Something New: HPI RS4 SS Tuning Guide *Beta*
05-07-2003, 12:29 AM
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Something New: HPI RS4 SS Tuning Guide *Beta*
Hey guys, I'm working on an SS tuning guide. I have the basics done, and I'll soon be working on the Race Setup portion. If you see anything that needs to be changed, or to add something, please email me. Thanks.
email: [email protected]
----------------------------------------------------
The Unofficial HPI RS4 SS Track and Tuning Guide v0.1
By Miker
[email protected]
** If you break something because of what this guide says. It is Not my fault. **
I. Starting Out
II. Start Up Accessories
III. Engine Break-In thru the first Gallon
IV. Basic Tuning Guide
a. 2-speed
b.
V. 10 Hop-Ups that are Necessities
a. Clutch
b. Shock Oil
c. After Run Oil
d. Ball Ends
e. Exhaust
f. Battery Pack
g. Fuel Filter
h. Air Filter
i. Tires
j. Throttle Return Spring / fail Safe
VI.
Starting out:
Before you start, the first thing you need to do is pull out the kit addendum, and make notes in the manual where changes have been made. Trust me, this will save you a lot of time and headaches later. Also before you start the kit, invest in some blue loc-tight and a good RC grade grease. The amounts supplied in the kit are not sufficient enough to properly set up your kit.
The instructions that come with the kit are really second to none when it comes to building an RC. Just take your time, and follow them carefully to avoid costly mistakes, which will lead to tedious disassembly in the future.
Main Points to watch when you build the kit:
1. Make sure you put the O-Rings in the dog bones. This helps get rid of a lot of the play in the shaft system, and for some reason a lot of people overlook this step.
2. Take note of the direction of how the 2-speed is installed. This can easily be installed backwards.
3. Make sure you change the spring in the 2-speed assembly.
4. Any part that is “Metal to Metal” use loc-tight. With the exception of the 2-speed tuning screw.
5. Make sure your flywheel is on nice and snug. If not, your on your way to a new collet. Collets SUCK to install.
6. Loc-tight your Chassis -> Engine mount screws, and torque those buggers in. Check for gear mesh alignment. This will save your spur gears from getting stripped.
7. Make sure your turnbuckles are all identical in length. If your fronts/rears are even 1mm different it’ll cause a pull in your steering.
Star-Up Accessories:
Your going to need a radio, receiver, batteries, 2 servo’s, glow plug starter, and glow fuel. [This is all covered in the wonderful HPI manual] May I suggest that you don’t skim on this part. At the least, the JR XR2, but the JR XR3 is worth the 30$ upgrade. These are well rounded and affordable solutions. Both support multiple RC’s, and allow for digital adjustments (No damn knobs) to your settings. Anything less than a XR2 won’t do your driving justice, and anything more than the XR3 will be overkill, but is a good investment to “Grow Into”.
The servos that come with these sets will do fine to start, but I recommend upgrading these in the future to Metal Gear Servos with at least the following stats:
Steering: .15 / 60oz
Throttle / Brake: .15 / 60oz
Recommended
Steering: .12 / 80oz
Throttle / Brake: .15 / 60oz
Good servos will carry on with you from car to car, so if you can spend a few extra bucks now, you’ll thank me later. Hi-tec’s are a good choice and come in many flavors of plugs for compatibility. Again, upgrading your servo’s is not necessary to start, the included servos in most kits will be fine at the beginning.
Buy rechargeable battery packs. Just do it. No questions. Look under parts for recommendations.
Get a glow plug igniter that has a volt gauge on the top of it. They usually run 2 – 3$ more, but this will save a lot of headaches if you have a bad plug, or bad starter battery.
Glow Fuel: *sigh* This is a touchy subject. Unless you have enough experience to know otherwise, select a quality nitro car fuel. Find a brand that is reputable, and is easily available. Most racers Suggest (in no particular order) O’Donnell, Blue Thunder, and Wildcat, but other brands may be fine. Check with your LHS or HPI if your not sure.
Glow Fuel Bottle: Get a good one that is air tight, and looks durable. Nothing sucks more than nitro stains on your carpet. No, Blue Thunder doesn’t come out with Oxy Clean, ask my girlfriend.
