1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- Onboard Video and Radar Results
09-26-2006, 03:34 AM
#1
1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- Onboard Video and Radar Results
I finally got ambitious and modified my 1/12 Miss Bud to accept the Dynamite .32. After running the boat unsuccessfully for about a year and a half, I finally discovered the root of the problem: The fuel tank cap did not seal correctly. This accounted for the boat going dead in the middle of the lake more times than I could count. Upon fixing this problem, the boat ran flawlessly for about 6 tanks of fuel, until the receiver shorted. The boat then proceeded across the lake at full speed, ran up the opposite bank, and ran wide open for about 7 minutes with no cooling. We just reached it as it died a very warm death. It was clear that the Miss Bud needed a new engine, but if it is coming apart, it sure is going to get modified.
Order up one Dynamite .32
After receiving the .32, it was clear that this was not going to be an easy job. The entire engine is considerably longer; and it appeared that fitting it to a solid shaft hull was going to be impossible. However, my buddy, convinced me that we would make it fit, regardless of what it took. Luckily for us, it ended up being much easier than we thought.
The key to making it fit, is ordering the correct parts, and a little grinding. I will try to remember the steps, and what we purchased to make the swap out fairly easy. We combined parts from the original Bud (.15)and the Thundercat 31 (.32)
Ordered parts:
1 flywheel for the 1/12 Bud Dynamite .15
1 drive dog for the 1/12 Bud Dynamite .15
1 extra 1/12 Bud fuel tank (in case you F up)
1 set of aluminum motor mounts for the Dynamite .32 (Thundercat 31)
1 header set for the Thundercat 31
1 extra header set for the 1/12 Bud
1 Thundercat tuned pipe
1 Thundercat Prop PRAB215
That's all there is to purchase, but you are going to need a good cutting wheel, and a tap and die set.
The first thing we did was cut off the excess length on the crankshaft. The length of the engine is what prohibits it from fitting in the boat, so the longer shaft, flywheel, and drive dog must be removed. I recommend placing a spare nut on the shaft to protect the threads. We measured the shaft with the short flywheel and left enough sticking through to fit flush inside the drive dog.
The next thing we did, was drill out the flywheel, as the .15 crank is smaller than the .32. Don't worry too much about drilling it off center, as you can oversize the hole slightly. The flywheel fits precisely over the spacer.
Next, carefully drill out the drive dog. This is probably the hardest part to do, since you need to retap the drive dog to fit the shaft. Order a few extras, if you are unsure of your tapping skills.
Now bolt the engine onto the aluminum mounts, and cut off the excess aluminum that curves down. You can skip ordering these mounts if you want to fabricate them from alum. stock, but you have to tap the holes which must align with the block holes. We found it easier to modify the Thundercat mounts.
If you try to fit the engine into the boat now, you will notice that it hits the tank. The tank and the wood mount need to be removed from the hull. You must be careful here to not crack the hull as you carefully pry up on the wood mount. Keep your hand on the bottom of the hull to feel it as you pry up. Go slow, and let the glue bond fail, instead of just ripping up on it. It will come out. If the front piece of wood stays, just break it out. You will not need any of the old wood mount.
With the tank removed, the engine will now fit into the compartment. Carefully locate the original front bolt holes, and transfer these to the new mounts. These holes have blind nuts, so they work very well. The rear mounts on my boat are just holes drilled with wood screws, as the Thundercat mounts are shorter once you cut the ends off. When you are done, you will be able to just swap engines in about 10 minutes! I have done it.
The most difficult part of the mod is the header. Right now, I am running a temporary header that I modified from the stock one. The exhaust port on the .32 is considerably larger, so a new one has to be fabricated. If you get the Thundercat header, you can cut off the down pipe and weld on the Bud style pipe that runs back flush with the manifold. I intended to do this, but I was impatient and made the .15 header work. I simply bolted it tightly to the engine in the front mount, and drilled the new hole in the weld of the pipe. I then forced the rear header bolt into the header and pressed and turned. I was scared to tap it out of the boat because it has to be a precise fit. I then took a dremel and opened up the opening to match the .32. There is veeery little material left, but it works. I made a new gasket from flat stock. I imagine this will be the worst part of the boat, but it hasn't failed yet.
