nickrummy

I can see them cleaning out well in mud/dirt since they have a very open tread pattern. We ran in some mud and dirt when I have swamp dawgs on my truck and I couldn't go places that people with the same truck take mashers through. I found that as soon as the swamp dawgs got wet you might as well have plastic tires.

ChrisGeorge

That may be the case but these tires are different. Your definitly right about the open tread pattern though these babies
clean anything out quick. Also I understand you problem with the swamp dogs but I dont think they were geared as
much towards rock crawling like the red rocks.

nickrummy

I'm sure I'm wrong in doing so but I "assumed" that any imex tire would be mediocre at best when it comes to crawling. Imex told me they make all their tires out of the same rubber compound which is very hard compared to others. When that rubber gets wet watch out! That's the main reason I am not for Imex tires when it comes to competing. Do they look good? heck yeh! Will they work? Yup they roll Will they out perform a masher or losi claw climbing rocks? Well someone would have to show me to prove it.

ChrisGeorge

Alright I made my case for the tires. Ia m not going to argue them anymore.

I like them.

You may not.

Are they better than Mashers or Moabs or Rock claws? I cant say from personal experience but no the are most certainly not
any better I would guess. In certain circumstances, mine, they present advantages because of their size and tread.
Again I agree with your assesment of wet traction which is terrible.
I hope this clears things up.

nickrummy

Understandable. I wasn't trying to argue just to argue. You stated you didn't agree with my thoughts on the imex tires and I wasn't seeing your point so I was trying to explain my reasoning.

They work for you and not for me. Sounds like good reasoning!

What are you still planning on changing on your truck? I seen you said you still aren't satisfied.

RCminded

Well My biggest problem deals with excess weight. As I said before I own an AX-10 and it weighs a mere 3.5ish lbs.
My wk tips the scales at nearly 8lbs. I am sure you can understand my concern with this.
Mainly the truck must work roughly twice as had as the axial crawler, and beleive me it shows.
Secondly the way I mounted the links was inapropriate for full blown competition but at the time
rotating the brakets had not occured to me. I would like to mount those to the back of the axel
when I rebuild. I aslo want to make side plates for it and relocate the electronics possible waterproof box.
Definetly a new body, Bug in orange and purple? Aluminum spindles and their brakets would be good but if not
at least I need to cut the existing ones for better steering. lipo battery and brushless would reduce my weight problems by nearly a pound so that has a big priority. I also plan to eliminate the winch because I dont really use it often and it is weight that is
to high up. Thats all I can think of now.

So just a couple of things!! HA!!

RCminded

Oh sorry, I forgot to say that this is my new screen name(previously chrisgeorge).

Check out this prototype steering setup. I adjusted the links so that they are up and out of the way but still get full throw. This is a test setup outfited to a freind of a freinds truck. I are going to see what his feedback is. I still have to trim the one link to length but I am waiting for his servo. It should be done tommorrow so i will post up how it worked ASAP.

The Real Dogman

Is it just me or does it seem kinda silly to make such nice high clearance steering linkage, yet leave the oem link mounts hanging so low??

hands without shadows

Dog is right, you could at least rotate the link mounts 90 degrees.

nickrummy

If he does that he'll have a lot of suspension reconfiguring to do. Not to mention trimming the link mounts in the front to clear his new steering links.

I would move the bottom links to the same mounting hole as the shocks then shave the bottom of the link mounts. I know the links would be mounted a bit high on the axle but you would have a LOT of work involved to do it the proper way.

Neil E

I rotate the link mounts 90 degrees and did not shave them.

nickrummy

I always try to clean up the front of the axle as much as possible that way there is nothing to get hung up on.

hands without shadows

Besides the axle itself

nickrummy

Exactly! The more clear room you have from the front of the axle to the front of the tires the better approach you'll have.

See, nice and clean

RCminded

This setup is for some one else. I gave him the best setup I could without changing anything else. He can only afford the steering right now. Belive me there is plent wrong with the truck including the two driveshaft halves being glued together +many more. I am just setting him up on steering so that he wont have to do any major upgrades for a while. This was also a test to see how it would perform as far as throw.

If we are going to get serious that is also a poor servo location, to high, but in this configuration it fits between the shocks.

I know it is not optimum but it is way better than the stock linkage that had been broken and glued several times.

RCminded

This is my current setup. Very clean behind the axle link mounts. I plan on using the linkage setup you all saw in the other post. Battery will be on the axle as well. plus I just began on a simple tuber design.

Oh and I am sure to get greif without pre-emptive explination so here it is:

I am using the stock wheely king tranny to keep the chassis narrow. I like the way it looks like this plus there should be enough weight down low to counter act it. I am also planning on going to a smaller brushless outrunner motor which will futher help eliminate some of the high weight.

RCminded

Nick, I have I question for you. I see that you are using aluminum spindles inplace of the stock. I would assume that those get more steering throw from the looks of them. I have recently modified my own caster blocks to allow more steering but ran into a problem with the driveshafts binding in the stub axles.

Did you encounter the same issue? or are you using different stub axles. Cvds? Did you possibly just grind them out?

nickrummy

RCminded, That's looking good! Getting that motor lower or going to a brushless will definitely help as you have stated. Have you ever thought about clocking your motor plate? Here is a photo of the clocked plate I made. Don't worry, I replaced that ugly bearing



Here is another version for another truck I'm working on



As for the aluminum steering knuckles. I swapped over to the those because I needed them to be rigid. The stock ones were flexing to much for my steering setup. They are designed to give you more steering but not with the stock stub axle setup. MIP makes a setup of CVDs. I heard you still have to do a little trimming to the C-hub and knuckle but you get A LOT more steering without binding. That is going to be my next upgrade.

The Real Dogman

Here is my first stage of my WK Tuber!! Can you guess what it will be??? lol

hands without shadows

A Stealth tranny?

jombo

a 2 speed?

RCminded

I thought about doing the custom plat but making it fit right seemed like it would be alot of work and I have limited access to a bandsaw for precise cuts(I have been using a freinds).

Whose knucles are those? what brand. As for the cvds do they make a set specifically for the wk, I cannot find them.

The Real Dogman

It will be a custom cnc'd stealth style tranny case machined from Black Acetal Sheet(fully enclosed case). It will eliminate the clicker from the idler gear, and use OEM WK tranny gears. Wait till you see what the plate is made from. Nothing but beef yet light weight.

nickrummy

http://www.tcscrawlers.com/product.p...7&cat=0&page=1

http://www.rcpcrawlers.com/product.p...&cat=23&page=1

hands without shadows

If you are going to all that trouble why dont you use metal gears and go for a lower gear ratio? Either way, it should fit a lot better and look sick! What did you use to make the drawings? And where did you get delrin?