Sangramento

Hi there, i'm a new member here seeking answers. I was looking to buy a new Rustler XL-5 when i ran into a old school Rustler on craigslist for $80(w/ remote and aftermarket battery). The seller says it's the first of its kind and has a MECHANICAL speed control. The truck looks in pretty good shape for being so old, but i know no major changes were done to the Rustler since it first came out. My question here is if it's a quick swap to an ESC from an old mechanical one, or a technical re-soldering pain to attach the new ESC? I'm looking to buy tons of aftermarket parts such as a brushless system, lipo battery ect...so i'm not really looking into paying $350+ for a Rustler VXL.thx, any information would be useful.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

Mechanical speed control? Phweew! Old School, indeed. Ditch the whole system.
Get one of these: http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-35a-9t-3650-motor.html
and if they're in stock, one of these: http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt2-blue.html
Probably need a steering servo: http://www.hobbypartz.com/60gexidised2.html

Motor system : $77
Radio system: $20
Steering Servo: $16

TOTAL: $113 + shipping for ALL NEW electronics!!

Of course, a good LiPo battery: http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-50...se-direct.html will set ya back $42
And this is a GREAT charger for UNDER $50 http://www.hobbypartz.com/73p-ac680-accharger.html

I run ALL this gear, bought from HobbyPartz, and it's all great stuff. You won't find a better plug-in-the-wall charger than the AC680. That EZrun motor system is in used in both 2wd and 4wd vehicles and run fast and reliably. (I notice that they are out of the FlySky GT2, you may have a wait. But the GT3C is only $49 and has a ten model memory in addition to tons of adjustments)

Being an OLD rustler, it probably has BUSHINGS instead of BEARINGS. Not just in the wheels but in the tranny too. Replace ALL bushings with bearings. Your LHS should be able to help you with that, or, the Official Rustler forum here on RCU with sizes needed.

Being in Sacto, you're limited to Hobby Town over on Folsom Blvd. I think there is still a hobby shop in Folsom. My LHS is the Ace hardware/hobby in Cameron Park.

phmaximus

Yeah I don't know... It's not really a good deal

For the same price or a little more u should be able to find a newer rolling chassis with the stronger grey chassis, metal gears, ball bearings, slipper clutch and the black axles. Have a sus on eBay there are 4 under $100

phmaximus

And I agree with rob on the electronics... Those ezrun 9t combos work a treat in rustlers and slashes.
over all it will have better tunability and preformance from a genuine VXL Rustler

if u were to run it on 3s, it would be mental....it would be what I call, stupid fast.

Stupid fast: A car in which the acceleration and top speed far exceed the cars handling abilities.

Sangramento

Hey thanks for all those awesome ideas! I ended up buying a newer model stock Rustler off another guy for $80.
I headed straight to the hobby shop afterwards to buy one of those 30 min chargers. I charged up the battery that came with the truck and ran it outside topless in the rain. TOPLESS IN THE RAIN U SAY??? OOPS!
It turns out that i don't have the newer waterproof version of the rustler (i have a yellow esc), Damn! Even though i don't think my electronics suffered water damage, i'm pretty sure the motor gave out.
I try turning on the stock XL-5 esc and the green light doesn't stay on unless I hold it, and If i hold it for 3-5 secs then it turns red(mode change right?). Aren't those symptoms of a faulty receiver or motor?
Atleast that's what the Interwebs tells me.
Anyways, anyone think i should upgrade right away to a sidewinder 3 4600kv combo? or buy another titan 12 turn, if you think that's what's keeping my esc from staying powered on.
Keep in mind It's been about 8 years since i've owned a rc car. I'm not the most experienced driver nor the least. So maybe it's a good idea to stick to a baby power motor for a couple weeks
and throw in that brand new 5000 Mah 7.2v venom battery i just bought.But at the same time i want one of those sound-barrier breaking trucks you see on youtube!

