e-maxx batterys
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ORIGINAL: rc10gbash
what batterys should i get for my e-maxx
what batterys should i get for my e-maxx
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I know there will be some ignorant fools who will *TRY* to hit me down when i say this, but what I'm about to say is backed up by personal experience, and by hundreds of other e-maxx bashers/racers.
The batteries are the HEART of the E-maxx. In the RC world, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. PERIOD. Unless you get it from a buddy or something. but that usually isnt the case...
You buy cheap, you get cheap. Would you want a weak heart in your E-Maxx? I sure don't. When you get 2 battery packs for your emaxx, new in package from a store, for around $50 or less, you are getting CHEAP, WEAK BATTERIES. You Want GOOD batteries, such as GP (Gold Peak), Sanyo, or Panasonic. ANything else, i can almost guarentee you, they will suck. (especially when you compare the performance of the cheap and good battery packs side-to-side)
The emaxx pulls A LOT of amps, and those cheap "sport" or "bashing" battery packs simply can't handle the amp loads demanded by the emaxx. They work in lighter trucks like the Stampede, which dont pull nearly as many amps as the E-Maxx
Cons of "sport" or "bashing" batteries that are really cheap:
Built cheaply
Has huge decrease in voltage when under load, which means a slower truck, and also running less efficiently.
HIGH internal resistance, which will basically cook the battery under normal driving, and charging (runs VERY hot, and can cause them to over heat, when barely driving hard)
Power decreases steadily through out the charge. If you start out going 30 MPH on fressh back, then at half charge, its only going 25 MPH, thats what i'm talking about.
Pros of "sport" or "bashing" batteries that are really cheap:
Um... low price, but that doesnt justify them being totally worthless in the E-Maxx.
Pros of using Good batteries, GP, Sanyo and Panasonic:
Usaully well built, depends on the resaler.
Minute voltage drop when underload, meaning great power and efficiency through out the run
LOW internal resistance, which means they run COOL or just barely WARM no matter how hard your driving.
Full power untill the battery is almost completely dead, when the truck will slow down a few MPH a minute before the battery is about dead, then the truck will basically just stop, from the battery being discharged. THis means you get almost 100% performance until the batteries are completely discharged.
Cons of using Good batteries, GP, Sanyo and Panasonic:
None. They only cost more, but in the end, it will be cheaper buying one pair of good batteries that will last you many hundreds of cycles, where most Cheap batteries will die after about 20 runs.
Those answers are accurate to the best of my knowledge, and anyone who disagrees with alot of it, is most likely very ignorant, and most likely is trying to get a few bucks by lieing to the masses, or simply don't know what their talking about (no pun intended).
Do with those answers as you wish. Just make the right decision
The batteries are the HEART of the E-maxx. In the RC world, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. PERIOD. Unless you get it from a buddy or something. but that usually isnt the case...
You buy cheap, you get cheap. Would you want a weak heart in your E-Maxx? I sure don't. When you get 2 battery packs for your emaxx, new in package from a store, for around $50 or less, you are getting CHEAP, WEAK BATTERIES. You Want GOOD batteries, such as GP (Gold Peak), Sanyo, or Panasonic. ANything else, i can almost guarentee you, they will suck. (especially when you compare the performance of the cheap and good battery packs side-to-side)
The emaxx pulls A LOT of amps, and those cheap "sport" or "bashing" battery packs simply can't handle the amp loads demanded by the emaxx. They work in lighter trucks like the Stampede, which dont pull nearly as many amps as the E-Maxx
Cons of "sport" or "bashing" batteries that are really cheap:
Built cheaply
Has huge decrease in voltage when under load, which means a slower truck, and also running less efficiently.
HIGH internal resistance, which will basically cook the battery under normal driving, and charging (runs VERY hot, and can cause them to over heat, when barely driving hard)
Power decreases steadily through out the charge. If you start out going 30 MPH on fressh back, then at half charge, its only going 25 MPH, thats what i'm talking about.
Pros of "sport" or "bashing" batteries that are really cheap:
Um... low price, but that doesnt justify them being totally worthless in the E-Maxx.
Pros of using Good batteries, GP, Sanyo and Panasonic:
Usaully well built, depends on the resaler.
Minute voltage drop when underload, meaning great power and efficiency through out the run
LOW internal resistance, which means they run COOL or just barely WARM no matter how hard your driving.
Full power untill the battery is almost completely dead, when the truck will slow down a few MPH a minute before the battery is about dead, then the truck will basically just stop, from the battery being discharged. THis means you get almost 100% performance until the batteries are completely discharged.
Cons of using Good batteries, GP, Sanyo and Panasonic:
None. They only cost more, but in the end, it will be cheaper buying one pair of good batteries that will last you many hundreds of cycles, where most Cheap batteries will die after about 20 runs.
Those answers are accurate to the best of my knowledge, and anyone who disagrees with alot of it, is most likely very ignorant, and most likely is trying to get a few bucks by lieing to the masses, or simply don't know what their talking about (no pun intended).
