New Hypersport 48 Questions
#1
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New Hypersport 48 Questions
New to the big boat/gas hobby. I have 2 nitro boats (Nitro Viper and Jet Stream 800).
I picked up a new-in-box Hypersport 48 recently; for $360. Fuel lines were dried and cracking so I replaced them with new Tygon hose.
It wasn't turning very sharply to the right, and I was running in a small cove where I beached the boat to hang out and run the HS. Got too close to the shoreline and caught a rock; killed the prop. Will be adjusting the rod end to yield full turning.
The Prather S275 will be a suitable replacement?
The break-away rudder works very well. In the videos it looks like they aren't using the thin, shear bolt. Is it required, or just tighten up the main mounting bolt?
Is there a handle available for the choke? That %^%@@ thing is not easy to access, and mine seems to require the Hulk to turn it. There isn't much access there to even get a pliers on it.
Maybe just cover the intake stack instead??
Any known fuel tank replacements? Putting the fuel line port right in the middle of the side? What idiot designed that???
I think this will be a cool boat to play with when we take one of the real boats to the lake.
I picked up a new-in-box Hypersport 48 recently; for $360. Fuel lines were dried and cracking so I replaced them with new Tygon hose.
It wasn't turning very sharply to the right, and I was running in a small cove where I beached the boat to hang out and run the HS. Got too close to the shoreline and caught a rock; killed the prop. Will be adjusting the rod end to yield full turning.
The Prather S275 will be a suitable replacement?
The break-away rudder works very well. In the videos it looks like they aren't using the thin, shear bolt. Is it required, or just tighten up the main mounting bolt?
Is there a handle available for the choke? That %^%@@ thing is not easy to access, and mine seems to require the Hulk to turn it. There isn't much access there to even get a pliers on it.
Maybe just cover the intake stack instead??
Any known fuel tank replacements? Putting the fuel line port right in the middle of the side? What idiot designed that???
I think this will be a cool boat to play with when we take one of the real boats to the lake.
#2
Many of the break-away rudders are secured to their pivot assemblies using steel hardware on the top and soft brass on the bottom. Since the brass is easily sheered, it can handle the normal water drag but break when the rudder hits something, preventing hull damage.
When you say "killed the prop", are you talking broken off blades or just seriously dinged leading edges? Another question is what was the prop made from? If it was plastic or carbon fiber or was it beryllium/copper or stainless steel? If it wasn't one of the later two, it was a garbage prop. The S275 might be a little large. The size listed on the Pro Boat website is the same as the 270, be it the B or S series. As far as the other questions, I don't know enough about that boat to be much help
When you say "killed the prop", are you talking broken off blades or just seriously dinged leading edges? Another question is what was the prop made from? If it was plastic or carbon fiber or was it beryllium/copper or stainless steel? If it wasn't one of the later two, it was a garbage prop. The S275 might be a little large. The size listed on the Pro Boat website is the same as the 270, be it the B or S series. As far as the other questions, I don't know enough about that boat to be much help
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Thanks for the response!
The ends of the prop blades broke off. It was a SS prop. I will be ordering a finished Prather S270; I'll see if they carry the shear bolt as well. Looks like Pro Boat only offers it in their $17 bolt kit.
The ends of the prop blades broke off. It was a SS prop. I will be ordering a finished Prather S270; I'll see if they carry the shear bolt as well. Looks like Pro Boat only offers it in their $17 bolt kit.
#4
My Feedback: (1)
Shear bolts are dirt cheap, usually 2-56 or 4-40 so you don't have to spend the big bucks for them.
f it isn't steering well check the throw on the transmitter as the EPA or end-point adjustments could be way off.
Chokes you usually shouldn't need, a finger or thumb over the carb for a pull should prime the carb, pull it over slowly.
Fuel tank replacements? I use IV bags for fuel. Baxter makes some good one but I'm using Zippkits "fuel cells", the same thing as an IV bag but not FDA approved. You use one line to the carb with a T fitting in between to fill it. the bag collapses as it empties.
Remove the velocity stack as it does no good.
f it isn't steering well check the throw on the transmitter as the EPA or end-point adjustments could be way off.
Chokes you usually shouldn't need, a finger or thumb over the carb for a pull should prime the carb, pull it over slowly.
Fuel tank replacements? I use IV bags for fuel. Baxter makes some good one but I'm using Zippkits "fuel cells", the same thing as an IV bag but not FDA approved. You use one line to the carb with a T fitting in between to fill it. the bag collapses as it empties.
Remove the velocity stack as it does no good.
#6
A prop is one of the most important items on your boat. The 275 is a great prop but make sure it gets balanced and sharpened. I dull prop transfers all the torque of your slower RPM gas engine, To the hull. making it handle poorly. A unbalanced prop, (even worse on a gas boat) Because it's bigger shakes the crap out of your boat and causes more problems, They are not ready out of the package. Chris at DasBoata.com does a very good job on props. There are a few others, and you can do it your self. but really to me paying for the prop to be done right is a good purchase. Not cheap, Probably 60.00 in labor if you send him your prop.When you try to do it your self you will be half way done and say I should have just paid this guy. the second half is were you may very well ruin your prop and have to start over. Either way have fun. 28 degrees deflection on your rudder is a good number, any more then that and it is now a brake and not really a control surface. your boat will always turn better to the right from the torque of the motor and prop.
Last edited by expresscraft; 09-15-2017 at 05:27 AM.
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I picked up a water pump, which didn't include the mounting bracket as advertised. I'm thinking of mounting it directly to the stringer between the engine mount and radio box. Any issue drilling more holes in the stringer?
#10
I have found most that recomend water pump are the ones selling water pumps. Clutch is only letting the boat sit stil at a idle. at a idle these engines do not over heat very fast. remember when you come to a idle the water jacket also has water in it that gives even more time to allow it to get hot. I like clutches and have used them for many years on many different builds and i never use pumps with no troubles. BUT you can drill mounting holes in your rails with no problems. you also have to put a fitting on your motor, many like them on manifold block between carb and motor.
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Thanks for the great info guys! I plan on adding a clutch over the winter, and if a water pump isn't a truly needed component I won't bother installing it unless I start having over heat issues.