MeanMustang

Hello everyone, what are the basic setup tools that I'll need to purchase to have a well-setup 30 sized heli? I understand that I'll need a pitch guage to set pitch on main blades from 0 to about 12 deg for basic hovering. Do I need to invest in a blade balancer? If yes and I find my blades to be out of balance, what do I do to get it to balance? Anything else that I should get?

ChopperMike

I personally believe you should have a balancer (Dubro or Hipoint style) and balance the whole rotor head and main shaft as a unit. You can however do a fairly good job using the method of bolting the blades together with a long bolt and balancing it on 2 water glasses. A good set of allen wrenches is essential, I prefer to use the hardened tip individual style wrenches. A ball link tool is important so you don't damage the links trying to remove them with needle nose pliers or whatever. The usual screwdrivers, etc.


Mike


Hirobo Sceadu Evo 50
O.S. 50 SX-H
GY 410
Shogun 400
Himax 2025-4200 brushless
GY240
Futaba 9C

MeanMustang

Thanks Mike! I think I saw a pic of that glass balancing act on another thread. What do u do if u find them to be out of balance?

TuNeD PiPe

You stick tape(you can use any tape as long as it stick to the blades strong enough) to the lighter blade until they are balanced.it is a process of trial and error but very important.

ChopperMike

And as far as where you put the balancing tape, put it on he lengthwise balance point of the blade. To find it, set a razor blade on edge and place the rotor blade on the razor blade and move it back and forth until it balances. Then mark this spot. Do the other blade and then set them side by side and check to see that the two balance points and very close, within a 1-2 mm. If they are not, it may be difficult to get a perfect balance. In this case, I'm not sure what you do to correct it because I've never had a set of blades not match up like this.

The reason for putting the balance tape on this lengthwise balance point when balancing the blades to each other is so that you don't upset the dynamic balance of the system. If you put the tape just anywhere, they may look good statically but have vibration when run up.

Hope this helps.


Mike

MeanMustang

Mike, I can understand the rationale for balancing the blade to get its CG and then applying the tapes there so the weight of them runs thru' this CG. However, I noticed that most people have tapes ONLY on their outer edges of the blades? I understand that these are tracking tapes. Do they also serve as balancing tapes? So, if a heli shakes violently while speeding up from idle, is it indicative of a tracking or weight mis-match problem or both?

Kreeve

the tools got side tracked a bit so here ya go off the top of my head, assorted screw drivers, hex drivers ( us or metric based on heli but for every bolt on the bird and motor) , ball link tool, pliers, plug wrench and dont laugh i found a light hammer like a tack hammer is great for the odd job i have done with all models, dont forget a small tape measure or ruler and a small bubble level ( some will clip right to fly bar) or torpedo level.

not to step on toes here but check http://www.raptortechnique.com they have a section listing alot of the basic tools and nice to have tools. finally some may argue the point but i work with my hands and hand tools all day, dont buy cheap tools, buy quality tools from the start and your life will go alot smoother, esp when that 99 cent hex driver rounds off the bolt that is torgued into a tight spot at 8000 ft/lbs.

MeanMustang

Thanks for the advice Kreeve. However, I'm confused as to what the bubble level is for. I'm guessing its for balancing the heli like we do with planes when we make sure its balance at the CG.

wisdom-seeker

The bubble level is to insure that the flybar is level while making pitch measurements. However, you must have two other conditions true as well. The heli must be setting on a level surface, and the swash plate must also be level front to back and side to side. What this does is to cancel out the influence of the flybar and the cyclic in order to make an accurate pitch measurement.

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

FYI 12 deg is alot of pitch for a 30, try 9 or 10. With 0 to neg 2 on the bottom.

When you set it up, set up your colective for its full mechanical limit, +9 or 10 to -9 or -10. Then use your pitch curves in your radio to tune your low end. Start with 0 and add more negative as you start flying around and getting comfortable. That way when you progess, the only thing you have to do to change your setup is go into your pitch curve without messing with the mechanical setup again.

MeanMustang

All makes better sense to me now... Thanks a million everyone!