Now trial fit the engine to the boat and see where the new tuned pipe fits. The pipe is longer, but the cylinder is now farther up in the boat, so make the hole for the pipe mount in the same spot as the .15 pipe. The .32 should have a larger diameter header, but since I used the .15 one, the rubber coupler actually fits inside the .32 tuned pipe. I know I am losing some power here, and I will eventually make the right header, but like I said, it works for now.
Last, take the new fuel tank and heat the front corners over a candle. I mentioned to get a new one, as I would not like to see some nitro come alive in the last steps of modifying the boat. This is a trial fit, and it will eventually move the tank forward enough so that the fill is completely under the canopy. This ensures that the fuel line will not cut under the pull starter. I also heated up the fuel nipple and angled it down a little to clear the starter. When you heat the Polypropylene tank, it will become almost clear, and look wet. Don't overheat it, as it will thin out and fail. Just keep it rotating enough to dissipate the heat, and then press it down on the front corner, mimicking the angle of the cockpit. Again, trial and error is the method here. Once it goes far enough forward, secure it with lots of foam. I jam some between the motor and the tank after I install the motor.
Now for the setup. It is a funny order, but it becomes second nature after a few swaps. You won't have to even adjust the servo, if you angle the carb so that it just touches the head. Once it touches, back it off about a paper width to keep heat and vibrations off the needle valve. The needle valve will miss the hull glass by millimeters. With the carb set, remove the needle valve body from the carb. It needs to be gone so you can bolt the header on, after the engine is mounted to the hull. With the engine in, the header bolted on, and then the needle valve rethreaded, you will be all set. Just for safety, I installed a return spring on the throttle to shut it down in the event of a dead rx battery, or loss of signal. It works.
The prop has to be moved back slightly on the shaft style hull, as the new one is taller than the clearance given. I shimmed it back, and put a bushing inside it to make up for the shaft size difference. One last modification I made to the prop shaft, was an idea of my buddy's. I have the old solid shaft hull, and it had so much slop, he pressed two servo mount washers onto each side of the shaft, and it took out all of the slop. It is a great idea.
Then install the pipe as per the original, and slip the rubber connector inside the pipe (I know, its kind of stupid to half ass the header after all of the other work, but hey, check out the vids)
I expected a little more speed than before, but the boat idles at break in Faster than the former .15's top speed!! I placed a small video recorder on the boat to document the first runs. The weight of the camera severely affected the hull performance, but with it off, the hull is much better balanced than before. The additional weight farther forward makes it run more like a hydro should.
The extra power and speed now show the deficiencies of the hull, so I am going to sand it a little, and blueprint the radii.
I hope this encourages some of you to perform the swap. It may seem long winded, but I am just being thorough. We accomplished everything in one evening, along with assembling a 1/8 scale pro boat, and tinkering on another 1/8 scale. The performance benefit is well worth the hours!
These links should work. Both runs are very short just to check it out. The hull seemed to prefer weight up forward, as the rear angle video was mounted to the air scoop, while the forward facing video was mounted just ahead of the wing. The rear weight bias kept causing the sponsons to attach to the water, and when the boat is heading for my real boat, you can see the Bud zig zag as the sponsons grab the water. As I get the hull dialed, and the engine broken in properly, I will retake some good videos. Enjoy these vids. They take a little time to download, but they work.
Anthony
http://media.putfile.com/112-Miss-Bud-front-view
http://media.putfile.com/112-Miss-Bud-rear-view
Order up one Dynamite .32
After receiving the .32, it was clear that this was not going to be an easy job. The entire engine is considerably longer; and it appeared that fitting it to a solid shaft hull was going to be impossible. However, my buddy, convinced me that we would make it fit, regardless of what it took. Luckily for us, it ended up being much easier than we thought.