Do with those answers as you wish. Just make the right decision
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Well said, i concur. Cheap packs have little chances of surviving hard-core bashing, unless you want your emaxx to crawl, maybe they will last, maybe
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It's a shame that none of these members have used Boom Boom Batteries and yet they are making claims on their performance... Boom Boom Batteries packs are built using GP 3300s as well as silver battery bars, 13AWG wire, Dean's plugs, and Dean's racing solder. I don't think that there is any point in lecturing us when many of the members of these forums have been very happy with the performance of Boom Boom Batteries. Perhaps your points are valid concerning packs on Ebay, but not Boom Boom Batteries. I hope that in the future you will try a product before bashing it...
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Cons of "sport" or "bashing" batteries that are really cheap:
Built cheaply
Has huge decrease in voltage when under load, which means a slower truck, and also running less efficiently.
HIGH internal resistance, which will basically cook the battery under normal driving, and charging (runs VERY hot, and can cause them to over heat, when barely driving hard)
Power decreases steadily through out the charge. If you start out going 30 MPH on fressh back, then at half charge, its only going 25 MPH, thats what i'm talking about.
Built cheaply
Has huge decrease in voltage when under load, which means a slower truck, and also running less efficiently.
HIGH internal resistance, which will basically cook the battery under normal driving, and charging (runs VERY hot, and can cause them to over heat, when barely driving hard)
Power decreases steadily through out the charge. If you start out going 30 MPH on fressh back, then at half charge, its only going 25 MPH, thats what i'm talking about.
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I think you misunderstood. By cheap packs, i mean packs that are built with generic cells, they typically cost around 20 bucks or less. If you are using GP cells, then your packs fall under this category.
Hope my english is not too difficult to comprehend
.
ORIGINAL: camra88
Pros of using Good batteries, GP, Sanyo and Panasonic:
Pros of using Good batteries, GP, Sanyo and Panasonic:
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The ' Cheap packs ' rule applies to all segments of E-RC!
You can take an Evader RTR and put in a $20 pack from radio shack. The truck MIGHT just break 20mph, going down hill.
Now put in a zapped GP3300 pack, and the same truck has amazing performance!
Elmo's cells are really great for the price! I am going to order some more later this summer. I have raced every weekend since May with them, and I am VERY VERY pleased with the results.
You can take an Evader RTR and put in a $20 pack from radio shack. The truck MIGHT just break 20mph, going down hill.
Now put in a zapped GP3300 pack, and the same truck has amazing performance!
Elmo's cells are really great for the price! I am going to order some more later this summer. I have raced every weekend since May with them, and I am VERY VERY pleased with the results.
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ORIGINAL: losiracer753
why would you spend 109 or what ever when you could get bashing packs for cheaper because we all know you are not racing with a emaxx go with boomboom
why would you spend 109 or what ever when you could get bashing packs for cheaper because we all know you are not racing with a emaxx go with boomboom
I re-read the posts on this thread and I didn't read anything that quantified (good or bad) the performance of Boom Boom's batteries. They are GP cells and we all know what they are like. GREAT! The only point I tried to make was for a few dollars more you could buy matched packs, which are superior for everyone! They have been zapped, tested, graded and matched. All that for less than $5.00!
camra88 & Just Gundam - Great posts, very true!
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There is one mistake in your logic, however. The batteries your are showing us ($74.95) are rated at 1.160 to 1.164 - my batteries usually have higher voltages... Just because it is a matched pack doesn't mean its good and is automatcially better than an unmatched pack... The numbers are really the difference...To get a noticible change over my batteries you would need to buy the 1.175-1.179 which is going to cost $124.95 for 6 cell packs and $144.95 for 7 cells.... - not such a deal anymore...
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Let's not argue over whether matched but lower-voltage packs are better than higher-voltage but unmatched packs, or vice versa. Matched or high-voltage, they each serves different purposes, i won't comment on which is more important, it is really up to the basher or racer to decide. In short, if you want the best, go for matched and high-voltage packs.
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ORIGINAL: Just Gundam
Let's not argue over whether matched but lower-voltage packs are better than higher-voltage but unmatched packs, or vice versa. Matched or high-voltage, they each serves different purposes, i won't comment on which is more important, it is really up to the basher or racer to decide. In short, if you want the best, go for matched and high-voltage packs.
Let's not argue over whether matched but lower-voltage packs are better than higher-voltage but unmatched packs, or vice versa. Matched or high-voltage, they each serves different purposes, i won't comment on which is more important, it is really up to the basher or racer to decide. In short, if you want the best, go for matched and high-voltage packs.
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ORIGINAL: losiracer753
just wondering how much have you upgraded. and who would race a stock emaxx
just wondering how much have you upgraded. and who would race a stock emaxx
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ORIGINAL: losiracer753
thats cool i thought you meant stock thats why i said that sorry
thats cool i thought you meant stock thats why i said that sorry