jerj

Hi all picked up the go .28 There are a few issues regarding collet size so I ground down half the collet to fit inside the flywheel, note tc-31/36 collets are easy to find so this is why I did that. (easy to do... find a 3/16" drill bit insert into collet then clamp a file to the bench insert drill bit with tightened down collet into the drill and start spin'n...) also drilled two new engine mount holes in the engine case due to the original engine mount not having enough metal this does not effect the engine one bit. also picked up the standard os .21 header seems short (tube length) for a header... MACS recommends 3-3.5" of tube before the pipe but I guess thats not standard on o.s. marine engines... so now my high nitro tuned macs pipe is short for the hull even at 9" I did have a quiet tuned macs pipe from a previous project Im thinking of popping in.. I would like your opinions on that..? I may have to notch the radio box to get pipe to accept the angle... I posted tons of pics if I did not explain enough refer to them or feel free to reply. take care all hope this engine rips... I will know soon.

misshydro

You might have to customize your header,or this HPI header might of worked on your boat? Most .21-32 likes a pipe lenght about 8 1/2"-9". You could make a tail pipe out of brass to come out the back end of your boat. I'd done that with my vegas and Oberto. You can use the vegas silicon tail pipe tube as a couper to your tune pipe end to the tail pipe.

jerj

Thanks miss hydro, can you measure the approx distance that header sticks out... maybe from center of flange to center of where the pie would meet...hard to explain that but I assume you get it from your post. Thanks

jerj

The radius on the HPI seems really tight a supper hot point at the radius...I may just notch my radio box so the pipe fits nice and reglass... should be fun... kinda.

tuscanigt75

Hey there...I had the same issues with radio box clearence on the sv. I would poke around for different headers and go with the quiet pipe as it should brind your tip out of the rear of the boat. The one ms hydro pointed out from hpi almost worked for me, but I cut too much off by mistake and couldnt find another. I was trying to cut an angle into it that would direct it away from the radio box but I botched it up. So I ended up with an associated truck header, heated it slightly, (low, blue flame, only for a couple of seconds) grabbed it with a shop towel and put a little bend into it. I know it's a different boat, but here's some pics to give you an idea....you may even be able to bend that os header you already have..had to enlarge the exhaust exit hole a little bit...on inside of hull I ca'd a graphite piece from a rc boneyard car, shaped it to fit the black insulation tube that exits the transom, then siliconed it shut.....had to trim a little off my box too....I may tweek the angle more later to give more clearence of the radio box and open the hole some more, but, it all works just fine now...I cut an exhaust coupler into 1/3 and slipped it between the pipe and the box for now...winter project to move the exhaust again...starting to feel like fall already....
***Now that I am awake and coherent, yep, what msvegas said...wasn't thinking, you're boat is longer...looks like a tight squeeze so an extension off the exhust tip will def be the way to go...the header is something you'll have to play with either by cutting or heating/bending....that's gonna be a whole new boat with that combo, like night and day Once you get past your clearance issues, the rest is cake....

Woodmandan2

Update? Problay out having too much fun
[X(]

jerj

I find building to be almost more fun... I have new picks I really wanted the straightest exhaust and cleanest design figuring less half-xxx rigging would eventually be on my side. so I took on cutting out and fiber glassing my radio box a little messy but now I have a working knowledge of glass... this set up will also work with both tuned pipes, I just ordered hi temp silicon 500 degree tube from mCmaster carr a great parts house. 5' of tube 12 bucks cant beat that its 3/8" id and 5/8" od comes in super soft and soft I chose soft as it was going to be semi supportive. Its also fits perfectly no drilling through hull and no need to zip tie on pipe. later all. taking her out to day for break in...

jerj

whoops forgot this part fiber glassing... so after you cut away the area to be glassed. I used the large pipe I had (can be seen in other picks) and fit it into the gap that I just cut away and the I molded femo clay around the pipe and interior of the box so I could easily lay the fresh glass on top. whammo blamo done. later all.

d-lo

great job! but i think your going to want a zip tie on that header, once it heats up, and gets oily, it could blow off, or just make a nice mess out of your clean engine compartment.

