50" Deep V PLUG Build & Fiberglass Mold Construction
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I agree with Mike if your planning on using the mould more than a cpl of times id make the best mould you can
.Regarding the brush marks maybe one of those sponge type brushes would work? not sure as ive never even used one for paint just an idea maybe?.Hey mate if my name goes to the top that would be a first [X(] haha just kidding mate its no biggie i was just messing.Good luck with it.
Mart
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Mart
#52
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To edit my last post;
The end-grain allows the resins to kick off WITHOUT evrything getting too hot.
Molds are great, if taken care of they pay for themselves quickly. They also bring a premium if really nice.
Brushing the gelcoat on it was impossible for me to get ALL the little thin areas in one coat. I'd do 2 coats to be sure of complete coverage. It's not a huge deal if you plan on painting the boat.
The end-grain allows the resins to kick off WITHOUT evrything getting too hot.
Molds are great, if taken care of they pay for themselves quickly. They also bring a premium if really nice.
Brushing the gelcoat on it was impossible for me to get ALL the little thin areas in one coat. I'd do 2 coats to be sure of complete coverage. It's not a huge deal if you plan on painting the boat.
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You've made your point Mart, you're a top man! I personally don't mind the bottom.....anyways, just to keep you smiling, Your now #1.![Smile](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
If I spend any more money on this project, I may be headed towards my 2'nd divorce! Already over budget on this project. Just layers of glass is what I intend to use since I have pleanty already in the shop. If it makes 3-5 hulls, I'll be very happy, heck, just give me one good hull, that was my origional intention before I started getting emails for possible requests. If I start making several, I WILL infact make a carbon reinforced mold from this plug as suggested.
Don't have the pictures, but I noticed this morning the plug had a minor flaw. While picking the imperfection over, a 1" section of gelcoat just smeared away! I sprayed over a very slight area of bare wood that was filled with tree sap. Apparantly the resins in the gelcoat reacted with the sap softening the sap and never hardened! Had to scrape [>:] that area out and apply epoxy to fill the void. Sanded to a blended smooth appearance, reprimed, and just laid more gelcoat. Hopefully I'll be able to wetsand that area this afternoon once cured and start setting up for the molding process.
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If I spend any more money on this project, I may be headed towards my 2'nd divorce! Already over budget on this project. Just layers of glass is what I intend to use since I have pleanty already in the shop. If it makes 3-5 hulls, I'll be very happy, heck, just give me one good hull, that was my origional intention before I started getting emails for possible requests. If I start making several, I WILL infact make a carbon reinforced mold from this plug as suggested.
Don't have the pictures, but I noticed this morning the plug had a minor flaw. While picking the imperfection over, a 1" section of gelcoat just smeared away! I sprayed over a very slight area of bare wood that was filled with tree sap. Apparantly the resins in the gelcoat reacted with the sap softening the sap and never hardened! Had to scrape [>:] that area out and apply epoxy to fill the void. Sanded to a blended smooth appearance, reprimed, and just laid more gelcoat. Hopefully I'll be able to wetsand that area this afternoon once cured and start setting up for the molding process.
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ORIGINAL: mike the snake
Brushing the gelcoat on it was impossible for me to get ALL the little thin areas in one coat. I'd do 2 coats to be sure of complete coverage. It's not a huge deal if you plan on painting the boat.
Brushing the gelcoat on it was impossible for me to get ALL the little thin areas in one coat. I'd do 2 coats to be sure of complete coverage. It's not a huge deal if you plan on painting the boat.
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just dont over do the gelcoat on the actual hull it cracks easy and looks like crap
.
ps thanks for making me top man for the day
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ps thanks for making me top man for the day
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ORIGINAL: martno1fan
just dont over do the gelcoat on the actual hull it cracks easy and looks like crap
.
ps thanks for making me top man for the day
just dont over do the gelcoat on the actual hull it cracks easy and looks like crap
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ps thanks for making me top man for the day
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ps, no problem![:-]
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I was thinking about the making of the hulls themselves as you see alot of real nice gelcoated finnishes and they last five minuites when been bounced arround at 40 mph or more .I was told thinner gelcoat is better than thick as its less likeley to crack.
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Makes sence to me! I'll keep that in mind....still will brush on the 2 coats I plan to do for my hulls, same goes for my mold.
#59
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My mold is made from gelcoat, but tooling resin, or even just epoxy resin can be used to make the mold surface.
I brushed the gelcoat into my mold making a part.
My gelcoat mold surface seems to have held up OK over time.
I brushed the gelcoat into my mold making a part.
