evaderstbasher

Can someone give me a step by step, what to sand, what angle to sand, anything that will help. this has be stumped!

this is what i hae so far, should i sand more off the nose?

how shoudl they fit together, should i put them on both at the same time?

do i sand anything other than the keel? do i need to line up the back transom?

sowega flyer

The main thing is not to get in a hurry. Take your time and TEST FIT the sheeting. You will be able to look at the nose with the sheeting on it to tell if it's enough. Tape it down and look where it meets the sides and the nose, and make sure it makes good contact. Don't worry about the overhang on the sides and transom- just make sure the keel meets like it should and all points of contact are good. Again, take your time. The overhang will be removed later after the sheeting is glued down. Patience here will pay off- sand a little at a time to fit the sheeting...fit,sand,fit,sand,fit,sand... A small hand plane is a jewel for this project.

Don't worry- it'll come together

fuelman8

As far as lining up the sheeting with the back of the transon, don't worry about that just make sure you have the sheeting correct at the nose (you may have a small amount sticking out) and you can remove any excess from the back and front after you have both bottom sheets epoxied down on the bulkheads.

Just follow the directions carefully for this step.[sm=thumbs_up.gif]

That's how I did mine and it worked just fine.

Joe Petro

My Feedback: (1)

Great advice!
Really, the most inportant thing is to take your time. Make sure it fits the way you want BEFORE you mix epoxy.

Joe Petro

evaderstbasher

well, from what i can see, my sides both have equal overhang on top and bottom.

Am i suppose to sand this? (sand the blue?)


And should i match the angle the red line?

See pic...

sowega flyer

The sides (blue line) should match the angle of the formers. A good way to do that is to take a bar sander and were the side meets the former, run the bar sander down the former and sand the side till it matches the angle. Do that with all the formers then take your hand plane and while holding it at the same angle, run it the length of the sides until you have a matched angle (blue line, including red line) all the way down the sides. When you lay the sheeting down, you want the sheeting to contact the formers and the sides well. This will give a good surface for bonding the sheeting, which is important for strength. A good alternative to a bar sander if you don't have one is a piece of aluminum channel (1") available at you local hardware store or discount home center. Cut a 12 inch piece and take a self-adhesive sheet of sand paper and stick to it. 220 grit is good for this.
Remember not to sand the former itself, you just want to take away from the side, until it matches the ANGLE of the former. At the front, you want the keel to match the angle of the formers as well. Your main objective here is to make the sheet come in good contact with all of the surfaces. This takes some time but it is an important step, so your patience will pay off.

BMAD01

I used a 7" planer, and a finish drywall sander on my E/V. Picked em both up at Home Depot along with a variety of sanpaper grits. I got 180, 220, and 400 grit paper. On the sides (Blue) I roughed em down with the planer till they were close, then I used the sander to blend them down to the bulkheads. I used a steel, 12" scale to check my sanding as I worked. I tried using the planer on the nose (Red) but it started to splinter the wood![X(] I used the sander, and 180 grit to wittle it down after that. Work slow! It's not a race to get it done yano! LOL Good luck, Brian

evaderstbasher

Thanks mad.

Not untill your pic with the sander there angled on the side and bulkhead did i understand what all this blending meant.

After that, i saw the light, little trouble witht eh nose, but it is all coming together.

Waiting for the first bottom sheet to set up, then onto the other, then off to work to make the money to fund the hardware!

Exciting, finally its coming together. Pics soon

thanks guys

evaderstbasher

Ok, the first sheet went on good. got home from work, checking out the second sheet, its good all the way to about half way up, then it does not sit right, then comes back down fine for the point.

how do i fix this? what needs to be sanded/blended?

See pics, thanks guys, you are the ultimate knowledge base!

fuelman8

It looks like from the last pic that you left the first sheet squared off [:@] Both the bottom sheets need to be tapered so they meet flush where they join together. The angle should be pretty close to a 45 degree on each.

If you have enough of the bottom sheet over the center you need to taper the sheet that you have already glued on the bulkheads and then taper the other sheet to match it when you lay in on. If you don't have enough to taper it and keep the center line, maybe someone can give you some advise on possibly filling it in. You want no gap between them where they meet.