The key to making it fit, is ordering the correct parts, and a little grinding. I will try to remember the steps, and what we purchased to make the swap out fairly easy. We combined parts from the original Bud (.15)and the Thundercat 31 (.32)
Ordered parts:
1 flywheel for the 1/12 Bud Dynamite .15
1 drive dog for the 1/12 Bud Dynamite .15
1 extra 1/12 Bud fuel tank (in case you F up)
1 set of aluminum motor mounts for the Dynamite .32 (Thundercat 31)
1 header set for the Thundercat 31
1 extra header set for the 1/12 Bud
1 Thundercat tuned pipe
1 Thundercat Prop PRAB215
That's all there is to purchase, but you are going to need a good cutting wheel, and a tap and die set.
The first thing we did was cut off the excess length on the crankshaft. The length of the engine is what prohibits it from fitting in the boat, so the longer shaft, flywheel, and drive dog must be removed. I recommend placing a spare nut on the shaft to protect the threads. We measured the shaft with the short flywheel and left enough sticking through to fit flush inside the drive dog.
The next thing we did, was drill out the flywheel, as the .15 crank is smaller than the .32. Don't worry too much about drilling it off center, as you can oversize the hole slightly. The flywheel fits precisely over the spacer.
Next, carefully drill out the drive dog. This is probably the hardest part to do, since you need to retap the drive dog to fit the shaft. Order a few extras, if you are unsure of your tapping skills.
Now bolt the engine onto the aluminum mounts, and cut off the excess aluminum that curves down. You can skip ordering these mounts if you want to fabricate them from alum. stock, but you have to tap the holes which must align with the block holes. We found it easier to modify the Thundercat mounts.
If you try to fit the engine into the boat now, you will notice that it hits the tank. The tank and the wood mount need to be removed from the hull. You must be careful here to not crack the hull as you carefully pry up on the wood mount. Keep your hand on the bottom of the hull to feel it as you pry up. Go slow, and let the glue bond fail, instead of just ripping up on it. It will come out. If the front piece of wood stays, just break it out. You will not need any of the old wood mount.
With the tank removed, the engine will now fit into the compartment. Carefully locate the original front bolt holes, and transfer these to the new mounts. These holes have blind nuts, so they work very well. The rear mounts on my boat are just holes drilled with wood screws, as the Thundercat mounts are shorter once you cut the ends off. When you are done, you will be able to just swap engines in about 10 minutes! I have done it.
The most difficult part of the mod is the header. Right now, I am running a temporary header that I modified from the stock one. The exhaust port on the .32 is considerably larger, so a new one has to be fabricated. If you get the Thundercat header, you can cut off the down pipe and weld on the Bud style pipe that runs back flush with the manifold. I intended to do this, but I was impatient and made the .15 header work. I simply bolted it tightly to the engine in the front mount, and drilled the new hole in the weld of the pipe. I then forced the rear header bolt into the header and pressed and turned. I was scared to tap it out of the boat because it has to be a precise fit. I then took a dremel and opened up the opening to match the .32. There is veeery little material left, but it works. I made a new gasket from flat stock. I imagine this will be the worst part of the boat, but it hasn't failed yet.
Now trial fit the engine to the boat and see where the new tuned pipe fits. The pipe is longer, but the cylinder is now farther up in the boat, so make the hole for the pipe mount in the same spot as the .15 pipe. The .32 should have a larger diameter header, but since I used the .15 one, the rubber coupler actually fits inside the .32 tuned pipe. I know I am losing some power here, and I will eventually make the right header, but like I said, it works for now.
