Eurosport Mods Continued....
08-21-2003, 06:57 PM
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Thought I would throw these out there as well........
1) Since the EuroSport fuse is quite thin and there is a huge engine bay area that tends to hold some heat, It is wise to add a heat shield to the top side of the fuse above the turbine and turbine/pipe junction. BVM sells a 12" x 24" ceramic blanket that serves this purpose nicely (I believe around 10.00). To attach the blanket to the fuse, just use some beads of permatex liquid gasket (RED, for high heat usage). You can also run your air lines and extensions under the blanket to protect them from heat exposure! Great insurance at low cost.
2) The Canards..... during the early stages of playing with the euro, I managed to break (bend is more like it
)both canards . If I got too hard on my brakes one tended to grab better than the other during their break-in period. A slight tip to one side caused impact of the canard to the ground, since they are hollow they snapped just outward of the torsion rod. An easy fix for this (during the build) would be to laminate a 1/32 ply plate (med CA works fine) to both the top and bottom (internally, use the canard as a template then trim back an additional 1/4" on all sides) of the canard before assembling the torsion shaft and outer rib. This sufficiently reinforces the canard structure so they don't snap should you tip the plane.
If you manage to break one and have not reinforced them already You can easily repair it by cutting the canard in half at the crack and laminating in some ply to the top and bottom of the seam on one side of the canard and then glue the two halves back together making sure you sufficiently glue the laminates to both halves. Some med CA and Cabosil works nicely as a filler in any low or missing spots.
Don't forget to check the factory glue joints on a regular basis!!!
Todd
1) Since the EuroSport fuse is quite thin and there is a huge engine bay area that tends to hold some heat, It is wise to add a heat shield to the top side of the fuse above the turbine and turbine/pipe junction. BVM sells a 12" x 24" ceramic blanket that serves this purpose nicely (I believe around 10.00). To attach the blanket to the fuse, just use some beads of permatex liquid gasket (RED, for high heat usage). You can also run your air lines and extensions under the blanket to protect them from heat exposure! Great insurance at low cost.
2) The Canards..... during the early stages of playing with the euro, I managed to break (bend is more like it
)both canards . If I got too hard on my brakes one tended to grab better than the other during their break-in period. A slight tip to one side caused impact of the canard to the ground, since they are hollow they snapped just outward of the torsion rod. An easy fix for this (during the build) would be to laminate a 1/32 ply plate (med CA works fine) to both the top and bottom (internally, use the canard as a template then trim back an additional 1/4" on all sides) of the canard before assembling the torsion shaft and outer rib. This sufficiently reinforces the canard structure so they don't snap should you tip the plane. If you manage to break one and have not reinforced them already You can easily repair it by cutting the canard in half at the crack and laminating in some ply to the top and bottom of the seam on one side of the canard and then glue the two halves back together making sure you sufficiently glue the laminates to both halves. Some med CA and Cabosil works nicely as a filler in any low or missing spots.
Don't forget to check the factory glue joints on a regular basis!!!
Todd
08-21-2003, 07:18 PM
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hi Todd
Once again we are of like minds. I painted BVM heat shield to the inner upper surfaces and then stuck some kitchen foil to reflect the heat back. I also cut a set of small holes around the rear former where the bifurcated pipe outlets are mounted, certainly keeps thinks cool on the fus surface.
Not had the problem with the canards (yet!) but thanks for the idea.
I changed from intairco wheels to eurokit wheels as the intairco tyres were too hard
Keep flying and congratulations
Ian
Once again we are of like minds. I painted BVM heat shield to the inner upper surfaces and then stuck some kitchen foil to reflect the heat back. I also cut a set of small holes around the rear former where the bifurcated pipe outlets are mounted, certainly keeps thinks cool on the fus surface.
Not had the problem with the canards (yet!) but thanks for the idea.
I changed from intairco wheels to eurokit wheels as the intairco tyres were too hard
Keep flying and congratulations
Ian
08-22-2003, 12:16 AM
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Ian,
I had originally painted part of the engine compartment with heat shield and found the fuse still got quite warm on startup, especially around the turbine/pipe joint. While the alum foil is good for reflecting radiant heat, should you have a wet start or a flame burp out the front or back of the engine the foil will actually conduct the heat, not dissipate it. This is why I chose to use ceramic blanket as it will protect the fuse for heat or flame. I've also noticed some flex marks in the fuse right above the motor, probably due to this area getting warm in flight (Florinda sun/temps dosent help either) In addition, since I am now running a P-160 in the ES which is a hotter running motor I can use all the heat protection I can get.
What is the price of the eurokit wheels? Any pictures of them? What kind of brake mechanism? I dont have a problem with the interairco wheels, I kinda like the hardness of them (show very little wear even after all my flying!) but always like to know what other options are available
Have you mastered the High alpha yet?
Great to hear from you! and thanks....
Regards,
Todd
I had originally painted part of the engine compartment with heat shield and found the fuse still got quite warm on startup, especially around the turbine/pipe joint. While the alum foil is good for reflecting radiant heat, should you have a wet start or a flame burp out the front or back of the engine the foil will actually conduct the heat, not dissipate it. This is why I chose to use ceramic blanket as it will protect the fuse for heat or flame. I've also noticed some flex marks in the fuse right above the motor, probably due to this area getting warm in flight (Florinda sun/temps dosent help either) In addition, since I am now running a P-160 in the ES which is a hotter running motor I can use all the heat protection I can get.