I'm looking forward to a response from a castle product owner to tell me how those motors and esc's run. thanks!

phmaximus

Best bet would be to head over to traxxas.com and grab the manual then try to re calibrate the ESC as per instruction but test the motor first.
to test the motor, plug ur battery directly into it

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

The stock brushed motors should not fail in the rain. In fact, you can run them under water! Brushed motors don't fail unless the brushes wear out or fall off.

But ESCs do not like water. If you can carefully open the case, it would help to let it dry out. If it still misbehaves and attempting to re-calibrate the ESC fails, then the ESC could be toast. One last thing to try: un-plug the servo from the receiver, and try the ESC again. If it still doesn't work, the ESC is fried. If it seems to work again and you have throttle response, then the servo is foinked and it needs replacing. A fried servo can cause a whole system to "brown out" and behave erratically, or not at all.

I had a Sidewinder Sv2 system in my Evader (cousin to Rustler). It was a good system until it died. Still don't know why. The ESC just gave out after about three months. The Castle-Link software and USB dongle (sold separately) is a very powerful tuning tool giving you great adjustability. The Sv3 systems are now supposedly waterproof. The 4-pole Castle motors are stong, torquey, and fast. Lots of people use them. I just didn't have a very good experience. Consequently, I went with HobbyWing EZrun systems. LOADS cheaper, reliable and strong. Never had any issues with them in over three years. Never looked back.

Sangramento

oh nice, the motor works! i re-programmed the esc and this thing gots some burst! i put a brand new 5000 mah venom battery in there.
thank you sir. +1 to you

Sangramento

Thx Rob, that's very good info as well that I will probably use in the near future. I think i'm going to risk buying the sidewinder 3 since it's in my price range. If it ends up failing then i'll probably end up buying that EZrun setup you're talkin' about.
Also a quick question, Is it strongly recommended to use Lipo batteries on a brushless system like the sidewinder? Does a regular Nimh battery really do damage to the brushless system?

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

No, it's the other way 'round: The BL system will kill the NiMh battery. NiMhs are fine for bushed systems, but brushless systems draw a lot more current (amps) and NiMhs cannot do that easily as LiPos. Consequently, the NiMh pack can get hot. Hot enough to melt the shrink-wrap. In electronics, heat kills. So if you go brushless, go Lipo.

I HOPE you have great luck with the Sv3. It's a very powerfull system with loads of adjustability. Let us know how it does if you get it. I'd love someone to prove that Castle electronics can last longer than three months. (yeah yeah, I know there's folks out there who have been running their MMP for years, but I keep reading about people having to send their SW in for repair, at a cost of $55. Doesn't exactly fill me with confidence.)

kistner

My Feedback: (10)

EXT2Rob, my kids and I are still running first gen Sidewinders in three different cars with no issues (knock on wood I guess). I also have a mamba max I bought used that looks like a dog chewed on and it is also still holding up.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

First gen SWs? That's good! Kinda fits my theory. Design something to fit a user niche. If successful, (yours) then reduce part-count and/or quality of parts to improve margins, usually profit margins, until something fails, (mine) then ID failure, and adjust design accordingly. I'm hoping with the Sv3 is the one that is as robust as your first gen units. But I'm still waiting for the reports to start coming in. Which should be about now.

Sangramento

Anyone know if there's a baja bug body out there that fits directly onto a rustler? i keep googlin for it, but all i'm finding is the slash version of the body. To my understanding, either i extend the chassis on my rustler or throw on some slash tower mounts. If anybody has got some good and useful information such as links or pics i'll take it into consideration of flying to your home state and giving you a big bear hug.

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

The Rustler and Evader are the same size. This is the Duratrax Baja Bug based on the Evader chassis, http://www.towerhobbies.com/products...ax/dtxd36.html
so I'd think the body could be made to fit on the Rustler with appropriate body posts.

Sangramento

I'm having some trouble here calibrating/programing my new brushless setup( sidewinder 3 esc w/ 5700kv motor). Im reading the instructions and it says here something about having my polarities right on the receiver. Maybe because the wire colors on my esc are different from the ones that are coming out of my receiver? Maybe that's the issue?