Last, take the new fuel tank and heat the front corners over a candle. I mentioned to get a new one, as I would not like to see some nitro come alive in the last steps of modifying the boat. This is a trial fit, and it will eventually move the tank forward enough so that the fill is completely under the canopy. This ensures that the fuel line will not cut under the pull starter. I also heated up the fuel nipple and angled it down a little to clear the starter. When you heat the Polypropylene tank, it will become almost clear, and look wet. Don't overheat it, as it will thin out and fail. Just keep it rotating enough to dissipate the heat, and then press it down on the front corner, mimicking the angle of the cockpit. Again, trial and error is the method here. Once it goes far enough forward, secure it with lots of foam. I jam some between the motor and the tank after I install the motor.
Now for the setup. It is a funny order, but it becomes second nature after a few swaps. You won't have to even adjust the servo, if you angle the carb so that it just touches the head. Once it touches, back it off about a paper width to keep heat and vibrations off the needle valve. The needle valve will miss the hull glass by millimeters. With the carb set, remove the needle valve body from the carb. It needs to be gone so you can bolt the header on, after the engine is mounted to the hull. With the engine in, the header bolted on, and then the needle valve rethreaded, you will be all set. Just for safety, I installed a return spring on the throttle to shut it down in the event of a dead rx battery, or loss of signal. It works.
The prop has to be moved back slightly on the shaft style hull, as the new one is taller than the clearance given. I shimmed it back, and put a bushing inside it to make up for the shaft size difference. One last modification I made to the prop shaft, was an idea of my buddy's. I have the old solid shaft hull, and it had so much slop, he pressed two servo mount washers onto each side of the shaft, and it took out all of the slop. It is a great idea.
Then install the pipe as per the original, and slip the rubber connector inside the pipe (I know, its kind of stupid to half ass the header after all of the other work, but hey, check out the vids)
I expected a little more speed than before, but the boat idles at break in Faster than the former .15's top speed!! I placed a small video recorder on the boat to document the first runs. The weight of the camera severely affected the hull performance, but with it off, the hull is much better balanced than before. The additional weight farther forward makes it run more like a hydro should.
The extra power and speed now show the deficiencies of the hull, so I am going to sand it a little, and blueprint the radii.
I hope this encourages some of you to perform the swap. It may seem long winded, but I am just being thorough. We accomplished everything in one evening, along with assembling a 1/8 scale pro boat, and tinkering on another 1/8 scale. The performance benefit is well worth the hours!
These links should work. Both runs are very short just to check it out. The hull seemed to prefer weight up forward, as the rear angle video was mounted to the air scoop, while the forward facing video was mounted just ahead of the wing. The rear weight bias kept causing the sponsons to attach to the water, and when the boat is heading for my real boat, you can see the Bud zig zag as the sponsons grab the water. As I get the hull dialed, and the engine broken in properly, I will retake some good videos. Enjoy these vids. They take a little time to download, but they work.
Anthony
http://media.putfile.com/112-Miss-Bud-front-view
http://media.putfile.com/112-Miss-Bud-rear-view
09-26-2006, 09:33 AM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video coming!
That cool,that you'd did that but why a .32?I'd put a .21 in my Miss Bud if it run good I'll put the nastest motor in my boat.That is the NovaRossie sts .28 marine motor.It has 3.5 hp and top end at 40.000rpms and it still ran after it heated up to 400 degrees. I'd did some looking in to it.The guys who are selling them told me that it doesnt matter what motor that I'd put into my boat that this motor in another boat would smoke my boat in a heart beat.I still would like to see this vidio of it and some pis of it too. I did bolt on mods on my boat just in case it doesnt work. I did run a new fuel tank a sullivan 6oz slant one.It fit perfect and you gain 1oz more full the the stock tank.I'd used the stock exaust man,just had a guy tiged it alittle to get the front of the man to bolt in.Used the stock wood motor mount but made alum mounts to bolt to the wood and the .21. and made a new throthel rod out off lawnmower throthel cable it works!! I'm hopeing to try this out this week.[>:]
09-26-2006, 11:06 AM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video coming!