Engine Break-In thru First Gallon:
** Warning: I Hold no responsibility if you break something **
Break-in on the SS is pretty straight forward. HPI includes an engine tuning sheet to give you great instructions on the break-in. However, instead of idling through the first few tanks, I recommend tapping the throttle slowly to get some heat built up in the engine. The sleeve in these engine is hard and needs some heat to help it break in, idling doesn’t let this Happen.
Keep in mind, this engine will take almost a full gallon to start to fully break in. Every SS owner will agree, it’s worth the wait. At first, don’t get discouraged if the engine is a bit of a pain in the ass to tune. Just take your time, and watch the temperature. As soon as you get past 1 gallon, you’ll be introduced to the world of single pull starts, and never touching the carb settings ever again.
Temperature: Get a good probe, and you take temperature on the heat sink around the glow plug. If you call HPI, they will tell you to run the engine around 270(f). I recommend to tune it to be at 250-260(f) to give room for error for peak performance. If you’re a wimp, and just out bashing 220 is the lowest I’d shoot for, and at 220, don’t be surprised if it runs like *beep*. Outside temp might vary your engine temp, so if you tune your engine on a day that it is 60(f) outside, make sure you extra check it on those hot summer days. Actually, you should get in the habit of checking it every time you run, period, no excuses.
If you have questions about your engine, and why it isn’t running the way you think it should. DON’T COPY SOMEONE ELSES CARB SETTINGS! Just because I can run at 2 turns and be fine, doesn’t mean you can. Call HPI if your unsure, take the car to your LHS, or consult local bashing expert. Do it right the first time, and your engine will last a long time.
The HPI .12 SS is made for HPI by OS. This is a QUALITY Engine, with an excellent temper. It’ll last quite a few gallons if you treat it well, so take care of it.
Basic Tuning Guide:
2-Speed
More people have trouble with the 2-Speed than any other part on this car. The 2-Speed is a bit of a trouble maker, but once you tame the beast, it’s so simple to maintain and control you’ll desire the sound
of it clicking in, the puff of smoke, and burst of speed that follows.
First, FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. Make sure everything is installed right, you switched the spring, and you have the shift set screw to the stock position (3 turns out). The first time you run your car, don’t be surprised if your car doesn’t shift. Your engine isn’t revving as high as it needs to, thus not engaging the 2 speed clutch. Don’t mess with the 2-speed until you know the engine is operating at full temperature.
If it still doesn’t shift, slowly turn the adjust screw counter clockwise until you hit a shift. Making sure you get your engine temp up to running temp each test run.
*NOTE* If after repeated tries, your still not shifting, take the 2-speed apart to make sure you have it assembled properly. Excessive runs at high speed, especially on a new engine, can cause damage. So go easy on the test runs.
*NOTE* You WILL know when the 2-speed kicks in. If you only “THINK” it is kicking it, then it is not. Trust me.
[Continued on next Message]
email: [email protected]
----------------------------------------------------
The Unofficial HPI RS4 SS Track and Tuning Guide v0.1
By Miker
[email protected]
** If you break something because of what this guide says. It is Not my fault. **
I. Starting Out
II. Start Up Accessories
III. Engine Break-In thru the first Gallon
IV. Basic Tuning Guide
a. 2-speed
b.
V. 10 Hop-Ups that are Necessities
a. Clutch
b. Shock Oil
c. After Run Oil
d. Ball Ends
e. Exhaust
f. Battery Pack
g. Fuel Filter
h. Air Filter
i. Tires
j. Throttle Return Spring / fail Safe
VI.
Starting out:
Before you start, the first thing you need to do is pull out the kit addendum, and make notes in the manual where changes have been made. Trust me, this will save you a lot of time and headaches later. Also before you start the kit, invest in some blue loc-tight and a good RC grade grease. The amounts supplied in the kit are not sufficient enough to properly set up your kit.
The instructions that come with the kit are really second to none when it comes to building an RC. Just take your time, and follow them carefully to avoid costly mistakes, which will lead to tedious disassembly in the future.
