CARF Eurosport Options
#1
Thread Starter
CARF Eurosport Options
Apologies in advance if this has already been done to death!!
I'm thinking about buying myself a Eurosport for christmas and am keen to know peoples opinions on the best stuff to fit it out with. I know that there are a lot of threads out there about this but I'm not too sure what relates to the latest version of kit.
Is the CARF (Intairco?) gear set the best one to go with?
Do I need intakes and, if so, are the Intairco ones still the best option or are the latest CARF ones better?
I don't want too much bling but does anyone supply a good lighting set for it?
Thanks,
I'm thinking about buying myself a Eurosport for christmas and am keen to know peoples opinions on the best stuff to fit it out with. I know that there are a lot of threads out there about this but I'm not too sure what relates to the latest version of kit.
Is the CARF (Intairco?) gear set the best one to go with?
Do I need intakes and, if so, are the Intairco ones still the best option or are the latest CARF ones better?
I don't want too much bling but does anyone supply a good lighting set for it?
Thanks,
#4
Darren, I have just started building one for John & the new intakes
are a pig , the fit where they touch,
Would but quicker build if you leave them out , but they say
it fly,s better with them fitted.
Rgds Martin.
are a pig , the fit where they touch,
Would but quicker build if you leave them out , but they say
it fly,s better with them fitted.
Rgds Martin.
#5
i fly mine without the intakes and 2.4l juice bottles as fuel tanks, no speed brake either. I also had one with intakes and bought fuel tanks and i'm no expert but I couldnt tell the difference. I can tell the differnece though when powered by a kingtech 210 and igyro installed is a dream to fly and performance is outstanding.
#6
I used Intairco retracts wheels and brakes with prolink struts.
I put Intairco's ducting in. It is a fiddly job but the good thing about them is that the back part are removable.
Would I do it again...Sort of, I would only add the front ducting in as it looks really neat but cut back how far it goes into the fuse.
I saw quite a few different Euro's flying at Temora jets this year with and without ducting, including one flying on a KT210 (no ducting on this one) and didn't really notice any difference in how hey each flew.
I just find I am very restricted within the airframe with them in and can make working in the fuse hard. Each to their own but this just my opinion.
Cheers
Jeremy
I put Intairco's ducting in. It is a fiddly job but the good thing about them is that the back part are removable.
Would I do it again...Sort of, I would only add the front ducting in as it looks really neat but cut back how far it goes into the fuse.
I saw quite a few different Euro's flying at Temora jets this year with and without ducting, including one flying on a KT210 (no ducting on this one) and didn't really notice any difference in how hey each flew.
I just find I am very restricted within the airframe with them in and can make working in the fuse hard. Each to their own but this just my opinion.
Cheers
Jeremy
#7
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i fly mine without the intakes and 2.4l juice bottles as fuel tanks, no speed brake either. I also had one with intakes and bought fuel tanks and i'm no expert but I couldnt tell the difference. I can tell the differnece though when powered by a kingtech 210 and igyro installed is a dream to fly and performance is outstanding.
How much flying time with the 210?
Matt
#10
HI Matt,
I haven't has a chance to fly it yet since putting the new 140 in. Hoping to fly it soon, weather has not been great.
I've seen one at our field which is a gen 1 euro and an old K140 in it and it goes great. Mine came in at about 13kg dry
Jeremy
I haven't has a chance to fly it yet since putting the new 140 in. Hoping to fly it soon, weather has not been great.
I've seen one at our field which is a gen 1 euro and an old K140 in it and it goes great. Mine came in at about 13kg dry
Jeremy
#11
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Ok, I was thinking along the lines of a K140, I've ordered the same colour as you and the Intairco/prolink gear/brake set. Not gonna worry about using intakes, keep simple and lighter.
Matt
Matt
#13
standard thrust tube that comes with the kit, prolink oleo's on mains (my opinion only the weakest link) xicoy nose oleo with electron er50's (no evo50's) as retracts, intairco wheels and intairco electric brakes.
#15
I´m now building my second Eurosport and I am going to make it much like I did the old one. This new one is an Evolution “Jolly Roger” scheme. The old one was low visibility grey and ended its life in a birch three as **** sometimes happends. It will have full CARF inlet ducting. Not because it make much difference but because I like it and it looks scale. It is not so difficult to fit as long as one takes ones time.