I see why they used the .32 though, it is so similar to the .15 that a lot less fabrication would need to be done... Granted a 3.5 hp monster would be awesome, I would just love to see the vids of the .32 in that thing! That is an awefully big plant/prop for the bud! Awesome post, well done! If I had some more $$ I would prolly try something like that!
09-26-2006, 02:44 PM
#4
RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video coming!
Videos are up!
These links should work. Both runs are very short just to check it out. The hull seemed to prefer weight up forward, as the rear angle video was mounted to the air scoop, while the forward facing video was mounted just ahead of the wing. The rear weight bias kept causing the sponsons to attach to the water, and when the boat is heading for my real boat, you can see the Bud zig zag as the sponsons grab the water. As I get the hull dialed, and the engine broken in properly, I will retake some good videos.
Enjoy,
Anthony
http://media.putfile.com/112-Miss-Bud-front-view
http://media.putfile.com/112-Miss-Bud-rear-view
These links should work. Both runs are very short just to check it out. The hull seemed to prefer weight up forward, as the rear angle video was mounted to the air scoop, while the forward facing video was mounted just ahead of the wing. The rear weight bias kept causing the sponsons to attach to the water, and when the boat is heading for my real boat, you can see the Bud zig zag as the sponsons grab the water. As I get the hull dialed, and the engine broken in properly, I will retake some good videos.
Enjoy,
Anthony
http://media.putfile.com/112-Miss-Bud-front-view
http://media.putfile.com/112-Miss-Bud-rear-view
09-26-2006, 03:36 PM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video coming!
very nice man. Sounds like you got the idle turned up pretty high out of the water [X(]
what kind of camera are you using? Thats about the cleanest onboard video ive ever seen.
what kind of camera are you using? Thats about the cleanest onboard video ive ever seen.
09-26-2006, 04:58 PM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video coming!
Tony the vidio wont play it said sorry code not available yet? it only played the sound.What up with that?I have windos media player 9. I want to see this boat. I'd just got done painting my Miss Bud and finish butting the .21 and it running.I'm waiting to run her tomarrow or thur to let her run to see how she'll do.[>:]
09-26-2006, 08:12 PM
#8
RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video coming!
The idle is up quite high but when you put it in the water, the large pitch prop loads it down pretty well. As the motor breaks in more and becomes more reliable at idle, I will turn it down. The camera is a hacked throw away. You can open them up and repackage them so they are not so big, but they are more prone to water damage.
My player says the same thing, but the video works. My buddy just confirmed it also. Check your settings.
Anthony
My player says the same thing, but the video works. My buddy just confirmed it also. Check your settings.
Anthony
09-26-2006, 08:31 PM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video coming!
Mine only playes the sound put not the video. It's not showing the pics. I'd just tub test my boat by putting the lode on my .21 and adjusted the cab,dam!! it's wants to take off like a shot gun!! I cant wait till tomarrow if I got time to run her.[>:] Tony Ron olson pm me a video clip of a hydroboat he'd wanted me to check out.It's from the same web sight you have your boat video on.The one that ron sent me works yours dont work plus it also said errer down load code.It only plays the sound of your video.[>:]
09-29-2006, 12:41 AM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
I had same problem...only sound no video. I went to [link]http://www.divx.com[/link] and downloaded the free divx codec. It works. Definately a clear video. I'd love to see the boat run from a where your driving it rather than on board. Nice work. I was thinking of using one of my sh buggy engines .21, but have been concentrating on other projects.
you did mention the deficiency in the hull. What are you referring to?
thanks
ron g
you did mention the deficiency in the hull. What are you referring to?
thanks
ron g
09-29-2006, 12:57 AM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
I'd love to see it from shore.. the on boat cam is cool but I cant really get a grasp of the speed. Looks pretty darn quick though!