Main Points to watch when you build the kit:
1. Make sure you put the O-Rings in the dog bones. This helps get rid of a lot of the play in the shaft system, and for some reason a lot of people overlook this step.
2. Take note of the direction of how the 2-speed is installed. This can easily be installed backwards.
3. Make sure you change the spring in the 2-speed assembly.
4. Any part that is “Metal to Metal” use loc-tight. With the exception of the 2-speed tuning screw.
5. Make sure your flywheel is on nice and snug. If not, your on your way to a new collet. Collets SUCK to install.
6. Loc-tight your Chassis -> Engine mount screws, and torque those buggers in. Check for gear mesh alignment. This will save your spur gears from getting stripped.
7. Make sure your turnbuckles are all identical in length. If your fronts/rears are even 1mm different it’ll cause a pull in your steering.
Star-Up Accessories:
Your going to need a radio, receiver, batteries, 2 servo’s, glow plug starter, and glow fuel. [This is all covered in the wonderful HPI manual] May I suggest that you don’t skim on this part. At the least, the JR XR2, but the JR XR3 is worth the 30$ upgrade. These are well rounded and affordable solutions. Both support multiple RC’s, and allow for digital adjustments (No damn knobs) to your settings. Anything less than a XR2 won’t do your driving justice, and anything more than the XR3 will be overkill, but is a good investment to “Grow Into”.
The servos that come with these sets will do fine to start, but I recommend upgrading these in the future to Metal Gear Servos with at least the following stats:
Steering: .15 / 60oz
Throttle / Brake: .15 / 60oz
Recommended
Steering: .12 / 80oz
Throttle / Brake: .15 / 60oz
Good servos will carry on with you from car to car, so if you can spend a few extra bucks now, you’ll thank me later. Hi-tec’s are a good choice and come in many flavors of plugs for compatibility. Again, upgrading your servo’s is not necessary to start, the included servos in most kits will be fine at the beginning.
Buy rechargeable battery packs. Just do it. No questions. Look under parts for recommendations.
Get a glow plug igniter that has a volt gauge on the top of it. They usually run 2 – 3$ more, but this will save a lot of headaches if you have a bad plug, or bad starter battery.
Glow Fuel: *sigh* This is a touchy subject. Unless you have enough experience to know otherwise, select a quality nitro car fuel. Find a brand that is reputable, and is easily available. Most racers Suggest (in no particular order) O’Donnell, Blue Thunder, and Wildcat, but other brands may be fine. Check with your LHS or HPI if your not sure.
Glow Fuel Bottle: Get a good one that is air tight, and looks durable. Nothing sucks more than nitro stains on your carpet. No, Blue Thunder doesn’t come out with Oxy Clean, ask my girlfriend.
Engine Break-In thru First Gallon:
** Warning: I Hold no responsibility if you break something **
Break-in on the SS is pretty straight forward. HPI includes an engine tuning sheet to give you great instructions on the break-in. However, instead of idling through the first few tanks, I recommend tapping the throttle slowly to get some heat built up in the engine. The sleeve in these engine is hard and needs some heat to help it break in, idling doesn’t let this Happen.
Keep in mind, this engine will take almost a full gallon to start to fully break in. Every SS owner will agree, it’s worth the wait. At first, don’t get discouraged if the engine is a bit of a pain in the ass to tune. Just take your time, and watch the temperature. As soon as you get past 1 gallon, you’ll be introduced to the world of single pull starts, and never touching the carb settings ever again.
Temperature: Get a good probe, and you take temperature on the heat sink around the glow plug. If you call HPI, they will tell you to run the engine around 270(f). I recommend to tune it to be at 250-260(f) to give room for error for peak performance. If you’re a wimp, and just out bashing 220 is the lowest I’d shoot for, and at 220, don’t be surprised if it runs like *beep*. Outside temp might vary your engine temp, so if you tune your engine on a day that it is 60(f) outside, make sure you extra check it on those hot summer days. Actually, you should get in the habit of checking it every time you run, period, no excuses.
If you have questions about your engine, and why it isn’t running the way you think it should. DON’T COPY SOMEONE ELSES CARB SETTINGS! Just because I can run at 2 turns and be fine, doesn’t mean you can. Call HPI if your unsure, take the car to your LHS, or consult local bashing expert. Do it right the first time, and your engine will last a long time.
