Tamiya Pershing
#26
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The JS-2 was my first Tamiya tank. Even though I read the part about the neutral throttle, I didn't understand it fully until I tried to move the tank for the first time and then what I had read kicked in. I was prepared for this when testing the Pershings electronics. Just curious as to why all of the Tamiya tanks don't have this feature, I like it.
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[QUOTE=Tanker 10;12139195]The JS-2 was my first Tamiya tank. Even though I read the part about the neutral throttle, I didn't understand it fully until I tried to move the tank for the first time and then what I had read kicked in. I was prepared for this when testing the Pershings electronics. Just curious as to why all of the Tamiya tanks don't have this feature, I like it.[/QUOTE
I really like the neutral throttle also. it is on the Pershing and the KV 1 elctronics which i use in a number of tanks, My T-34,ZTZ99 A i installed it in too. Good universal diesel sound.
I really like the neutral throttle also. it is on the Pershing and the KV 1 elctronics which i use in a number of tanks, My T-34,ZTZ99 A i installed it in too. Good universal diesel sound.
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So I had ordered bearings for the road wheels on my new Pershing. The package finally arrived today, EMPTY. Does anyone in the USA carry bearings for the Tamiya tanks?
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You need (42) 5x8x2.5mm bearings for the wheels and suspension arms inside the lower hull. Could look on ebay such as this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Extreme-Hobb...gAAOSwmrlU0l0c
Or sealed bearings like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apex-RC-Prod...cAAOxyA9dSU5W3
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Extreme-Hobb...gAAOSwmrlU0l0c
Or sealed bearings like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apex-RC-Prod...cAAOxyA9dSU5W3
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You need (42) 5x8x2.5mm bearings for the wheels and suspension arms inside the lower hull. Could look on ebay such as this.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Extreme-Hobb...gAAOSwmrlU0l0c
Or sealed bearings like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apex-RC-Prod...cAAOxyA9dSU5W3
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Extreme-Hobb...gAAOSwmrlU0l0c
Or sealed bearings like these.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Apex-RC-Prod...cAAOxyA9dSU5W3
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I don't know, I bought the rubber shielded bearings. I've used them before near plastic and haven't seen any ill effects. Thanks for the warning however.
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I've installed the road wheels, tracks and idlers. The idler system leaves a lot to be desired, I don't see anyway of adjusting track tension. Are you guys running aftermarket idlers? Sorry guys, I can't get the 2nd photo to lay flat. I've tried flipping it but it keeps uploading vertical.
Last edited by Tanker 10; 12-17-2015 at 05:26 PM.
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[QUOTE=Tanker 10;12144150]I've installed the road wheels, tracks and idlers. The idler system leaves a lot to be desired, I don't see anyway of adjusting track tension. Are you guys running aftermarket idlers?[/QUOTe
The stock idler system works well. I've only seen a tammy pershing throw a track under extreme conditons of deep loose dirt/sand and doing fast pivot turns during IR battle.
The stock idler system works well. I've only seen a tammy pershing throw a track under extreme conditons of deep loose dirt/sand and doing fast pivot turns during IR battle.
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[QUOTE=TheBennyB;12144155]
So that pin to hold the idler arm doesn't give you any trouble?
I've installed the road wheels, tracks and idlers. The idler system leaves a lot to be desired, I don't see anyway of adjusting track tension. Are you guys running aftermarket idlers?[/QUOTe
The stock idler system works well. I've only seen a tammy pershing throw a track under extreme conditons of deep loose dirt/sand and doing fast pivot turns during IR battle.
The stock idler system works well. I've only seen a tammy pershing throw a track under extreme conditons of deep loose dirt/sand and doing fast pivot turns during IR battle.
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Are you talking about the cotter pin?
It is a little tricky to get in and out, but I would not really call it a problem.
The Idler adjust is limited to 3 positions.
I think mine has always been in positioned in the middle/ with the pin almost straight up and down.
I tried the Schumo aftermarket idler adjust to get more positions, but did not care for it as it was too loose.
Mitosal sells their own version, which appears to be engineered better than Schumo's, but I don't know anyone who runs one.
So I use the stock Tamiya one w/ no issues.
I never had a problem w/ my 1st set of tracks that I ran for 4 years.
But my replacement set that I bought a few months ago, were a little 'sticky,' or too tight between the end caps and the links.
This caused them to bind a bit which mad a kinda popping noise as I drove.
So I took them off and massaged them a bit and put a little lateral torque on them by hand, which loosened them up a bit.
It is a little tricky to get in and out, but I would not really call it a problem.
The Idler adjust is limited to 3 positions.
I think mine has always been in positioned in the middle/ with the pin almost straight up and down.
I tried the Schumo aftermarket idler adjust to get more positions, but did not care for it as it was too loose.
Mitosal sells their own version, which appears to be engineered better than Schumo's, but I don't know anyone who runs one.
So I use the stock Tamiya one w/ no issues.
I never had a problem w/ my 1st set of tracks that I ran for 4 years.
But my replacement set that I bought a few months ago, were a little 'sticky,' or too tight between the end caps and the links.
This caused them to bind a bit which mad a kinda popping noise as I drove.
So I took them off and massaged them a bit and put a little lateral torque on them by hand, which loosened them up a bit.
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Looking at your photo, it looks like your idler is in the loosest position, with the idler wheel basically touching the 1st road wheel.
Try the next position up, which should put more like a few mm between them.
Try the next position up, which should put more like a few mm between them.
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Yes, the pin. I can see the hole in the arm enlarging after a while and then causing slop. Thanks for the tip on the idler wheel, I'll check it tomorrow.