09-29-2006, 09:18 AM
#12
RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
I'm going to run it this weekend hopefully. I ordered a radar gun, and just about every prop that will fit it, so it should start to get dialed in. I also finally Fabricated the correct header, which breathes a little better, so I am hoping to get decent numbers. If my buddy comes up, I'll have him video it from the boat. (Not the Bud, the boat we run it from. It makes retrieval a 30 second job, instead of waiting for it to drift in.)
I'll post results as soon as they are in.
Anthony
I'll post results as soon as they are in.
Anthony
09-29-2006, 09:42 AM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
Tony why did you use .32 dynamite in your boat?I just got done yesterday testing my Miss Bud with a .21 in it.,Holy crap this boat flies!!! My .21 has more power then the .32 dynamite motor.My boat front end stand up when it get on it,My friend saw this and told me it's runs like the big boys do.It's funny and nuts in how they run.And the saddest this is I'd only run her 1/4 to 1/2 throthel.I got two ponds to run my boats in.I been doing my test runs on the small pond so if it dies I have acc to a connew there. too sleepy306 I can tell what to do on your boat.All of my mods are simple and easy to do plus there bolt ons too.[>:]
09-29-2006, 05:41 PM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
[. It was clear that the Miss Bud needed a new engine, but if it is coming apart, it sure is going to get modified.
Its clear to me you need a failsafe this wouldnt have happened to your boat. Also you could have hurt or killed someone.
Its clear to me you need a failsafe this wouldnt have happened to your boat. Also you could have hurt or killed someone.
09-29-2006, 08:09 PM
#15
RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
Its clear to me you need a failsafe this wouldnt have happened to your boat. Also you could have hurt or killed someone.
The boat was run as stock when thr rx took a dump. The boat does not have any failsafe device from the factory, so I can't admit to being negligent. The boat was run in a pond with grassy banks, with nobody around, and at its flank speed of 16mph, killing somebody would be very difficult. As for the first part of your comment, you are absolutely correct. The boat now has a failsafe throttle return spring that kills the engine when Tx signal is lost. Lesson learned.
As for my choice of a .32, it was to keep the boat essentially simple as it came from Pro Boat. Trust me, I am dying to put my K&B .45 ducted fan engine into it (with a water cooled head), but these types of motors make lots of power up top. The solid shaft hull (1/8") will not handle this kind of power, and the shafts actually whip inside the stuffing causing it to crack out of the bottom. The .32 retains the pull start, and revs and builds power considerably lower than your NR .21, so you can swing a big wheel. The net result is of course going to be slower than a hot .21, but it is very usable and simple to operate. Plus, the bigger wheel helps lift the stern on the solid shafts, as the top of the prop is masked by the rather thick shaft fairing. The large wheel also allows you to set the boat in the water and go. You can slow it down to a crawl, add power and it takes off without ventilating the prop. That was my biggest complaint about the first setup (well, actually the lack of performance was the biggest). If you have a flex shaft, I think you can add more power than my hull safely.
I'd love to see your boat go,
Anthony
The boat was run as stock when thr rx took a dump. The boat does not have any failsafe device from the factory, so I can't admit to being negligent. The boat was run in a pond with grassy banks, with nobody around, and at its flank speed of 16mph, killing somebody would be very difficult. As for the first part of your comment, you are absolutely correct. The boat now has a failsafe throttle return spring that kills the engine when Tx signal is lost. Lesson learned.
As for my choice of a .32, it was to keep the boat essentially simple as it came from Pro Boat. Trust me, I am dying to put my K&B .45 ducted fan engine into it (with a water cooled head), but these types of motors make lots of power up top. The solid shaft hull (1/8") will not handle this kind of power, and the shafts actually whip inside the stuffing causing it to crack out of the bottom. The .32 retains the pull start, and revs and builds power considerably lower than your NR .21, so you can swing a big wheel. The net result is of course going to be slower than a hot .21, but it is very usable and simple to operate. Plus, the bigger wheel helps lift the stern on the solid shafts, as the top of the prop is masked by the rather thick shaft fairing. The large wheel also allows you to set the boat in the water and go. You can slow it down to a crawl, add power and it takes off without ventilating the prop. That was my biggest complaint about the first setup (well, actually the lack of performance was the biggest). If you have a flex shaft, I think you can add more power than my hull safely.
