mikeDPP

I have had a Nitro Rustler for 3 weeks now and I have a question regarding how the truck is performing.

Let me give you the background: The truck was broken in exactly to the Traxxas specifications on 20% Traxxas Top Fuel. I have noticed that I have had a similar problem the entire time that I have owned the truck and I have put maybe 1/2 gallon of fuel through it so far. Basically, it runs very strong once it is warmed up and does wheelies on command, etc. I have noticed that it will stall after a couple of high speed passes when you bring it down to idle. It also fails to start right back up after it stalls. I have always assumed that it is over heating, so I take the body off and let the air get to it and it usually restarts in 2 minutes or so. To avoid over heating, I have also made the high end idle very rich: probably 5 1/2 turns open.

At first I though it was getting over heated, but I have never seen it do any of the signs of over heating as shown in the Traxxas trouble shooting guide. It has NEVER smoked out the top of the motor, had an irregular idle, lost power under acceleration, detonation, etc. The symptoms that I have: stalling at idle, hard to start when warm, etc. seem to point to engine damage from loss of compression when I read the trouble shooting guide, but I do not seem to have loss of power, and the truck is so new that I doubt I have severe damage already.

Given that I have a new glow plug in it, clean the air filter every 1 hour or so, run it in 90+ degree weather in desert conditions (Arizona), what do you think the problem is? Do I have the high end fuel mixture so rich that too much fuel is delivered to the carb on the high speed passes that it floods when you bring it down to idle? Then when I try to re-start right away it just cranks without starting. Is that possibly because it is flooded as I said in the last sentence? Is the 90+ degree weather getting to the limits of the comfortable range for the engine to operate in? Is it possibly because I need to clean the air filter even more often than the 1 hour interval recommended?

It is a long email for a simple problem, but please let me know what you think.

Thanks,

Mike D.

Tumbleweed-RCU

My experience with the same vehicle is this:
1) Normal everyday driving... keep it tuned to the factory specs, four out on the high speed and the head flush on the low speed.
2) When making High speed passes if it's not winding out and coming on the pipe (that's a term from my mechanic days, meaning when the exhaust note and response to sudden jerks of the throttle is crisp and high in pitch) lean the high speed about an 1/8 of a turn. Continue that process until you get a crisp exhaust tone.
3) When it stalls and you restart keep your transmitter in your hand and feather the throttle until you can hear the engine hit it's sweet spot and hold it there. Usually you only have to hold the throttle back about an 1/8 to a 1/4 of an inch.

If this doesn't work your sh*ts broke bro.
P.S. If your just playing around and not racing really try to keep the high speed and low speed at the factory specs. As I posted in another forum: DO NOT OVERTUNE YOUR 2.5 it's quick enough running rich.

studysession

Do you have a temp gun to check the temp?

mikeDPP

Tumbleweed:

Thanks for the advice but I am not sure it helps me. The truck runs great and I am running it extremely rich to avoid the dreaded lean over heat problem, but it keeps stalling. Exhaust tone seems good and throttle response is crisp. Does the brand of fuel make a big difference?

Studysession:

I do not have a temp gun. How much are they?

Mike

studysession

I had same prob - and after got temp gun, even though I did not think it was to hot, it was over heating. So now mine runs great.

They cost between 50 - 100 - depends on brand and model. I have a Ratek Temp gun from towerhobbies.com

mikeDPP

Studysession:

Did you get the temp gun before or after causing engine damage? Do you just keep tweaking the idle adjustments until it runs at the optimum temp?

Mike D.

studysession

Once I got the temp gun it was easy.

But I kept running it until it arrived. Kept stalling and junk. If you look at my coolant. Part looks burnt.

Now it is fine and still runs strong.

mikeDPP

Studysession:

Thanks for your help. I will probably break down and buy one since it will be cheaper than buying a new engine. It will probably eliminate some frustration as well.

Is your experience with a Nitro Rustler? Maybe it is justified, but all of the warnings and trouble shooting guides have made me paranoid about frying the engine. They make it sound like it is actually easy to fry the engine. I hoipe they are a little more durable then they make it sound.

Mike D.

studysession

Mike D.

I have 2 TMaxx 2.5's
1 Nitro TC3
1 OFNA Hyper 7 PBS with the Hyper .21 in it.

mikeDPP

Studysession:

Have you had to rebuild either 2.5 yet? How many gallons of fuel have you run through them?

Mike D.

studysession

I have about 2 gallons through them. They still run strong as day 1. I would like to get better coolant heads for both.

1 of them I put a CVEC pipe on and it rocks. It is the new style - puts the exhaust out the rear. Quiets it down a lot. A lot of people like more noise. My wife likes hers more quiet. Performance is better than stock pipe.

calvinsj2003

As you mentioned about the noise from the Exhaust. I just bought GS storm RTR, it's so loud that my neighbor complaint about it. I wonder if you know any pipe that will fit the storm and quiet one. Thanks