Phi3l

I'm building a Sig 1/6 Scale Clipped wing Cub. I want to hinge the cabin door so it opens.

I'd like some suggestions from anyone who has done this, especially the window part of the opening that hinges on the top.

Thanks,
Phil in MN[8D]

Wayne22

My Feedback: (2)

Balsa USA has an instruction sheet for the 1/4 scale cubs that might be useful. You should be able to pick up a used set somewhere...if not, BUSA sells the plans separately.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

Or check out Sig's 1/5 scale cub instructions - they have a working door.

Jerry

tubig

phil, i'm working on the same kit except i'm not doing the clipped wing version. how do you like the construction? do you have any photos of your build?

Phi3l

Ok, Guys....

I know it's been a while since I asked, but, thanks for the replies. I think I figured it out....I used the hinge slotter to cut slots in the spruce window frames and I'll cut down some pin type hinges to fit . I'll post a picture when I get that far.

Here are some pictures of the build so far.

Phi3l

And here is a closer look at how my front cabin wires turned out......

One is of the slot for the wire then with the wire epoxied in place...

tubig

hey phil,
looking good! i'm just about in the same spot as you but i haven't put on any of the formers on the rear fuse yet. one question, how did you solder the wing bracing wires without burning the plywood plate across the forward cabin? i had to take a micro torch to the wire but then i burned the ply pretty good. i don't suppose it'll matter after it's covered but it's still a pride in craftsmanship thing. i also didn't bother bending the music wire to fit the fuse frame sticks. i just added scrap to fill in the gap between the wire and frame.

Phi3l

I soldered the wires before I glued the plywood plate in place.

What I did was fit the wires so that the plywood would slide over the ends of the wire and be in the right place. Then, with the wing in place I marked the top of the cabin frame and also where I wanted to stop the wire wrap. After that it was a simple matter to clean the music wire and apply the wrap and flux. I used my 180 watt Weller gun to solder mine. The solder actually flowed between the wires all the way to the ends of the music wire. I really seems to be a strong joint.

The second pic in my previous post shows the wing sitting on the cabin and if you look close you can see the wires are not soldered yet. The wires are epoxied into the slots on the fuse sides. The fit was just right so I marked the location and took off the wing and ply plate, then soldered....

Here's a pic of the ply clamped in place. I held it with a piece of 1/2" square balsa and spring clamps with waxed paper to keep from gluing the balsa.

This kit has been kind of challenging, but a lot of fun to build so far. I plan on painting it the same as Hazel Sig's Cub.

Phi3l

I decided to build up the back part first with the idea that the cabin framework might be somewhat fragile in the early stages and I didn't want to risk breaking things when I was working on the back end. I think doing it like that paid off for me.

I also tack glued a piece of 1/16" balsa under the top cabin pieces to hold them at the right spacing. It made the whole works more sturdy, too.

Phil in MN[8D]

tubig

i suppose i should have read ahead where i would have seen about the soldering before gluing on the plywood piece. oh well, live and learn. at least anyone else building this kit will hopefully see this thread and do it the way you did. yours was the smarter way.

another thing. i cut out the area in the back of the wing center section that is shown on the plans (but not mentioned in the instructions, as far as i could tell) but after doing that i noticed it left a gap at the plywood piece up front. i had to glue in a spacer between the plywood and the front of the wing. did you find that also?

tubig

oh yeah, one more thing. after looking at your last photo it looks like you aligned the wing hold down blocks with a line you drew along the former. very smart! don't ask me how i know.

Phi3l

Those instructions are definitely intended for someone with building experience, aren't they!

Mine came out very close to the plan location. When I made the front side frames I was really careful to get that piece that the music wire runs next to EXACTLY where the line on the plan is, then all I had to do as far as wire bending goes was to take a little bend out of the wire to make it flush with the outside of the frame. When you look at the side view, the plan shows the wire continuing in a line from that frame part to where it goes into the wing. So I did my best to duplicate that detail and mine turned out pretty good. I had to add about a 1/32" spacer which I put back in the cutout on the trailing edge.

By the way,I made the slot by glueing a piece of 1/8" square balsa behind where the wire goes. Then after the 1/4" sheet fill was in place I had a slot...

Here is a pic.... You can also see at the bottom of the slot where I put a piece of 1/8 x 1/4 to act as a "stop" for the end of the music wire.

Phi3l

I just remembered another thing....

Back at the elevator, The instructions and plan had you glue the dowel that holds the elevator halves together. If you do that then you have to cut a slot through the rear post on the vertical stab to get it in there...[]

I don't want to do that so I am going to cut the center section of dowel out after I fit the hinges and then just do a split elevator with a "Y" type pushrod. For that kind of setup I like to use the Dave Brown fiberglass pushrods.

Also, if you take a look in my gallery, I have a few more pics of the Cub build...

Phil in MN[8D]

Phi3l

Yes I did.....I clamped a piece of wood (with waxed paper around it) to the former on the line to clamp the hold down blocks onto.

I also made new hold down blocks out of 1/4" ply because I really didn't care for the ones that came with the kit.

One of my next steps will be to drill and tap the blocks.

Phil in MN[8D]

tubig

phil, i'm finally back in the elevator section and noticing what you mentioned in the an earlier post about splitting the elevator halves. i'm not yet sure how i'm going to attack that, but the question i have is just how in the heck are you going to cover the empennage? it appears there is a gap (which is mentioned in the instructions) between the stab and the fuse when looking down from overhead. is this gap supposed to be covered or left open? i'm in a real quandry right now about how to go about this.