I'd love to see your boat go,
Anthony
09-29-2006, 08:22 PM
#16
RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
I would forget putting in the .45. These boats are not built strong enough to handle that kind of power, nor do they have enough lift to carry the weight of a .45. That's why your boat zig zags as the sponsons hit the water, it just can't pack enough air under the hull to handle the load with the .32, let alone a .45. If you really want to get a fast boat, get rid of the toy and build a real boat. I'm talking a .67 and a hull that can handle it, not to mention 60+ MPH. Maybe something like this
09-30-2006, 12:00 AM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
Mine doesnt zig zags.Mine run's/go's good.I can get the front up real good,like the big boys do.Ron Told me that your sponson should be just touching at the ends,That what mine does.[>:]
09-30-2006, 02:26 AM
#19
RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
Drmeff, I can build a basic hull for under $150, not counting cowlings and tail sets. By the time I add the fiberglass parts, I'm looking at a comparable cost to the Pro Boat stuff. Since most are replacing engines, radios and running gear anyway, when you add it all up, the big boats aren't that much more than the little Pro Boat toys. The nice part is the big boats look so much better on the water than the little boats do, so why spend the money on a cheap toy
I can build this one for under $200, plus engine, radio and running gear
I can build this one for under $200, plus engine, radio and running gear
09-30-2006, 03:28 AM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
not bad, but I can't build 
maybe someday, but for the little bit that I am out, the toys will work ok
maybe someday, but for the little bit that I am out, the toys will work ok
09-30-2006, 12:17 PM
#21
RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
I do have several .67 "real" boats. The 1/12 is appealing because it is a toy. I don't need any starter, large fuel bottles, or my truck to transport it. I can toss it in the back of the car and go. It can however be transformed into a better toy with some mods. The weight of the .32 is considerably more than the .15, but the boat is now balanced better. Both the 1/12 and 1/8 scale Pro Boat hydros are balanced too far aft to perform like real hydros should. They almost plain, or run on the transom, which is why they get very unstable as you make them faster. If you add power, you need to rebalance.
Unfortunately, we didn't get video of it, but we chased my buddy's 1/8 scale Pro Boat with my real boat (The Azure AZ238 in the onboard videos). He did some engine and pipe mods that pushed the boat faster than it was designed to go. We were amazed at how unstable it got with the rear weight bias. It ends up upside down every time.
The 1/12 runs much better with the new weight bias. It will get on plain from a standstill. It also sticks the sponsons less than with the weight aft. If you look at the videos, the forward facing video has the camera on the back, and it is the one where the boat zig zags. The rear facing video has the camera up front, which as you can see, runs much better.
The main reason that the boats hate a rear weight bias is that they have a production friendly radius on every trailing edge. I know this for a fact, as the company I own and design for (Azure) deals with this every day. You would prefer a tight, sharp corner, but glass wont "bend" into the corners, and you get air voids, so you radius the corners so the glass fills them in. The Pro Boats are the same. You can blueprint the bottom (manually fill and sharpen all of the corners) and the boat will not stick sponsons, or zig zag with added weight. But without sharpening the corners, the rear weight bias pushes the rear of the boat down in the water, and the water has an easier time of sticking to the radius, and riding up the back of the sponsons.
So in summary, the weight of the .45 would be negligible. The reason I didn't put it in was I wanted the boat to remain
A: a nice simple model that operated as stock, with a rip cord
B: intact for more than 2 runs
C: keep the pipe inside the boat, as the length of the .45 pipe would offset forward weight bias.