The HPI .12 SS is made for HPI by OS. This is a QUALITY Engine, with an excellent temper. It’ll last quite a few gallons if you treat it well, so take care of it.
Basic Tuning Guide:
2-Speed
More people have trouble with the 2-Speed than any other part on this car. The 2-Speed is a bit of a trouble maker, but once you tame the beast, it’s so simple to maintain and control you’ll desire the sound
of it clicking in, the puff of smoke, and burst of speed that follows.
First, FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. Make sure everything is installed right, you switched the spring, and you have the shift set screw to the stock position (3 turns out). The first time you run your car, don’t be surprised if your car doesn’t shift. Your engine isn’t revving as high as it needs to, thus not engaging the 2 speed clutch. Don’t mess with the 2-speed until you know the engine is operating at full temperature.
If it still doesn’t shift, slowly turn the adjust screw counter clockwise until you hit a shift. Making sure you get your engine temp up to running temp each test run.
*NOTE* If after repeated tries, your still not shifting, take the 2-speed apart to make sure you have it assembled properly. Excessive runs at high speed, especially on a new engine, can cause damage. So go easy on the test runs.
*NOTE* You WILL know when the 2-speed kicks in. If you only “THINK” it is kicking it, then it is not. Trust me.
[Continued on next Message]
05-07-2003, 12:30 AM
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Orlando, FL,
Posts: 556
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Something New: HPI RS4 SS Tuning Guide *Beta*
10 Hop-Ups that are Necessities:
1. Performance clutch: I almost recommend installing this while building the kit, and scrap the stock shoes all together. But, if you install this clutch improperly, it can make breaking in a pain in the ass, so only upgrade out of the box if you know what your doing.
*Note* Cutting off 1 level is recommended tuning point
Part Number: A885
Manufacture: HPI
Cost: < 10$
Importance: 10 of 10
2. Shock Oil: Scrap the stock *beep* that comes with the kit. I don’t know what it is, but lets be honest, it sucks. Invest in a good set of 35 / 40 / 45 weight oils, and don’t be afraid to experiment. 40 is recommended to start. I run 40 / 45. [fr / bk] Trinity is most likely the best with team associated being acceptable, but stay away from OFNA oil, it breaks down real quick, and doesn’t last more than a few runs.
Part Number: 7640
Manufacture: Trinity
Cost: < 5$
Importance: 8 of 10
3. After Run Oil: Put a few drops in the carb, or a few in the glow plug hole after you are done running for the day. Pull the starter 3 – 4 times. This keeps the engine happy, and will keep the engine lubed for the next time you fire it up. This helps prevent premature wear. 1 bottle will last forever.
Part Number: HCAP3000
Manufacture: Hobbico
Cost: < 5$
Importance: 10 of 10
4. Ball Ends: The Stock HPI Ball ends will break on you. They are weak, and easily snap. RPM makes great replacements, they come in multiple colors, and are direct replacements. *Note* These are slightly larger, so make your length measurements from cup to cup.
Part Number: 73378
Manufacture: RPM
Cost: < 5$
Importance 8 of 10
5. Tuned Exhaust: The plastic thing HPI gives you that they call a “Tuned Exhaust” is more like a 2-Stroke ka-zoo. Research possible upgrades, because they are constantly entering the market. Most people’s first reaction is to get the CVEC pipe. I recommend avoiding the CVEC pipe. First, they are not race legal. Second, you have to cut a huge body hole to fit it through. Third, they are uber-expensive. And finally, they are more show than go.
Recommended Pipes: RB Concepts, Paris Ring, RC10GT (RPM or TORQUE), Fantom
*Note* The HPI uses right side exhaust, please note position of exhaust pressure fitting.
Part Number: Various
Manufacture: Various
Cost: aprox. 30$
Importance: 7 of 10
6. 6v Battery pack: Save your money on buying pack after pack of Duracell’s. Get a 6v NiMah Rx battery pack. This will give your servos better performance, (over 4 rechargeable in a square) and save you money in the long run.
