That would mean you are running it rich enough to be wasting a lot of gas, which is a Big issue when racing.
But for Bashing or general tuning, I guess it wont hurt.
#49
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Hey guy's and gal's(I'm sure we have fairer sex in this hobby) here is something I hope will inspire and help I recently repaired my lower a arm on the front of my Mega-e XB10, with some high Tech super glue which seemed to hold but I was educated in another way. (thanks to Kuppler and Redharris1)
1. Take a soldering Iron with hopefully an old tip on it.
2. Zip ties ( I happened to have some Black ones for this project)
Get your broken part held together as best as you can, and take the Iron get it hot and place the zip tie on the break and push the Iron into the break and go about half way in with the melted tie and keep melting that tie as well to fill in the gap from the soldering Iron as you back out, and then do your best smooth it over, just be carefull not to bulk it up to much as to not get in the way of putting it back together.
Here are some pic's
1. Take a soldering Iron with hopefully an old tip on it.
2. Zip ties ( I happened to have some Black ones for this project)
Get your broken part held together as best as you can, and take the Iron get it hot and place the zip tie on the break and push the Iron into the break and go about half way in with the melted tie and keep melting that tie as well to fill in the gap from the soldering Iron as you back out, and then do your best smooth it over, just be carefull not to bulk it up to much as to not get in the way of putting it back together.
Here are some pic's
#50
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John.....
Excellent Job on that "Plastic Weld'' repair!.....
Now you can get Back to Bashing until the New Part comes in the Mail.
Be sure to follow up and let us Know how that repair holds up......
Excellent Job on that "Plastic Weld'' repair!.....
Now you can get Back to Bashing until the New Part comes in the Mail.
Be sure to follow up and let us Know how that repair holds up......