Whoa G

I was just having that problem today! my truck would only run with the ignitor on, or throttle applied. i tried adjusting the idle (which is probably what you should do), and when that didn't fix it, i started ruling out the possibilites, i was getting fuel, radio was fine, idle screw was fine, but there was oil on the block, carb, and the lower fins of the head. Lo and behold, my glow plug was loose, or at least i thought . . . i tightened it, and it was already tight, that didn't fix it. then i remembered, in my laziness in cleaning the truck (just before going to bed), i forgot to replace the copper washer on the plug before re-installing it. i went and got the washer, stuck it back in, cleaned off the partially burnt nitro around the plug (to make sure i could see any new stuff), and that cured it. it still needs some adjustment, but it's running good, cooler too.

Just try adjusting your idle screw, it's the one on the carb with the spring around it, clockwise raises idle RPM, counterclockwise lowers idle RPM.

RcRacer37E

go back to the stock setting. lol, I dont rmemeber them, 3 on the low and 5 on the high? double check the numbers, start from there. The t15 I had nothing but troubles with from about half a gallon on till I tossed it hard at the wall. I went out and got a OS engine, holds a firgen tune forever, only with major temp swings will you need to play with the settings.
But to get you going again, set carb back to factor settings, check the plug for the ring (I too have forgot or assumed it was there) and that it glows for you, and you should be set.

RcRacer37E

Hey, first race of the year (well for me anyhow) is tomarrow night. I kept chewing up the bev gears in the rear end, 3 sets now. Not sure why, only thing I can figure is Im putting way to much grease in it. Anyway, I plan on getting pic and video, and putting my rush on the podium, 1 2 or 3, doesnt matter.
Anyone eles race the rush?

Whoa G

do you have enough shims in that diff? i'm running two in each side now, gives a better mesh.

Stock settings are flush on lsn, and 3 out from closed on hsn for the T-15

Mitchell91

no, its just a link to HPI europe i dont know why they use the .tv thing

RcRacer37E

I went and bought a servo saver for the rustler and slapped it on the rush, so far so go.

nubtast

i dont really know what you mean when you say 3 out from closed on the hsn for the t-15 and stock settings are flush on the isn

*Nitromaniac*

Thanks Nascardad!

I have super glued of a total of 4-5 mm inside the main chasisplate, and around the hole that you see the servoscrew through. now I have about 0.5 mm gap between the lower surface of the servosaver and the top surface of the washer. this gives the lower part of the servosaver no room to come of... I haven't tried the truck with this mod yet, but I hope it will do it.

by the way; do you have the part number on the rustler servosaver unit?

Thanks!

Whoa G

On the high speed needle (hsn), turn it all the way clockwise until it stops, don't crank down on it, just do it very gently. then, in half turns, count 3 turns out (6 halves). in case you don't know what the hsn looks like, it's the tall screw that sticks up beside the air filter. the low speed needle (lsn) is the screw on the opposite end of the carb to the throttle arm (the lsn faces the back of the truck). Stock settings are for that screw to be set flush with the carb body.

nubtast

thank you for all of your help, i finally got it to idle and rev good. i believe what happend was, that when i replaced the bottom deck of my truck with a new thicker one, and took the purple one off, it aligned my motor and gears better, because the old under deck i had was all bent up and twisted. ive been playing with the idle now, and i can get it to run pretty good, now all i need is a new set of wheels and tires and im good to go. the only thing that is wrong with it now is the pull start is acting up again, i just replaced it because the old one kept sticking, and now this one is sticking too, i think it might be my one way bearing but im not sure, i can get it to start, and starting is a breeze now that i got it running good, but it sticks like every three pulls. i want to post a pic of my rush, but i dont know how. if anyone can help me with that it would be greatly appreciated, thank you so much, kevin

nubtast

and if anyone could also recomend a cheap set of wheels and tires for me that would be great, i only need back tires, and rims. thanks, kevin

nubtast

nubtast

this is my rush, not much done to it, but ive got a carbon fiber frot shock tower, new rush evo bottom deck, new motor mount, and a complete new screw kit, let me know what you think

*Nitromaniac*

Hello Nubtast!

I had the same problem with the pullstart. In my case it was that the thread and its housing was full of dirt. What I did was(I didn't want to take it appart because of the returnspring... ) that I removed it from the engine and sprayed it full of WD-40, then I pulled the thread out and let it return several times. Then alot of dirt came out, and I repeated the procedure until no more dirt came out. Have had no more problems with it after that.

Whoa G

Hey Nub! Post a pic of that lower deck, the one all bent up and twisted. I always like to see some carnage!

MrMuz

just shimmed my diff, what a difference! I'm sure someone asked this before but does anyone know of an alloy diff casing?

*Nitromaniac*

I was out driving today. Just a couple of tanks. First thing, my steering update seem to work. The servosaver doesn't separate anymore! But I have a problem with my engine, and have had it for a period. When the engine is cold, and I start it it is fine and I can tune it all right, and it is fast and good, but after aprox 5 min when the engine gets hot, it looses power, and wil dificult rev, and looses response, and finally dies, and won't start until it has coled down again. [] Does anyone know what it can be?

MrMuz

sounds like it's running a bit too lean to me.. try backing off the high speed screw a touch

Mitchell91

yep, sounds too lean

*Nitromaniac*

I know, but I don't think it is. Because I have tried to adjust it alot, and I start with the base settings, and adjust the hsn in 1/8 increments until it becomes to lean, and then I turn it 1/8 back, and it runs good for a while, and after about 5 minutes the problems starts.[:@] then I turns it more back, but it dosen't help. I have also noticed when I take out the glowplug, that the top of the piston is dark brown, like covered with tare or something. and the alu header has turned from black to copper color...

nubtast

truck starts one day and doesnt start the next? can anyone tell me whats up? i will post a pic of the deck in a little, im all pissed off about my motor. yesterday it started in 3 pulls, cold, and now today when i finally get my new tires, i doesnt do anything, im going back out to try again, i thought i would post while i was inside to see if anyone can help, thanks kevin

nubtast

replaced the glo plug, the motor ran great for 30 seconds, and then the back wheels locked up. and my steering is ****. i already had to replace my steering turnbuckles once, because they got so bent up that it took my whole back yard to make a 90 degree turn, the steering was fine for about 2 tanks of gas, and now it takes half of my backyard to turn around, the rush is one of the worst trucks i have ever seen, im sorry, but its true. if anyone can tell me why my back wheels are locked that would be great. they can spin oposite ways, but they dont go forward or backwards togather. thanks , kevin

nubtast

i yanked out the differential, and the middle gear was stripped, why in the hell would the put a metal gear against a plastic gear, it ripped the threads right off of it. were can i get a new gear? its the middle gear that shreaded

Mitchell91

im not sure if you mean the middle gear in the gearbox:
[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXZT46&P=Z[/link] (heavy duty version)
or the bevel gears in the diff:
[link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM742&P=Z[/link]

I hope that helps.

nubtast

thanks for the link, it is the middle gear box gear, glad its only a 3 dollar fix.