*Note* Check your Servos and RX to make sure they are 6v compatible. Order battery with proper connector for your RX.
Part Number: 1100 NiMah 5 cell 6v (T-Maxx Pack)
Manufacture: CheapBatteryPacks.com
Cost: $10
Importance: 7 of 10
7. Fuel Filter: This will keep the *beep* that can end up in your fuel tank out of your engine. Cheap insurance.
Part Number: 340
Manufacture: Dubro
Cost: 3$
Importance: 9 of 10
8. Air filter: High flow air filter will both give your engine a fresh breath of air, and also do a better job of keeping dirt out of the engine. I also recommend buying a handful of filters and filter re-oil. Old filter clean up nice with soap and water, and filter oil will help it stay sticky and attract smaller particles, and hold onto them. WD-40 will also work, but filter oil seems to do a better job.
*Note* I like the 10/11mm T-Maxx 45degree motor saver the best. The reason is, it moves the filter away from the engine which will help it collect colder and cleaner air. Also, it fits a little more snug. The idle adjust screw will get in the way, take an exacto knife and shave a VERY THIN sliver off the filter base to get it to fit.
Part Number: 1060
Manufacture: Motor Savers
Cost: < 15$
Importance: 9 of 10
9. Tires: You can stick with rubber tires, but only if you’re a parking lot basher. If you do stick with rubber, HPI V’s are the best unglued rubber tires you can get. If you want pre mounted on rims, Medial Pros are hard to beat. Unfortunately, the Medials aren’t race legal, so don’t waste your cash if you plan on racing.
Even if you’re a parking lot basher, please consider foam tires. I have ran through many pairs of foam and rubber tires, and foams will last you just as long. They require a little more care, but overall it is well worth it. The grip and control you receive, can’t be match by rubber. Period. If your racing, or plan on racing, foams are a must!
I run, Purple / Purple [fr / bk] but purple / dbl purple is the most common setup you’ll see. You can mix and match foams to get the best results. Your best bet is to talk to your LHS for the best set-up for their track. Either way I recommend the TRC 26mm.
Part Number: Various
Manufacture: Various
Cost: 12$ – 20$
Importance: 7 of 10
10. Throttle return spring / Fail-Safe
One day you’ll be running, and next thing you know, you’ll no longer be in control of your ride… That is until it hits a curb at “WOT”. Invest in a throttle return spring, they cost 1$ and are so easy to install. I have even heard rumors of people who used a ballpoint pen springs. Reguardless of how you do it, You’ll thank me later.
However, a TRS won’t help you when somone jumps on your Freq. And starts racing their car around. A fail safe is a cheap investment at only 30$ and will give you some added insurance. Be aware, they do draw power, and add unnecessary weight, but overall it is minimal. *NOTE* A failsafe is NOT a replacement for a TRS!!
Part Number: Various
Manufacture: various
Cost: 0$ - 30$
Importance 10 of 10
1. Performance clutch: I almost recommend installing this while building the kit, and scrap the stock shoes all together. But, if you install this clutch improperly, it can make breaking in a pain in the ass, so only upgrade out of the box if you know what your doing.
*Note* Cutting off 1 level is recommended tuning point
Part Number: A885
Manufacture: HPI
Cost: < 10$
Importance: 10 of 10
2. Shock Oil: Scrap the stock *beep* that comes with the kit. I don’t know what it is, but lets be honest, it sucks. Invest in a good set of 35 / 40 / 45 weight oils, and don’t be afraid to experiment. 40 is recommended to start. I run 40 / 45. [fr / bk] Trinity is most likely the best with team associated being acceptable, but stay away from OFNA oil, it breaks down real quick, and doesn’t last more than a few runs.
Part Number: 7640
Manufacture: Trinity
Cost: < 5$
Importance: 8 of 10
3. After Run Oil: Put a few drops in the carb, or a few in the glow plug hole after you are done running for the day. Pull the starter 3 – 4 times. This keeps the engine happy, and will keep the engine lubed for the next time you fire it up. This helps prevent premature wear. 1 bottle will last forever.