Sangramento

kistner

My Feedback: (10)

Not sure what your attachment is, its not working. however, in your photo the esc wire appears backwards. Brown on castle = black on futaba style.
you may experience interference on your am radio from the brushless setup. Right after I went brushless I ended up springing for 2.4 radio setups.
Merry Christmas!

Sangramento

So you're saying i can't use my old stock receiver with my new esc?

Edit: Oops nvm, yeah i had the esc wires backwards, thank you sir kistner

Sangramento

ARrRgh!! I was tightening up my pinion and it cracked open at the thread!
There go my plans of enjoying my castle setup on christmas day.
Dear Santa, bring me a new 24t pinion plz k thx..

phmaximus

FYI the slash and rustler have the same shock towers and body mounts. They just flipped it upside down for the slash

Best bet would be... Getthe new traxxas LCG chassis for the slash, and fit it to ur rustler. It will give it the correct wheelbase for the baja bug bodies...

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

++1 on THAT. Rendered the old AM system all but useless. Castle systems are noisy. Got me a $20 2.4ghz system from HobbyPartz, but they're OOS.
Found it here> http://www.myrcmart.com/flysky-fsgt2...at-p-4795.html Great basic system. If you have multiple cars, the GT3C for less than $50 can't be beat either, for the average Joe. I don't race but on my own track with my buddy, so I don't need a $400 radio.

phmaximus

+1 on the GT3C I don't own one... Yet...but Soon...I've been doing a lot of research on the GT3c and for under $100 its possible the best one out in terms of value for money... And for $50 its great... Allso they can be hacked for greater adjustability and more channel's

Sangramento

I payed $65 for a TTX 240/ receiver combo yesterday. It's nothing special, no fancy features or adjustments. I feel like i over payed for it, but hey it works great.
I guess all that's left for me to buy is a Lipo battery and charger. I've been running my sidewinder/5700kv for a couple of days now with a new 5000mah 7.4v nimh.
It's runs pretty good, but I would like to see more top speed and torque. I think i'm only getting to about 40-45mph right now so i'm not too happy.
I'm still debating between a 2s and 3s lipo with around 30c rating. I feel I'm not going to be satisfied with a 2s's power, and afraid a 3s is going to bring my temps way up.
My gearing is 18/86 so my car is running at normal temps. i had a 28t pinion in there but it was running too hot. Any suggestions on how to re-gear or prepare my rustler for a 3s lipo?
Or does anyone think a 2s will give me sufficient power/torque to get me up to 65mph with proper gearing? Also I always thought i'd be a basher type of guy but i find myself doing
a lot of speed runs through my neighborhood. Mostly because i'm too lazy to drive a few blocks to a nice basher spot. If anyone gots a nice hybrid setup that they want to share, I would be most grateful...

EXT2Rob

My Feedback: (1)

You WILL see greater speed and torque from a Lipo battery. Will it get you from 40mph to 60mph? No. You'll have to do that with gearing or more voltage. Get yourself a good IR thermometer, and make sure it's accurate. It's the best way to keep an eye on your motor & ESC temps while trying to figure out your gearing. I wouldn't spend my money on a 3S Lipo until you run it on a 2S Lipo and get your gearing sorted. And when sorting your gearing, make smaller changes. Going from an 18T pinion to a 28T pinion is like going from 2nd gear to 5th! Just go up a tooth, or two at most, run it, check motor temps, and go from there. Don't let the motor get over 180F (<160 is better). Nominal running temps should be 140-150, geared properly. Of course, outside temps and ground temps will vary that. That Castle 5700kv should give you MORE than enough speed on 2S. 3S would require a slight gear-down, I'd think. Otherwise that thing would be uncontrolable. Consider getting the CastleLink dongle for tuning the ESC. Brushless motors will kill NiMh batteries because they cannot supply the Amps the motor wants, and it will heat the battery hot enough to melt the shrink wrap, and that will kill the battery in short order.

phmaximus

Damm be carefull with that nimh battery and that castle combo. I Would hate to see u fry the ESC... Its a very real possibility.
Been a 5700kv motor on a 2s lipo it will be pulling 42,180rpm....... That's heapse... And the torque from the 540 size motor...