I always use Pro Link oleos and Intairco wheels in my jets because I am very fond of them and I think that they are superb. I also take the disadvantage of buying them from the other side of the pond just because Dreamworks in USA is such a friendly and reliable company to do business with. Thanks Linda! In this new jet I will also use their Pro Link pneumatic retracts. I choose pneumatic versus Electric because of weight reasons.
Last season I tried electric wheel brakes from Xicoy in Spain in another jet and found them very nice so I´ll have a pair of those as well.
Then I am going to do a functional airbrake even thou it is a lot of work. It is rather worthless as an airbrake but it functions as a nice hatch with a compartment behind it where one can hide pneumatics, fuelsystem, hoppertank etc. Furthermore I mount the whole airbrake mechanics on a tray that can be easily removed and so giving me access to the inside of the hull witch otherwise is difficult to reach in the Eurosport.
My old Euro flow with a Jet Cat P-120 witch was completely enough considering my age. To begin with, this new one, will get my Jet Cat P-100 because I already have it and I am fully convinced that it will be just fine with it. Although my perverted soul craves for more power so I probably will get something more immature in the future. I am looking at the Kingtech K-210.
I have also been advised in this forum that the original thrust tube will outstand the forces of a really big engine so I don´t intend to change it for something else. But I will underline that I don´t have personal experience of that.
Last season I swapped my Weatronic setup for a Jeti system because I got fed up with waiting for Wea to come up whit a tray transmitter. And as I still haven’t seen any trace of such a device from Wea I am going to outfit my new Euro with something appropriate from the Jeti line and perhaps with their expected gyros. At least, this my plan so far.
Happy X-mas to all of you!
Jannica in Sweden
I always use Pro Link oleos and Intairco wheels in my jets because I am very fond of them and I think that they are superb. I also take the disadvantage of buying them from the other side of the pond just because Dreamworks in USA is such a friendly and reliable company to do business with. Thanks Linda! In this new jet I will also use their Pro Link pneumatic retracts. I choose pneumatic versus Electric because of weight reasons.
Last season I tried electric wheel brakes from Xicoy in Spain in another jet and found them very nice so I´ll have a pair of those as well.
Then I am going to do a functional airbrake even thou it is a lot of work. It is rather worthless as an airbrake but it functions as a nice hatch with a compartment behind it where one can hide pneumatics, fuelsystem, hoppertank etc. Furthermore I mount the whole airbrake mechanics on a tray that can be easily removed and so giving me access to the inside of the hull witch otherwise is difficult to reach in the Eurosport.
My old Euro flow with a Jet Cat P-120 witch was completely enough considering my age. To begin with, this new one, will get my Jet Cat P-100 because I already have it and I am fully convinced that it will be just fine with it. Although my perverted soul craves for more power so I probably will get something more immature in the future. I am looking at the Kingtech K-210.
I have also been advised in this forum that the original thrust tube will outstand the forces of a really big engine so I don´t intend to change it for something else. But I will underline that I don´t have personal experience of that.
Last season I swapped my Weatronic setup for a Jeti system because I got fed up with waiting for Wea to come up whit a tray transmitter. And as I still haven’t seen any trace of such a device from Wea I am going to outfit my new Euro with something appropriate from the Jeti line and perhaps with their expected gyros. At least, this my plan so far.
Happy X-mas to all of you!
Jannica in Sweden
#16
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As you kow Darren, I have spent a lot of my life flying Euros. You do not need the ductings and as Martin has said,they are a b***h to fit. However. having had models with and without the model flies smoother with them.
I have also had the model with and without the airbrake and there are two reasons to fit it. One is that landing can be shorter and a higher throttle position maintained on approach. It is particularly useful if you have a short field to land on as it make the whole approach more managable. The other benefit is that it allows more access. I made mine so that it snapped off for access and the floor was held in with just four screws. I will use an Firgelli actuator to drive it this time as the one problem I had was the long air cylinder being unreliable.
And yes it looks cool too. I am fitting the TJ20 so I just got a very nice high flow pipe from Grummania. I am planning on fitting an Igyro so that the flights will be a bit smoother. I don't really notice it that much from the ground, but when you see the onboard video it is really twitchy.
