flip3d454

My Feedback: (35)

im getting one of thies in a day or two.
what do i need to do to it to make it go its fastest.

flip

Hydro Junkie

buy a Miss Vegas instead

terry kelly

damn beat me to it.. lol on the other note , you can make a proboat fast but it involves alot of work i would really do what he said, just buy the vegas and spend wwaaaayyyy less money and frustration.

terminator

flip3d454

My Feedback: (35)

im getting it free. dont shoot me down answer my question please.

Sean Bowf

Flip, there is a thread here some place on the MB... do a search for it. I am sure there is a lot of good info in there for you.

Sean

Hydro Junkie

Okay, that's different. You will need to:
1) put on an M435 or 535 prop if it doesn't have one, be sure it's balanced and sharpened
2) move as much weight out of the rear of the boat as possible(at least the battery pack)
3) pull the dynomite engine and drop in an OS or equivelant
4) replace the skid fin, if it still has the stock one.
5) upgrade to 4-40 pushrods for the rudder
6) add an auto bailer to remove most of the water that WILL get in

There is more, but this will get you started

terry kelly

not trying to shoot you down bud , just havin some fun and being real, i have 4 very fast proboat s and 6 vegas's 4 of which are heavily modded and 2 are bone stockers.. i just with experience have chosen to not spend anymore time and cash doing mods to the proboats and switched to the vegas. if you want to make the proboat fast start by adding a os cvrm race engine, i use mine as a belt start only and use a seprate airplane starter to fire it up. i use 3 blade 435/3 props and sometimes 2 blade 535 props, i have on all my boats adjustable struts you can be anywhere from 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch depth, mac 3.5 pipe and stock header, 60 % nitro, os no. 8 plug and sometimes r-5 plug, remove the rear wing and struts , check motor alignment and set drive cable with a bit of slop. "at the strut" 3/32 inch or so.. a good turn fin running parralle with the center of the hull, and a slight curve to it tapering in to the center of the boat, sharpen and polish everything that touches the water , rudder, strut, turnfin.... if you have a seprate water pickup then set it at about 1/8 below the rear shoes so to ease up on the drag too. and scuff the bottom of the sponsons and hull with 600 grit to dull it up a bit, this and some fine tuniong and other little tricks will get you a fast ride and have fun , if you need anything else email or pm me and i will have some more info for you.


terminator

hydroracer11g

Guy's I don't have either of these hydros so I can not comment on them. But give the guy a welcome to the RTR hydros and some help. would you guy's turn down a free Miss Bud or Formula? I know I wouldn't. Hell I almost bought one last week. they look alot more like the real thing than them Vegas.

hydroracer11g

Oops I see I was slow at typing. You guy's have started to give some good info. thank you.

misshydro

I found the Miss Bud thread!!! Here it is!!!![link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2799689/tm.htm[/link] This should help you!! I have three of them!!

flip3d454

My Feedback: (35)

ok i got my free boat. it the older one with the stright shaft.
is there any thing diff about the mods.

flip

Hydro Junkie

Nope, but there are options if you want to do them:
1) Remove the stuffing box and install a flex cable and a strut
2) remove the stuffing box and install a new one that will take a 1/8" shaft as the factory stock ones tend to wear out fairly quickly

flip3d454

My Feedback: (35)

how usefull is the rear wing or can it be taken off. i like the looks of it off.

flip

Hydro Junkie

The wing is used(in this case) for looks more than anything. On a larger boat, the wing is used to fine tune the boat's ride by moving the rear up or down as needed

flip3d454

My Feedback: (35)

also the turn fin is missing which one should i get.

misshydro

get the one from aquacraft/the Grims racing turn fin!!!!! It's set up for both boats,Miss Buds style or Miss Vegas!!

Sean Bowf

Flip, I have zero experience with the proboats, but when I took the wing off my MV, I gained about half a MPH. The MV wing is about 5.3 oz (if you weigh yours, you might be able to figure out how much of a gain you might get by comparing the weight).

The proboats I have seen run, seem to sit in the water pretty tail heavy...so I would think it would be a benefit to get some weight off the back end of it. Of course it riding tail heavy makes for a better ride in rough water though...

Sean

misshydro

The reason why they sit heavy in the rear is because the radio box sits way back at the rear!! That make it rear heavy!![:@] The way I set up my box is,Put the batterys at the front of the box and reciver at the rear of the box!!Thats puts the weight more to mid ship!! I'm back on working on my Miss Bud!! Putting the Miss Vegas adjustable strut and rudder,plus put a.21 back into her!!! I also Ripped out that junk wooden side wall motor mount.It's weakend from the water plus the insert are rusted up=frozen my rubber mounts!! The dummys shouldve sealed the wood plus put a dain hole at the rear of the motor compartment to pervent this proublem!! Also they shouldve installed stainless steel motor mounts inserts!! They put the wrong size on the right side of the boat.One side has 5mm and the rightside has 4mm! Talk about somebody sleeping on the job???[&:] Or drinking suki on the job???[X(]

terry kelly

one thing i did on my proboats is to put the reciever pack in front of the fuel tank this requires you to remove the fuel tank mount and move it to the rear about 3/8inch but the hump 5 cell reciever pack fits snug in foam in the nose , then move the servos around in the now roomy radio box ..lol and then that helps the cg problem a bit .

flip3d454

My Feedback: (35)

what fuel u all using.

flip

terry kelly

o'donnell 60% and sometimes when i have too 50% , i really see no difference in the two but maybe a little longer sleeve life? i just had my miss bud out on smooth water sunday and with my cg at about 3 1/4 inches from the back of the rear of the sponson , she blew off like a rocket. now to tame it down a bit so it is stable. the grim 36/55 prop is one hell of a good prop, i recommend one and a adjustable strut , if you can get a certian person to ever send you one out..

flip3d454

My Feedback: (35)

ok got the boat into the water and the son of o buck dont turn. the rudder turns both ways and even if you put pressure on the rudder it still turns. i found a factory turn fin for a buck so put it on. its fast but wont turn. i actully found the turn fun loose and 1 screw gone. when i got the boat back. do you think that would of done it. but it was tight when i lonched it. (now i know why the turn fin was missing)
lmk what you all think.

flip

misshydro

If that Miss Bud is the first gen/strait shaft one??[&:] You need to drill the hole out bigger and use JB weld and redrill that small stock holes back into it. That area gets weak.[:@]I have the same proublem with my miss bud.Or you can do this = I'm going to do with mine.I'm going to cut a piece of alum about that size of that area,then sand both with 80 grit sand paper and epoxy the alum peice to that area.Then use fiber cloth on top of it paint it and redrill the turn fin hole back into it. The newer Miss Bud flex drive hull has the alum on the inside.Proboat did that because they knew they had proublems with that turn fin not staying tight and the rudder not staying tight too.[:@]

terry kelly

yes mine "1st gen" is kinda like a flexible fiberglass rubber band , if it is ever ran agian i think the rudder mount will just break free completly..lol then i will drive it straight into the beach and be done with it.

Hydro Junkie

This is where some "creative engineering" comes in. The fix for the flexing of the turn fin mounting area is to put in a doubler INSIDE the sponson transom. Sorry misshydro, but putting it on the outside would be like putting Bondo on a balloon, a few flexes and it will break the glue. If you can get some 6061, or better still 7075 aluminum stock, epoxy a piece inside the sponson and another inside the rear of the boat. Drill and tap for your screws and reinstall the fin and rudder USING BLUE LOCTITE to secure the screws. Unless you strip out the aluminum, you should be good to go. On the rudder, make sure you go at least twice as wide as the rudder bracket and from bottom to deck for best strength.