karrick

I ran MIP shiny CVDs on my N-Rusty for about a dozen tanks of bashing and cracked the CVD at the pin hole that connects to the axle. I assumed that they should last longer than that?? I guess its possible that the set screw backed out of the bushing (I used blue loctite when I installed the set screws) and allowed the pin to fall out of one side and causing the failure. What a waste of $35 IMO....[&o] Anyone else see this failure....

GT-Power

My Feedback: (3)

yes thats why you buy CVD booties or put a peice of heat shrink tubing over the arm to keep the pin in place. I have seen them come out and cause alotta nasty damage![&:] if you are running a RC10GT a dude on the e-b-a-y is selling them in 1/4" diameter for 20 bucks.

Also they are fine for bashing. They are just as good if not better than dogbones! you just need to keep them cleaned and lubed after a day of running. Also keep the heat shrink tubing on there like i said and you will keep your CVD's in great shape for a long time!

karrick

cleaned and lubed after a day of running .. . . . .Ooops I have since installed my old factory dogbone drive shafts since. Ifin I go back to the CVDs, I will definately look into some shrinktube/boots.

thanks
K

ncgrunt

It sounds like it probably was the screw coming out that did you in. A lot of people have trouble with that even when they use red loctite. Oh well, experience is the best teacher, even if'n it gets expensive.

YZF Desert

To keep the pin from slipping out of the pin hole you can grind a little flat spot in the middle of the pin and tighten the set screw onto the flat spot and the pin should stay in place. I also bought heat shrink tubing and made a boot for it just in case the pin slips out. I have had my MIP cvds for about seven years and never had anything break on them.