I'll get running shots so you can see how well it runs with no camera weight on it.
Anthony
Unfortunately, we didn't get video of it, but we chased my buddy's 1/8 scale Pro Boat with my real boat (The Azure AZ238 in the onboard videos). He did some engine and pipe mods that pushed the boat faster than it was designed to go. We were amazed at how unstable it got with the rear weight bias. It ends up upside down every time.
The 1/12 runs much better with the new weight bias. It will get on plain from a standstill. It also sticks the sponsons less than with the weight aft. If you look at the videos, the forward facing video has the camera on the back, and it is the one where the boat zig zags. The rear facing video has the camera up front, which as you can see, runs much better.
The main reason that the boats hate a rear weight bias is that they have a production friendly radius on every trailing edge. I know this for a fact, as the company I own and design for (Azure) deals with this every day. You would prefer a tight, sharp corner, but glass wont "bend" into the corners, and you get air voids, so you radius the corners so the glass fills them in. The Pro Boats are the same. You can blueprint the bottom (manually fill and sharpen all of the corners) and the boat will not stick sponsons, or zig zag with added weight. But without sharpening the corners, the rear weight bias pushes the rear of the boat down in the water, and the water has an easier time of sticking to the radius, and riding up the back of the sponsons.
So in summary, the weight of the .45 would be negligible. The reason I didn't put it in was I wanted the boat to remain
A: a nice simple model that operated as stock, with a rip cord
B: intact for more than 2 runs
C: keep the pipe inside the boat, as the length of the .45 pipe would offset forward weight bias.
I'll get running shots so you can see how well it runs with no camera weight on it.
Anthony
09-30-2006, 03:58 PM
#22
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
Hydro Junkie
Nice Pay N Pak. Ive been working on one of the old Dumas pay n paks for a while now. Ive put it away for the time being due to working on my TS2. I do however want to start that project again. This one has the solid shaft instead of the flex shaft so Im not sure what Im going to do. Ill probaby just keep the solid shaft and keep everything the way the kit was back when I bought it in like 1989
Scott
Nice Pay N Pak. Ive been working on one of the old Dumas pay n paks for a while now. Ive put it away for the time being due to working on my TS2. I do however want to start that project again. This one has the solid shaft instead of the flex shaft so Im not sure what Im going to do. Ill probaby just keep the solid shaft and keep everything the way the kit was back when I bought it in like 1989
Scott
09-30-2006, 10:05 PM
#23
RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
Tonykalil, I'm very impresed with your last post. It's nice to see someone that understands the where, why and how of hydroplanes. I still wouldn't do the .45 due to the hull's weak construction.
Dougaldy, I'm curious as to which "Pak" you have since Dumas had three, a 30", a 36" Atlas and a 42". I can't comment on the 42", but on the others, the tunnel needs to be widened at least an inch to get them to run better.
Dougaldy, I'm curious as to which "Pak" you have since Dumas had three, a 30", a 36" Atlas and a 42". I can't comment on the 42", but on the others, the tunnel needs to be widened at least an inch to get them to run better.
09-30-2006, 11:39 PM
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RE: 1/12 Miss Bud with Dynamite .32- On board video here!
Hydro Junkie,
Its the 30 in. right now its just sitting in my shop, it kills me everytime I look at it because I know I need to get to work on it. Right now I have an OS .20 FP-M in it. That motor has been discontinued but it is brand new and has never been fired up. There are so many upgrades I would probably need to do to it, but I think I will just finish it and run it as is just for the fun of it.
Scott
Its the 30 in. right now its just sitting in my shop, it kills me everytime I look at it because I know I need to get to work on it. Right now I have an OS .20 FP-M in it. That motor has been discontinued but it is brand new and has never been fired up. There are so many upgrades I would probably need to do to it, but I think I will just finish it and run it as is just for the fun of it.
Scott
