stv1jzgte

Hi Everyone! My names Steve and as i said im a noob. Well i got myself a cool christmas present for myself this year a Ta05 v2 (cusco rex) and a tamiya sport tuned motoras well as an AE86 Levinbody ...sweeeet!(not using yet) 3 daysof tinkering i finnishedthe car!

So i watched every videoon you tube and i've been practicing in my street endfor a few weeks now and its awesome fun, last time a had an rc car(grasshopper) the batterys lasted about 5 mins! these things go for 30 beforethere empty!
I have a set of drift slicks im not sure of the brand they were but there as hard as a rock and it slides really well, actually i have nothing to compare it to so it could be crap but i can loop around myself pretty well in both directions.I have ordered some ABS tires off ebay but am waiting for them to arrive.
Any ideas as to what would be the best things to firstupgrade?

One thing that i have seen you talk of is SC ratio's or counter steer ratio, I thoughtcounter steer is turning the steering wheels in the opposite direction to the cars tail, call it drifting oversteering going sideways whateva its what ya do to stop the car from spining out.Why is it when the rear wheels spin faster than the front its called counter steer??
Again Noob here Thanks again in advance.

kstmRYD

You are right about counter steer - that's exactly what you do with the RC, just like the real deal you counter so you keep the front wheels pointed in your intended line of travel while the car is sliding at an angle, how steep the angle is up to your skills and the mechanics of the chassis.

But when it comes to 1:1 drifting and 1:10 RC drifting the similarity ends in the steering aspect. In order to get the rear of the car to brake loose, get it into an angle and keep it there for a decent amount of distance requires different mechanics than the real deal. In a real car in order to break the rear loose (oversimplyfing here) you would get enough speed, jam the e brake, cut the front wheels, whip out the rear, releasing the e brake and reving the snot out of the engine and ripping rubber down the road.

Your RC can imitate that with rear wheel revolution, the more revs the rear wheels have ( 1:1.5 revs or 1:2.0 revs or greater) as opposed to the front, the easier it is to break the rear loose, keep revs up and slide in an angel as you counter steer and keep your intended line of travel. Soing this mod to your RC car makes driving in a straight line a bit more difficult as the rear constantly wants to pass the front.

The RC is 4WD so your front wheels not only steer but they give you just enough traction to keep that forward momentum going and the high revs of the rear wheel are spinning like mad just going along for the ride until you get them in line with the front wheels.

CS is challenging, that's what makes it so addictive, the first time I tried it I was frustrated but I kept with it and know 50/50 drifting seems boring. CS will also increase you mechanical abilities as you learn how to mod the driveline.

Upgrades?? First thing- front one way diff and lock the rear diff or get a rear spool. Then tires come into play, find the right compound that works for you and the surface and track layout and size.

Sorry for the long winded explanation, hope this helps.

stv1jzgte

hey thanks kstmRYD you have explained it perfectly i do understand, i guess its just weird hearing it called that. so what is it ? gearing or a different rear diff?
thanks again!

kstmRYD

On the TA05 the way to counter steer it is changing pulley sizes on the diffs and the center shaft. The pulley on the center shaft (the shaft the spur gear is attached to) that goes to the rear diff is increased in size to increase revs, and the pulley on the front diff is increased in size to slow down revs. Belts have to be replaced to accomodate different pulley sizes, good thing about this chassis is that you can get a kit with all you need to CS it to 1.5 - then all you need is a front one way and lock the rear or get a spool.

Active Hobby makes the 1.5 CS kit, here's one place that sells it
http://www.genkidoridori.com/index.p...oducts_id=1040

The front one way is Tamiya 53833
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/ite...oduct-id=53833

Spool is Tamiya 53877
http://www.etamiya.com/shop/tamiya-5...7.html?image=0

stv1jzgte

Hi guys today i got the front 1 way but the diff pully supplied is smaller than std and i cannot get the belts tight enough even at full adjusment, just off full tension.

The part is for a TA05 but i have a v2 are the pulleys the same size? or did i stuff up....i stuffed up didnt i []

kstmRYD

That pulley on the one way should be a 37 tooth, I know that tamiya makes a 36 tooth - what part no. is the one way assembly 53833? if it is it should have come with a 37T pulley. You can alway put your original pulley on the oneway, you just have to enlarge the center hole on the pulley. Invest into a step drill bit it makes jobs like this one easy.

stv1jzgte

Nope its a 3 racing 1 way ! and i just checked its 36 tooth, here's hopeing the tamiya 37 tooth fits the 3 racing 1 way.