Northern Mike

I'm looking for some driving tips or tricks for track racing.
I have a friendly race with a buddy of mine in a few weeks (loser buys the beer).

Neither of us have actual track experience (just got a track in Sudbury), little to no budget (both unemployed), and no more local hobby shop.

He'll be running either his HPI Bullet Flux ST or his Axial EVO with I'm assuming a traxxas 3500kv motor/ESC on 3s.

I'd like to run my OFNA LX2e but am tempted to rebuild my Rustler as I've got a hundred packs or so on it this winter, so tons of experience on it, little experience on the OFNA.
What ever car I run, it will have an 80A ESC with 1900kv 3674 motor on 4s.
The ofna will be 16 or 18/51 and the rustler will probably be 31/76 (need to test temperatures).

Anyway, I want to run the lx2e, so it'll be a bit of a learning curve. One critical area I'm concerned with is cornering.
I'm going to try a few packs with no front sway bar, brake before the corner, light throttle through the first part of the corner, then gradually apply more throttle from the half point to full on exit.
Does this sound right on a 1/8 4wd?

collector1231

My Feedback: (1)

I love the way my OFNA truck corners. Just don't roll it or go too fast, and you're in business. I normally let off the throttle once I steer to the right angle and then nail it once it's going straight.

Northern Mike

I took the front sway bar off and adjusted the preloaded on the front shocks. Still need a bit of adjustment but the buggy now turns 100x better.
Previously the inside tire would lift, losing all the power to the wheel not on the ground.
I do however have to watch in high traction situations as it will roll.

Northern Mike

So I spoke with one of the organizers at the newish track which is about 60 miles from here.
Their rules are very relaxed. For 1/8 buggy, 4s max battery and everything else must be 1/8 scale (tires, etc).
Are most tracks this relaxed?

RC Mechanic

For most tracks the rules are 1/8 tires and up to a 4 cell Lipo. And you'll get called in for a stop and go for rough driving if in expert class. Little more room with that rule for beginner class and sportsman class should know better by now ha ha. A little rubbing sometimes is okay but in open wheel racing you really want to run as clean as possible. That's why I like open wheel vs short course as it promotes cleaner racing instead of a hack fest.

Northern Mike

That is another good reason for me to like buggies. I like clean racing and can't be replacing bodies and what not on a regular basis.
As for the classes, rc racing is just making a come back here. My cousin use to race back in the 80's when it was big in the expert class with a turbo optima.
I think the rules are pretty relaxed due to attendance requirements. If they are too stiff, they would only have a couple racers out at the track.

I'm going to try and hit the track a few times this year. Funds are tight and being 50+ miles from home one way, I won't have tons of funds for upgrades.
This year will be mostly driver mods for me while I work out the equipment on the side for next year.

Weight lose will be the biggest area I'll be addressing on the side.
My current setup with everything in the car is 3902g.
My 5000mah hardcase battery is 526g
My metal chassis is 312g (well spare lx1 chassis with no side panels)


Because I can, I'm going to fabricate an OEM replacement carbon fiber chassis (with side panels built in). It won't drop huge weight but any weight lost is good. While doing this, I can adjust the component placement (hate the OEM layout, need to pull most items out just to change the pinion gear) and lower the battery and ESC a hair to drop the top heavy weight.

What battery size should I consider running for racing (mah wise)?