Tony

BMAD01

Unfortunatey, Tony is right![&o] You should have put a bevel along that whole edge of the bottom that's already on. I don't recall the instruction book saying anything about that, but I built mine 8 montha ago and don't have a clue to where my book is... There are a number of ways you can finish it up. If you leave the second sheet square and epoxy it on, there will ba a gap all the way down the keel of the boat. You could put it on that way, trim down the sides and cut it off the building jig. Then I'd lay some fiberglass along the whole length of the keel from the inside. Then you could flip it over and fill that gap with Z-Poxy finishing resin and sand it in to a point. Any way you do it, your in for a ton of sanding to get the keel to a point, and keep it straight.[:-][:-] Finish sanding one of these hulls is more work than you'd think! WORK SLOW!! Good luck, Brian

fuelman8

It also looks like you glued you're main stringer onto the keel support. You will have to break this away when you're finished as the stringer should have been dry mounted and secured with rubber bands.
Fortunatley this shouldn't be a problem as this part of the boat will be filled with flotation.

evaderstbasher

What do you mean? Which pieces? which picture... I am pretty sure i glued everything that should be glued, and dry mounted everything that should not.. If by the keep support you mean those two pieces, they were rubber banded on, but after the glue, i just took off hte rubber bands as i did not need them anymore.

Ok, so i stopped at hardware store today after school. Looked around, found this..

Plastic glue.. caught my eye.. Basically its kind of like a putty that you can jam into places and build up and it hardens to wood quality, can be Planed, sanded, painting, finished, anything....

So i was thinking, look at the pics in this post and tell me if you think this will work, do this, then put that filler in there, sand it down to a point all the way, this way it is straight and everything, and fill that gap at the nose it is going to make if i make the keel straight..

What do you think? i think it could work? I have a test piece out right now, and its been 15 minutes and its already hard! it says it only takes an hour.. then i will see if it sands smooth and everything ok.

Think i should go for it? should i try to angle the pieces at all? there is a slight slight gap i think all the way. check pics, if they look ok...

evaderstbasher

This?

I did this correctly

martno1fan

Looks like you over lapped the two sheets at the keel?,i havent built an easy vee but on my woody the two bottom sheets fit to each other,you bevel the edges to meet up neatly.Maybe im looking at the pics wrong but thats how it looks to me?.
Mart

martno1fan

If its all stuck together now just plane and sand till both sides meet in a v at the keel and fill any gaps ,make sure you dont have any uneveness on the bottom sheets or effectively you are introducing hooks and rockers into the build which is a BAD thing [X(].

evaderstbasher

... ill get my dad to help me tommorow.

I'm sure we can figure something out, any other suggestions, please let me know. thanks

sowega flyer

Don't use that "Plastic Wood"- it isn't going to hold up and it will shrink as it dries. You need to use Micro-balloons and epoxy or epoxy resin.

martno1fan

the plastic wood will be ok so long as you seal over it with epoxy that will stop it shrinking i used some on my woody and it hasnt shrunk or cracked even in a head on crash into concrete at 25 mph [X(],the nose dented pretty bad though but soon fixed that with some solid wood cut to shape.

sowega flyer

OK- so why not just use epoxy with micro balloons? It seals and bonds the wood. Plastic Wood does not. Why take that chance?

evaderstbasher

its not for bonding. its to fill the gap?

sowega flyer

I know its to fill the gap, but since you didn't fit the sheets right, you don't have a high strength BOND at the GAP.
Use the Plastic Wood if you want to fill that hole...when it comes apart, use the stuff I said to use.


Good luck with your boat.

martno1fan

Micro baloons costs more ,seeing as how hes allready got the filler id just use it its not a risk,the epoxy he used on the build is allready holding the joint the filler is just filling then its sealed with epoxy job done .I allways use glass tape or strips of cloth over the keel join on my builds not to mention every seam anyway on the inside that is so im asuming you will be doing the same ?.

evaderstbasher

i can use glass on the inside also. Do you think the nose wil be ok if i fil that big of a gap?

Thanks for all the help.. Yeah, and if i seal the plastic wood filler with epoxy, its not going anywhere

martno1fan

so long as you rienforce the seams with glass cloth and epoxy it should be fine.