I have used Intairco Wheels and brakes on both models and they have been great. I used Robats retracts on the first model and they worked fine for 7 years. I have Behotecs in the current model and they show every sign of having similar longevity.
John
I have also had the model with and without the airbrake and there are two reasons to fit it. One is that landing can be shorter and a higher throttle position maintained on approach. It is particularly useful if you have a short field to land on as it make the whole approach more managable. The other benefit is that it allows more access. I made mine so that it snapped off for access and the floor was held in with just four screws. I will use an Firgelli actuator to drive it this time as the one problem I had was the long air cylinder being unreliable.
And yes it looks cool too. I am fitting the TJ20 so I just got a very nice high flow pipe from Grummania. I am planning on fitting an Igyro so that the flights will be a bit smoother. I don't really notice it that much from the ground, but when you see the onboard video it is really twitchy.
I have used Intairco Wheels and brakes on both models and they have been great. I used Robats retracts on the first model and they worked fine for 7 years. I have Behotecs in the current model and they show every sign of having similar longevity.
John
Last edited by JohnMac; 12-14-2014 at 04:28 AM.
#18
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Just ordered a K 180 for this jet.
Question is what servos are every one using?
I'm not gonna run a powerbox or anything, will use my JR/Spekrum powersafe 9 ch jobbie. Proven to be a good reliable rx system.
Matt.
Question is what servos are every one using?
I'm not gonna run a powerbox or anything, will use my JR/Spekrum powersafe 9 ch jobbie. Proven to be a good reliable rx system.
Matt.
#19
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Just ordered the dorsal airbrake kit and new intakes for my eurosport evo.
I appreciate they will be a pita to fit, but I'm sure my master builder ginger friend will help me.
The airbrake will provide a convenient hatch for charging, air, fuel valve etc.
The intakes may improve buffeting and rolling tendencies.
Xicoy afterburner rings, and V-led domed screw in nav lights.
http://uk.farnell.com/productimages/...1649497-40.jpg
2 x Landing lights on main oleos or gear doors.
As for the gyro, it's a toss up between Cortex and iGyro-3e
I appreciate they will be a pita to fit, but I'm sure my master builder ginger friend will help me.
The airbrake will provide a convenient hatch for charging, air, fuel valve etc.
The intakes may improve buffeting and rolling tendencies.
Xicoy afterburner rings, and V-led domed screw in nav lights.
http://uk.farnell.com/productimages/...1649497-40.jpg
2 x Landing lights on main oleos or gear doors.
As for the gyro, it's a toss up between Cortex and iGyro-3e
Last edited by Couch Potato; 12-15-2014 at 03:12 AM.
#20
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I have a Euro thats 9-years old. I live in Colorado and fly at 5000 ft.elevation. My Euro has a Jet Cat 120 and flies with good authority with full intake ducts form Tam's. I also have an air brake and use it for high alpha demo. I do not use a bifercated pipe.
At half fuel I have very good vertical. I really like the way it flies and and landings are nice and slow, just watch your sink rate.
Good luck!
At half fuel I have very good vertical. I really like the way it flies and and landings are nice and slow, just watch your sink rate.
Good luck!
#21
savox-sv-1270tg-high-voltage-monster-torque-titanium-gears all round. i did not split the elevons and only use one servo per side on wing. more choices for YOU to make.
you will get differing opinions on options. go with what you feel comfortable with.
you will get differing opinions on options. go with what you feel comfortable with.
#23
Thread Starter
What is the general consensus about trailing link vs straight struts for this model?
The videos that I have seen with trailing links fitted often show quite a pronounced 'nodding nose' on take off which looks a bit odd. I have mixed feelings about trailing links in general; on one hand they do undoubtedly save the model in the event of a dodgy landing but, in my experience, they do require more maintenance than a straight strut.
Has anyone used a combination with trailing links on the mains and a straight strut on the nose?
The videos that I have seen with trailing links fitted often show quite a pronounced 'nodding nose' on take off which looks a bit odd. I have mixed feelings about trailing links in general; on one hand they do undoubtedly save the model in the event of a dodgy landing but, in my experience, they do require more maintenance than a straight strut.
Has anyone used a combination with trailing links on the mains and a straight strut on the nose?