My gelcoat mold surface seems to have held up OK over time.
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In case you were wondering, haven't abandoned the build, just waiting for supplies to ship. Should be here middle of next week. In the meantime, have time to make this hull perfectly smooth. More wetsanding and buffing was required, but the bottom hull is finally ready for molding!
The flanges will be trimmed down and evened out once the two halves are joined and glassed together
The flanges will be trimmed down and evened out once the two halves are joined and glassed together
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ORIGINAL: Dreamin Hemi
Good! I'm just using finishing gelcoat for my mold surface, two brushed laters should work.
Good! I'm just using finishing gelcoat for my mold surface, two brushed laters should work.
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PHOTOSHOP FOLKS...........NEED YA!!
Anybody good at photoshop???
I'm posting these pictires in hopes someone could help design the top deck for this hull. Could be a team effort here! I really do like the look of the canopy there, and want to base my design off of that. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated! Good luck, and hopefully let's see all these great design possibilities!
Anybody good at photoshop???
I'm posting these pictires in hopes someone could help design the top deck for this hull. Could be a team effort here! I really do like the look of the canopy there, and want to base my design off of that. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated! Good luck, and hopefully let's see all these great design possibilities!
#65
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If you like a curved deck it doen't come much better looking than this. I hope Danny doesn't mind me posting pics of his boat. He is a member here (dannyual777) and if he has plans for this deck you might be able to get them from him. Danny did a gorgeous job on this boat. Doug
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That ship looks superb! I want to raise the deck a little higher and give it a more agressive stance. Here's something like what I had in mind. But a little more rounded corners.
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OK, the fun starts now! All parts and supplies came in, and I attacked this job as soon as I came home.
Shown here is the hull after 5 coats of "PartAll: have been applied. This paste form wax is VERY thick and is a pain to remove.
Notice the worktable is covered in wax paper....I made this table out of 200+ year old 2.5" oak planks, and it's PERFECT. Don't want to ruin it.
Shown here is the hull after 5 coats of "PartAll: have been applied. This paste form wax is VERY thick and is a pain to remove.
Notice the worktable is covered in wax paper....I made this table out of 200+ year old 2.5" oak planks, and it's PERFECT. Don't want to ruin it.
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Once the Partall paste has been applied, and buffed to a shine, a spray release agent was applied. Partall #10 comes ready to put into a spray gun. A little tricky to lay...1st coat is a "mist". I thought I was misting, and runs began to appear, had to wipe down and start over. The mist layers dries in about 10 minutes. 2 additional "wet" coats were than applied with 30 minute drying periods. Notice the even green tint that apears when the spray agent is layed on. Nice even overall appearance means good coverage.
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Finally the finish layer of tooling gelcoat was sprayed on. I used this method because.....well I just wanted to! ![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
So far what you see here is one layer of a medium build
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So far what you see here is one layer of a medium build
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That's lookin great Scott. I hope it continues going as well as it has so far. It'll be cool to see you pull one out of the mold when it's done. Doug
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you have the look right on the money check this site link out for a couple other ideas
http://www.offshoresuperseries.com/teams.cfm
http://www.offshoresuperseries.com/teams.cfm
ORIGINAL: Dreamin Hemi
That ship looks superb! I want to raise the deck a little higher and give it a more agressive stance. Here's something like what I had in mind. But a little more rounded corners.
That ship looks superb! I want to raise the deck a little higher and give it a more agressive stance. Here's something like what I had in mind. But a little more rounded corners.
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Here is the first item that gets slapped on. West Marine Systems micro fiber. Mixed with resin to a peanut butter consistancy and spread on to shart bends makes laying the .75oz matting much easier.
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1'st layer of .75oz matting. If you've never layed fiberglass, it's pretty much the nastiest thing you'll ever handle. Between the odar and everything sticking to your gloves as you're working........I absolutely LOVE IT!
Unfortunately, I thought I had an entire gallon of resin left over from another project, however it wasn't resin! I had just enough to complete, well almost complete the 1'st layer. Tomorrow hopefully I'll get more resin, lots more.
The matting was applied my wetting the mat on a table with a resin roller, and placing the wet pieces directly in the plug. Working out the bubbles with disposable brushes and extra resin. Few bubbles still exist, but I still will be wetsanding and buffing this mold when complete anwyway.
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The matting was applied my wetting the mat on a table with a resin roller, and placing the wet pieces directly in the plug. Working out the bubbles with disposable brushes and extra resin. Few bubbles still exist, but I still will be wetsanding and buffing this mold when complete anwyway.