What is the price of the eurokit wheels? Any pictures of them? What kind of brake mechanism? I dont have a problem with the interairco wheels, I kinda like the hardness of them (show very little wear even after all my flying!) but always like to know what other options are available
Have you mastered the High alpha yet?
Great to hear from you! and thanks....
Regards,
Todd
08-22-2003, 05:52 AM
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Hi Todd
Good point ref the hot start issue. I may change to the blanket idea
Eurokit wheels I obtained from motors and rotors here in the UK.
www.motorsandrotors.com. Go to jet kits and then accessories.
it shows the wheels and the brakes. Dave W does sell the wheels and insets and brakes seprarate without the legs. drop him an email and he will give you the prices. (ps I have no connection with them other than a customer)
I used the 90 mm on the mains, they also provide as an option foam inserts to stiffen the tyres a little, which I recommend. The brakes are very good and are like a form of single sided disc brake, very effective I would use some kind of proportional brake valve as they have the power to lock the wheels with resulting flat spots !!
I painted mine scale as DA2 so it is black, we have had it hot (mid 90's) here in England but I would not recommend the colour for your area as I think the external fuselage uncovered would get hotter than an internal hot start !!!!
Hi alpha mastered -ish with some breeze, trying to go a little quicker with a high alpha roll, if you see pictures of the full size this is very impressive. Problem is getting the entry speed correct for high alpha but still maintaining a consistent direction in and out of the roll. But it is a great model to keep practicing with.
Ian
Good point ref the hot start issue. I may change to the blanket idea
Eurokit wheels I obtained from motors and rotors here in the UK.
www.motorsandrotors.com. Go to jet kits and then accessories.
it shows the wheels and the brakes. Dave W does sell the wheels and insets and brakes seprarate without the legs. drop him an email and he will give you the prices. (ps I have no connection with them other than a customer)
I used the 90 mm on the mains, they also provide as an option foam inserts to stiffen the tyres a little, which I recommend. The brakes are very good and are like a form of single sided disc brake, very effective I would use some kind of proportional brake valve as they have the power to lock the wheels with resulting flat spots !!
I painted mine scale as DA2 so it is black, we have had it hot (mid 90's) here in England but I would not recommend the colour for your area as I think the external fuselage uncovered would get hotter than an internal hot start !!!!
Hi alpha mastered -ish with some breeze, trying to go a little quicker with a high alpha roll, if you see pictures of the full size this is very impressive. Problem is getting the entry speed correct for high alpha but still maintaining a consistent direction in and out of the roll. But it is a great model to keep practicing with.
Ian
08-22-2003, 06:31 AM
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Exhaust
Hello.
What kind of exhaust pipe do you guys use. I use the one that comes with the kit, and I have never had any problem with the heat. (I have about 60 flights now) My ES is powered by a SimJet 3000 (30 lbs thust)
What distance do you have between the engine and the tailpipe?
I have found that on my setup I get maximum thrust with the tailpipe openning 25 mm behind the turbine. Has anyone done experiments with that?
What kind of exhaust pipe do you guys use. I use the one that comes with the kit, and I have never had any problem with the heat. (I have about 60 flights now) My ES is powered by a SimJet 3000 (30 lbs thust)
What distance do you have between the engine and the tailpipe?
I have found that on my setup I get maximum thrust with the tailpipe openning 25 mm behind the turbine. Has anyone done experiments with that?
08-22-2003, 04:48 PM
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Hi Stig
I use tam's Bifurcated pipe more scale than the single. Tam recommends about 15mm (0.4 inch) from turbine to front of bell mouth. I have not had any heat build up even using a Jetcat 160.
I think we operate in a cooler environment than Todd in USA
Ian
I use tam's Bifurcated pipe more scale than the single. Tam recommends about 15mm (0.4 inch) from turbine to front of bell mouth. I have not had any heat build up even using a Jetcat 160.
I think we operate in a cooler environment than Todd in USA
Ian
08-22-2003, 05:12 PM
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Hi Todd
Ref the Eurokit wheels if you use this link and scroll down you will see some pictures
www.ukjets.org/news.html
Ian
Ref the Eurokit wheels if you use this link and scroll down you will see some pictures
www.ukjets.org/news.html
Ian
08-22-2003, 06:30 PM
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Stig,
Like Ian, I am using a Tams pipe but not the Bifrucated. Since I recieved basically one of the first ES kits in the states, mine included a Tams pipe at that time. I believe Ian may be correct in that I suffer much higher operating temps here in Florida than you guys and therefore the heat issue may be more of a problem for me than most... My flying weather in the summer is 90 to 98 deg with very strong sun. My fuse gets a bit soft just sitting in the sun...any additional heat is avoided if at all possible I have not experimented with the 120 pipe distance but do plan to play with it a bit on the 160, I'll post what I find to be the best setting when I find it...
Thanks for the links Ian!
Todd
Like Ian, I am using a Tams pipe but not the Bifrucated. Since I recieved basically one of the first ES kits in the states, mine included a Tams pipe at that time. I believe Ian may be correct in that I suffer much higher operating temps here in Florida than you guys and therefore the heat issue may be more of a problem for me than most... My flying weather in the summer is 90 to 98 deg with very strong sun. My fuse gets a bit soft just sitting in the sun...any additional heat is avoided if at all possible
I have not experimented with the 120 pipe distance but do plan to play with it a bit on the 160, I'll post what I find to be the best setting when I find it...Thanks for the links Ian!
Todd