Part Number: HCAP3000
Manufacture: Hobbico
Cost: < 5$
Importance: 10 of 10
4. Ball Ends: The Stock HPI Ball ends will break on you. They are weak, and easily snap. RPM makes great replacements, they come in multiple colors, and are direct replacements. *Note* These are slightly larger, so make your length measurements from cup to cup.
Part Number: 73378
Manufacture: RPM
Cost: < 5$
Importance 8 of 10
5. Tuned Exhaust: The plastic thing HPI gives you that they call a “Tuned Exhaust” is more like a 2-Stroke ka-zoo. Research possible upgrades, because they are constantly entering the market. Most people’s first reaction is to get the CVEC pipe. I recommend avoiding the CVEC pipe. First, they are not race legal. Second, you have to cut a huge body hole to fit it through. Third, they are uber-expensive. And finally, they are more show than go.
Recommended Pipes: RB Concepts, Paris Ring, RC10GT (RPM or TORQUE), Fantom
*Note* The HPI uses right side exhaust, please note position of exhaust pressure fitting.
Part Number: Various
Manufacture: Various
Cost: aprox. 30$
Importance: 7 of 10
6. 6v Battery pack: Save your money on buying pack after pack of Duracell’s. Get a 6v NiMah Rx battery pack. This will give your servos better performance, (over 4 rechargeable in a square) and save you money in the long run.
*Note* Check your Servos and RX to make sure they are 6v compatible. Order battery with proper connector for your RX.
Part Number: 1100 NiMah 5 cell 6v (T-Maxx Pack)
Manufacture: CheapBatteryPacks.com
Cost: $10
Importance: 7 of 10
7. Fuel Filter: This will keep the *beep* that can end up in your fuel tank out of your engine. Cheap insurance.
Part Number: 340
Manufacture: Dubro
Cost: 3$
Importance: 9 of 10
8. Air filter: High flow air filter will both give your engine a fresh breath of air, and also do a better job of keeping dirt out of the engine. I also recommend buying a handful of filters and filter re-oil. Old filter clean up nice with soap and water, and filter oil will help it stay sticky and attract smaller particles, and hold onto them. WD-40 will also work, but filter oil seems to do a better job.
*Note* I like the 10/11mm T-Maxx 45degree motor saver the best. The reason is, it moves the filter away from the engine which will help it collect colder and cleaner air. Also, it fits a little more snug. The idle adjust screw will get in the way, take an exacto knife and shave a VERY THIN sliver off the filter base to get it to fit.
Part Number: 1060
Manufacture: Motor Savers
Cost: < 15$
Importance: 9 of 10
9. Tires: You can stick with rubber tires, but only if you’re a parking lot basher. If you do stick with rubber, HPI V’s are the best unglued rubber tires you can get. If you want pre mounted on rims, Medial Pros are hard to beat. Unfortunately, the Medials aren’t race legal, so don’t waste your cash if you plan on racing.
Even if you’re a parking lot basher, please consider foam tires. I have ran through many pairs of foam and rubber tires, and foams will last you just as long. They require a little more care, but overall it is well worth it. The grip and control you receive, can’t be match by rubber. Period. If your racing, or plan on racing, foams are a must!
I run, Purple / Purple [fr / bk] but purple / dbl purple is the most common setup you’ll see. You can mix and match foams to get the best results. Your best bet is to talk to your LHS for the best set-up for their track. Either way I recommend the TRC 26mm.
Part Number: Various
Manufacture: Various
Cost: 12$ – 20$
Importance: 7 of 10
10. Throttle return spring / Fail-Safe
One day you’ll be running, and next thing you know, you’ll no longer be in control of your ride… That is until it hits a curb at “WOT”. Invest in a throttle return spring, they cost 1$ and are so easy to install. I have even heard rumors of people who used a ballpoint pen springs. Reguardless of how you do it, You’ll thank me later.
However, a TRS won’t help you when somone jumps on your Freq. And starts racing their car around. A fail safe is a cheap investment at only 30$ and will give you some added insurance. Be aware, they do draw power, and add unnecessary weight, but overall it is minimal. *NOTE* A failsafe is NOT a replacement for a TRS!!
Part Number: Various
Manufacture: various
Cost: 0$ - 30$
Importance 10 of 10
