hivemind

In 1988 i bought my first real R/C truck, one of the original Tamiya Clodbusters. Over the years i have modded it to the point that none of the original kit exists on it today. Everything is pretty much aluminum. Shoehorned into the twin JPS Pro gearboxes are twin Mamba Max speedos hooked up to a pair of cm36s 5700 kv motors.

So i just got the Castle Link and was brousing around all the new settings and notice they are so much more complex than they were years ago when i first got the speedos. I have Windows 7 now so i had to get the Link so i could tweak a few things. I started by disabling reverse. Then set drag brake on both front and rear to 50% to slow her down going into turns. Afterwards, i set the rear brake at 75% and the front at 70% to help going into corners, which speaking of, i also set the front Sensorless Motor Timing at 11 to the rears 10 to get the front axle to spin a fraction of a second faster to help power out of said corners. Everything else i left alone.

So a few questions on these setting: Is setting the front motor timing the place where i would want to go to to get the front motor to spin a little faster than the rear or would i be needing to use one of the other settings? Would the rear motors brake amount of 75% compared to the fronts 70% give me a noticeable difference on how it enters a turn and whether it will pivot the rear enough to cut a good corner? And, finally, is 50% drag brake front and rear even needed for entering turns?

I run a pair of 6000mah 2s 7.4v 35c lipos with her. I am not new to R/C electric monsters, or gas, or nitro for that matter, but i am in need of a basic foundation of todays theory crafting on various driving profiles as i have a bit more free time to spend on this particular hobby.

Few other tidbits of info: All aluminum gearing, cvd's front and rear, full JPS Pro based modified race chassis with direct to axle shock mounts, xxl Novak receiver, Dominator tires wrapped around a set of clod sized jumbo kong rims (to get a nice wide but flat tire as opposed to a rounded shape), Integy wheel wideners (ya i know, Integy blows).

So what say you R/C community? Am i missing a couple things i could be doing to make my ride round the track a bit more fun? I am something of a control freak of a driver so naturally i want to have a tight driving profile when rubber meets dirt.

Thanks in advance ladies and gents,
Vern in Michigan.

RustyUs

Wow! Duel 5700 motors... that's awesome! Every setting you have seems like it should be fine. I never have used MMax in a duel setting. The only setting of concern, to me, is the drag brake setting may be set a little to high. You may get too much momentum coming into a turn, and swing the rear end around to fast.

hivemind

So going a little heavier on the drag brake may be beneficial to getting in and out of a corner? I want to be able to swing the rear of the truck around as fast as possible, go in hot, let off trigger for the drag to kick in, maybe give it some extra brake to swing her round, then mash the throttle out of the turn. So you think the drag setting is to light to accomplish that? When i get some time off work i will give it a try, thank you for your input, much appreciated. Anyone else have an idea to add to Rusty's comment?

RustyUs

Yes, by all means, start that drag brake setting at the half way point. Only way to tell...get out on the track.
Maybe someone over in the Monster Truck forum has some settings suggestions or can verify some for you.

Maj_Overdrive

My Feedback: (11)

There are two things you need to do that you didn't mention. First is to take the red wire out of the connector on one of the esc's as you don't want both hooked up. I've never had a clod but I'm pretty sure one of the motors needs to rotate in reverse. This can be accomplished through the settings of the esc or by switching 2 or the wires around.

The other settings of the esc are going to require some experimentation to get the optimal setup. Personally I wouldn't set one motor with different timing than the other. Instead you may want to consider reducing power to the rear motor. There's a few ways to do this, increasing punch control (will basically slow throttle ramp up), increasing torque control (controls overall torque throughout rpm range and all trigger positions), you could even give the rear motor a different throttle curve so the front will spin faster at all but full throttle.

Drag brake is a great way to apply the brakes while reducing trigger travel. Less trigger travel can help your reaction times. Giving the rear more drag brake could help the rear break loose and spin around. Experimentation is going to be needed. Be sure to name your profiles front and rear when you save them to avoid confusion.

hivemind

Thanks for your ideas Overdrive. I have the JPS gearboxes so having to reverse one of the gearboxes isn't needed, they were designed so the motor is on the same side as the rear when installed.