looks great, keep us posted on how she runs!


davey

jerj

Thanks got it, pics were in prelim stages of development, broke it in today sucked with the m445, and 30% mext is the ol trusty 50% and s225.

ka350kaptain

Looks like I just found a nice winter project! Let us know how that Go-Engine runs! Good pics of the setup too.

jerj

Will do, I still have to run the boat with the 50% and try a few diffrent props, hopefully its faster than the Dynomite, as of now I honestly dont know. will keep you all posted.

docterEvil

really interrested to hear about the speed diff between the Go and Dynamite. enjoy

jerj

Probably wont happen until saturday sorry all.

Mr.Freeze

can I make 1 suggestion, put a piece of of that aluminum metal tape on you radio box to help shield it from the heat of the pipe. you can get it at most hobby shops and hardware stores for that matter. build looks great I can't wait to see how that go engine does I'm currently putting a go pro 21 in a Vegas myself.

Woodmandan2

Have you run it yet??? When you do please make a Video!

jerj

I'l try to sweet talk the lady into video taping..

jerj

Disappointed... season is running short, and this damn engine... first off this boat can sit on shore just after starting... idling and just start revving at supper high rpm with only a sixteenth of an inch of carb open its fluctuating so much and fuel is consistent I dont know whats up with that, also this engine isn't pushing my props either I have tried the stock 215 way to small, the m445 and the s225, witch seemed to run the best but I was still NEVER able to get it on plane the engine was just running horribly DONT MAKE ME GO BACK TO MY DYNAMITE!! GO-ENGINES at least that thing was tunable and consistent. I tried every needle setting I could staying at least 1.5 turns out. it shipped at about 3 1/4 turns out and manual stated to break in at two and half out. so if anyone has any idea of whats going on pleas let me know. it will rev up and down with the same throttle position and not turning the boat either its very odd, also yes.. I do have new batteries in everything.
so far the go engine is a downer but willing to work with it a bit. also proboat flex cables suck I go through one every time im in the water they always snap at the soldered seam. take care all will keep you all posted. J

misshydro

tell me about the proboat flex cables!! mine would unfrail on me when instailing them on my oberto!!! So when I went over to vegas adjustable strut system I'd used the vegas cable too with no troubles.. Sounds like you might have a air leak some where around the carb area to make it rev up...maybe around the base of it..I use copper red RTV around the base of all my motors.. Dont trust that rubber O rings..

jerj

Thanks I will try that .

jerj

OMG! the crank shaft is bent I swear thats most likely the reason. I pulled the carb to rtv it and I decided to turn over the engine a few times and noticed a quite noticeable wobble in the fly wheel and collet. I dont know how that happened maybe its from tightening down the collet? I used a tiny socket wrench If I replace the shaft I'm sure from running it the two times I will have to replace all the beaings..? let me know your ideas and tips. this is so odd I cant beileve it would bend that easy. I made a video of the wobble and will post it as soon as possible. later all could use your thoughts thanks.

misshydro

that motor should be under warnatie.. If not replace all bearing and crank.. just for the heck of it,check the rod to see if it got bent too.. I never saw or heard of a crank bent on a big block before?? That a defective crank. maybe bad steel or bad prossesing.??Also check the block too to see if that crank took off some of the inner alum out of it too.

Dan S

jerj,

if the crank is hardened steel like its supposed to, I don't think tightening the collet will bent a crank.

I'm not saying its not possible, I just haven' seen it.

I'm thinking of something else that is causing the wobble, so remove the collet, flywheel and flywheel sleeve (cone shape) and rotate the engine again, if its still doing it well hot darn but if its ok, I think that the problem is the flywheel sleeve.

Dan.

jerj

Interesting I may do that, remove the sleve ...but not sure if I can get one to replace it. I'll be in touch with go-engines. I'll keep you all posted.

Dan S

jerj,

Not the piston sleeve!

The flywheel sleeve, the one that is shapped like a cone and slips over the crank than the flywheel goes over it.

Finding a new sleeve/cone spacer should not be hard to find.

good luck,
Dan.