Evader help!
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Stockbridge,
GA
Posts: 8,275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's not hard to do. If you have your owners manual the exploded diagram is in there along with instructions. If you don't have the manual then Duratrax has them online. When you take it apart be careful, those "balls" are tiny.
#4
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Riverton, UT
Posts: 955
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here is the rebuild kit
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMF0&P=ML]Evader Diff Rebuild[/link]
You can get the instructions in the evader pro manual on duratrax's website
If you don't like that price I will sell you my diff just rebuilt.
Duneslider
[link=http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAMF0&P=ML]Evader Diff Rebuild[/link]
You can get the instructions in the evader pro manual on duratrax's website
If you don't like that price I will sell you my diff just rebuilt.
Duneslider
#6
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Riverton, UT
Posts: 955
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Really I was more kidding. Trannies go for about thirty with shipping on ebay. The rebuild kit goes for seven. Why buy a new one? Why do you think you need to rebuild your current diff? What problems are you having?
Duneslider
Duneslider
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Southern,
IL
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Well i was out bashing in the yard and it just stopped, Not the motor just the truck. Like the gears turn but not the wheels.So i took it my LHS and they told me that the diff. was slipping and I need to rebuild it. Well here I am.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Stockbridge,
GA
Posts: 8,275
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Pull the tranny out, take it apart and look at the gears. It really sounds like it may be a stripped idler gear (the middle one) rather than a bad diff.
Just my thoughts.
Just my thoughts.
#10
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Riverton, UT
Posts: 955
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Check your slipper too. They have a tendancy to loosen up. I can't imagine the photon speed stripping the idler gear. It could happen though. Make sure the slipper is properly tightened and in good working order.
Do you have the pro or regular evader?
Later
Duneslider
Do you have the pro or regular evader?
Later
Duneslider
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Southern,
IL
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
checked them both, I'm tellin ya the diff. is slipping. I no longer run the Photon moter It is a Tram Orion 14x2 turn with a Novak Cyclone ESC. I have had this thing radared at 30 MPH.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: eureka,
CA
Posts: 2,798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: Crash 81 10
checked them both, I'm tellin ya the diff. is slipping. I no longer run the Photon moter It is a Tram Orion 14x2 turn with a Novak Cyclone ESC. I have had this thing radared at 30 MPH.
checked them both, I'm tellin ya the diff. is slipping. I no longer run the Photon moter It is a Tram Orion 14x2 turn with a Novak Cyclone ESC. I have had this thing radared at 30 MPH.
Yeah it sounds like it's slipping cause it should be faster than that. Have you tried adjusting the diff with the allen wrench to make sure it didn't loosen up?
#14
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Lithonia, GA
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think i am having the same problem as Crash 81 10 . i have a gtb 5.5 in my st pro.
How do you know if it is the slipper or the diff.
I took everything apart and since i am not a pro i cant tell if there is anything wrong with the diff or not because i never had reason to open it while it was working properly so i dont know how it should look.
it does look rather dry where the bearings are. So when rebuildong do you just take all the bearings out and clean everything or do i need to buy that rebuilder kit
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAMF0&P=ML
and start over?
How do you know if it is the slipper or the diff.
I took everything apart and since i am not a pro i cant tell if there is anything wrong with the diff or not because i never had reason to open it while it was working properly so i dont know how it should look.
it does look rather dry where the bearings are. So when rebuildong do you just take all the bearings out and clean everything or do i need to buy that rebuilder kit
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAMF0&P=ML
and start over?
#16
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Riverton, UT
Posts: 955
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes you should use the kit. Usually it is just the rings that seem to wear out. The whole kit is cheap and you know it comes clean and lubed. Seven bucks isn't bad. Also, that spring can wear out and not hold it tight enough.
Check out this link and read the how-to on adjusting the diff and slipper. The evader diff can sometimes be a pain to get it adjusted.
[link=http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/]Evader Diff link[/link]
Also, did you rule out the idler gear? When you open up the diff you can easily tell if the idler is bad.
The diff shouldn't be totally dry, it needs to be lubed. Most use the white grease.
Later
Duneslider
Check out this link and read the how-to on adjusting the diff and slipper. The evader diff can sometimes be a pain to get it adjusted.
[link=http://www.usd.edu/~cgutzman/evader/]Evader Diff link[/link]
Also, did you rule out the idler gear? When you open up the diff you can easily tell if the idler is bad.
The diff shouldn't be totally dry, it needs to be lubed. Most use the white grease.
Later
Duneslider
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: eureka,
CA
Posts: 2,798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: Crash 81 10
ok so I found out i need a complete new diff. anybody got one
ok so I found out i need a complete new diff. anybody got one
Why do you need a "complete new diff"? Can't you rebuild yours? I just took mine apart for the first time today cause it was making a load rattle sound. The idler was stripped is all so I have an aluminum one coming for it. You may want to put one in too if you are running a hotter motor.
#22
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Riverton, UT
Posts: 955
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Why do you need everything except what comes in the kit. The top shaft is nearly indestructable. The idler gear should be fine (because you said it was) but a new alum. would be a good upgrade. The bearings should all be just fine. The tranny case, if broken, is only a couple bucks. So, I ask again, why do you need the whole entire tranny? The only problems you seem to have are with the diff. Which the rebuild will fix. Maybe you should explain what is wrong.
Duneslider
Duneslider
#25
Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Why do you need a "complete new diff"? Can't you rebuild yours? I just took mine apart for the first time today cause it was making a load rattle sound. The idler was stripped is all so I have an aluminum one coming for it. You may want to put one in too if you are running a hotter motor.
thank you.