SM f-18c Flaps
06-23-2006, 08:48 PM
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SM f-18c Flaps
Did the new hidden flap system easy to do?
did the slot in the fuselage was made on yours when it arrived?
got any pics of you system??
cheers,
Phil
did the slot in the fuselage was made on yours when it arrived?
got any pics of you system??
cheers,
Phil
06-24-2006, 04:53 AM
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RE: SM f-18c Flaps
Eray's right, you must place them in the wing. It's not much work, and well worth it from reliability and safety point of view.
Regards,
Richard
Regards,
Richard
06-25-2006, 03:57 AM
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RE: SM f-18c Flaps
Pics as per your request Phil and for others:
The cutout is a 70mm x 60mm parallelogram with one side parallel to the cord, the other parallel to the TE. The channel cut out for the servo arm however, is perpendicular to the TE.
The cutout is reinforced with 4mm ply all around, overlapping the wing skin underneath for 1cm or more all around (depends on obstacles inside. They also have a 4mm spacer to drop them 4mm below the surface of the skin to accept the 4mm blocks on the plate. These strutcture is made from four plates which get epoxied in there, with the cutouts required for the servo's fitment and free operation. See the pics for clarity.
The servo plate uses the cutout material (so make the cut neat), and then has four 15mm square 4mm ply blocks in each corner to support the bolt/screw. Lay some carbon strand around all the edges to 4mm thickness to reinforce it. Get hold of a mill, and mill out the channel for the servo arm travel, or alternatively do it very carefully by hand. Finally countersink and fuelproof.
See pics for clarity. The resulting mechanism is very robust, slop free, and a far cry above the suggested method. The supplied servo arm covers can be used if you want to hide the control rods.
Regards,
Richard
The cutout is a 70mm x 60mm parallelogram with one side parallel to the cord, the other parallel to the TE. The channel cut out for the servo arm however, is perpendicular to the TE.
The cutout is reinforced with 4mm ply all around, overlapping the wing skin underneath for 1cm or more all around (depends on obstacles inside. They also have a 4mm spacer to drop them 4mm below the surface of the skin to accept the 4mm blocks on the plate. These strutcture is made from four plates which get epoxied in there, with the cutouts required for the servo's fitment and free operation. See the pics for clarity.
The servo plate uses the cutout material (so make the cut neat), and then has four 15mm square 4mm ply blocks in each corner to support the bolt/screw. Lay some carbon strand around all the edges to 4mm thickness to reinforce it. Get hold of a mill, and mill out the channel for the servo arm travel, or alternatively do it very carefully by hand. Finally countersink and fuelproof.
See pics for clarity. The resulting mechanism is very robust, slop free, and a far cry above the suggested method. The supplied servo arm covers can be used if you want to hide the control rods.
Regards,
Richard
