My truck
#2
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thankfully its not a evader or rusty...love seeing some more t4's. i have to say, REPLACE the conectors, please, tamiyas suck so bad...... otherwise, not too bad
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...and while you have your soldering iron hot, hard wire that motor in there before the quick-connects fall apart! [X(]
outta do well for you with the 14T - run 'er hard!
outta do well for you with the 14T - run 'er hard!
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Why do I need to replace my tamiya connecters? And I have heard of hard wireing it in before but I really don't know how it looks/what it does/how to do it
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Well, bear with me...
Imagine a 2-liter bottle of pepsi, coke, or whatever. Take the lid off and turn it upside down - what happens? The liquid comes out, but slowly due to the neck in the bottle being smaller than the bottle. Now if you cut the neck off and try it again, the liquid will basically 'fall out'. Same with your battery and wiring.
The battery's current is like the liquid, the wires are the bottle, and those connectors are the neck. You want your motor to get the most possible current from the battery, and those connectors are holding things up.
The tamiya plugs on the battery connections are junk - really. Within a short time they'll get loose, fall apart, and need to be replaced anyway. More important now, is they only carry about 10-15amps. A Dean's or Sermos plug will not wear out, and they carry 35amps of current. Big difference.
The connectors from esc to motor do the same thing - I would assume that the wires from your esc are long enough to reach the motor. If so, just clip the connector off and solder the end of the wire to the motor terminal that it belongs on. You'll gain current flow, and even get a bonus by shortening the wire!
I promise you this - getting rid of those two weak spots will get you more top speed, and longer battery runtime.
Imagine a 2-liter bottle of pepsi, coke, or whatever. Take the lid off and turn it upside down - what happens? The liquid comes out, but slowly due to the neck in the bottle being smaller than the bottle. Now if you cut the neck off and try it again, the liquid will basically 'fall out'. Same with your battery and wiring.
The battery's current is like the liquid, the wires are the bottle, and those connectors are the neck. You want your motor to get the most possible current from the battery, and those connectors are holding things up.
The tamiya plugs on the battery connections are junk - really. Within a short time they'll get loose, fall apart, and need to be replaced anyway. More important now, is they only carry about 10-15amps. A Dean's or Sermos plug will not wear out, and they carry 35amps of current. Big difference.
The connectors from esc to motor do the same thing - I would assume that the wires from your esc are long enough to reach the motor. If so, just clip the connector off and solder the end of the wire to the motor terminal that it belongs on. You'll gain current flow, and even get a bonus by shortening the wire!
I promise you this - getting rid of those two weak spots will get you more top speed, and longer battery runtime.
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the plugs you have in now have alot of restitance, there fore not letting all the power from the battery through to every where else. the deans will be as close to hard wiring as you get. hard wiring is when the things are all one wire. no connectors. so if you hard wired the motor to the esc, that would be taking the two peices of wire and soldering them together.
example.
hard wire
-----------------------------------
not hard wire
o is connecter not letting all power through.
------------------------------o----------------------
example.
hard wire
-----------------------------------
not hard wire
o is connecter not letting all power through.
------------------------------o----------------------
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I don't think I will hard wire the motor as I might want to use a 15 turn motor to gain runtime sometimes... plus if I hardwire it I wont get much runtime with a 7-cell ![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
But maybe a deans connecter
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But maybe a deans connecter
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I would get powerpoles that way you dont have to sodder them, and (a8mc back me up) they look better! I mean, they would be better in purple...![Wink](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif)
-Wes
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-Wes
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ORIGINAL: study session
deans =better than power poles.
deans =better than power poles.
Deans - 35amp current flow, $2-3 a pop
Sermos - 35amp current flow, $1-2 a pop
and before you ask, Sermos is the industry standard name for 'power poles'. Duratrax doesn't make them, they just sell them.
I use the sermos plugs instead of the dean's just because I've had 'em for a long time and never wanted to bother switching, nor had a reason to. I do solder mine, though.
...and for the guys who don't have a soldering iron? Get one and learn how to use it before you continue wasting money on motors that you're not taking full advantage of.
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ORIGINAL: S.A.E.W.O.T.
harwire it it's jus better... and get deans on ur batts!!!![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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harwire it it's jus better... and get deans on ur batts!!!
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
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I may get deans or powerplugs depending on what my LHS has
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That would definitely be better than the quick-connects on there now. Those silly push-in connectors are the same thing you'll find on any late 60's japanese motorcycle. Is that good or bad? Well, take a look at a new CBR1000 and see if you find one...
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and before you ask, Sermos is the industry standard name for 'power poles'.
-Sean Connery
Yes indeed they do. There the same as deans, but if we realy want to get technical, deans are about .001 amps better. Are you going to feel the difference... NOPE
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-Wes