macz

Ok so I fired up my .15 Elam for the the first time idles really well....sounds really good...Question is I just had it on the stand running temps around 190 mark is it ok to do this and not in the water? I switched out receivers and I am using my DX3R...When I gave it some gas it seems to lean out? Is it due to new motor break in and 40 degree temps?

misshydro

190-200 sounds about wright on the temp??On your temp checking,,you need to do that after you run the boat in the water....You dont want to run your motor on the stand because you dont have any loads on your boat.. So your motor wont be set wright.Plus running that boat on the stand for a time could blowup on you!![X(]You dont want that to happen to you..You need to adjust the hight speed screw at 3 turn out and run your boat for two-three laps. If it quits in a short time,then its lean..then turn the needle out 1/8-1/4 turn at a time out until you find that sweet spot..Plus You might want to restricked the waterline intake to the motor..because its cold and cooling the motor off to quickly for the cold weather..ya its to lean.. In cold weather you have to richened it up abit.warm to hot weather you lean it in..What's you highspeed screw set at? On the .15 you subpose to start them at 2 1/2-3 turns out..

macz

I'm new to boats not nitro its already got me worried since I was goin to go electric but got it at a good price until the miss vegas when on sale....I have a nitro 4-tec runs great all the time I hope this isnt a problem child.....

trooper750

Hey Mac..Didn't I read somewhere you had nitro experience with car motors?? You can break your engine in the same way you did those if you wish. Same way I do a new engine...set high speed needle where you can get it started, then open needle valve up till it runs ragged and rich at idle. Idle a few complete tanks thru it on the stand at super rich setting. Then you can hit the water and start leaning it down little by little with each tank full until you have run several tanks thru it. after 5-6 tanks thru it you should be ready to fine tune your HSN to optimum running conditions. If you use this method make sure the flex shaft has been thoroughly lubed beforehand.

Like I said..I have used this method before for cars, trucks and airplane engines and has never failed me! Just remember to take the leaning out process slow and don't try and get too much out of it too soon and you'll be fine!

misshydro

Not a good idea Trooper![X(] cars motors are different!there air cooled[X(] Plane motors are air cooled and you have to have a propeller on them to get them tuned&brokened in wright.Boats motors you have to have a load on them too! But You need a load on the boat motor to get it setup wright=you need it to be in the water,the water is your load plus water as your coolant to your head of your motor[8D].. Trooper how long have you been running boats???[&:] By your postings numbers not very long,just wait until you blow one of your boat motors.[X(]You'll be crying about it.....Even ask the long timers&boat racers who runs nitro boats and they will say the samething on What I'd said.. Thats what I was told to do..and it never failed me..When your doing you break inns at the pond?? Do Not run your motor at full throtle. Only run your motor at 3/4 until you burn 6 tank fulls.. Turn your HSN all the way in then turn it 3 turns out to start with. If it dies on you quick in the pond. then its lean. turn the HSN 1/4 at a time out until it quick dieing on you.. The motor should sound gargled at idle then it should clear out after you burp the throtle..If it bogs on you/dogish then you need to turn the HSN in at 1/4 at a time until your boat starts to speed up/goes faster on you in the pond.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

I wouldn't recommend an idle type break in. The engine never reaches its proper tempurature which wears out the top of the piston because the sleeve never expands at the top like it should.

Keep the needle rich, hit the pond with it and keep it at 3/4 throttle or less. This will keep a light load on the motor, which is different than letting it idle because it keeps the conrod from slapping around.

These engines are tight when new and you're only jamming the conrod if your running a cold idle break-in. Rich settings only worsen that situation due to hydrolic action inside the chamber. When a new engine quits under idle, this is exactly what causes it. Not good.

Light loads with rich setting at running tempurature! No more than 5 min runs with long cool off periods between with the piston down from top dead center. First gallon of fuel, add 3 ounces of added castor, or go with all castor fuel...no full synthetic on a new engine!

It is the heating and cooling of the engine that breaks a motor in, and the type of fuel (castor oil rich), needle setting (rich to carry enough oil through the engine), light loads (to build the proper heat and clearances) that carry it safely through these cycles.

macz

Man how the heck can u adjust the low speed with the header pipe in the way great design.....u can barely get a toothpic in there..I should've went electric

lomcevac540T

My Feedback: (1)

I'm with trooper... we bought four new vegas's and I broke in three of them on the bench, keeping check on the temp and varying from 100 to 180 degrees. The one guy that done his in the water blew the rod the third day he ran it, all others are still running strong. Just keep check on the temp. You can't control or even check the temp while the boat is running around in the water.

macz

I was gonna continue with stand break in but 20-30 degree temps outside I think the fuel is having a hard time reachin the carb when I give it some gas since it leans out......or its bad fuel or fuel tank or fuel lines.....

misshydro

I'm with jetpack on the breakins.. He's been boating since the age of 10 years old and he's in his mid to late 40's.. Ask Ron Olson,Jerry Dunlap,Grimracer..[8D] They all will tell you the samething, break your boat in at the pond...Those two are giving you bad advices..[:'(]I know of two to three people broke there motor on the bench and all ruined there motors by not breaking there motors in wright..[] You dont need to adjust the LSN.. You leave them factory set,unless it wasnt set wright at the factory.. My boyfriend took a small allan wrench and ground the end flat=made it into a side regular screwdriver..Works great..

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Don't these boats come with setup, break-in and running instructions?

Cold water and cold air are not the best conditions for breaking in a new engine. I would only run a well broken in motor that I am familiar with in freezing tempuratures.

Not saying it is impossible, but it all becomes more crititcal on needle settings and keeping head tempuratures.

When the engine runs in cold conditions, it forces the needle valve to be set to a very lean condition to run, which in effect cuts down the oil quanitiy going through the motor - something that a new engine can't affford to starve from.

Bringing fuel in and out of the cold will attract moisture to the fuel. Alky is a moisture magnet, and when a cold jug of fuel is brought in from the cold, it will pull moisture out of the air very easily, and spoil. Methanol is so good at absorbing water, it is used as a fuel line dryer in cars (Heet Gas Line Anti-freeze).

Cold weather running of nitro engines is not really desirable in a lot of respects.

I'll post a couple of break-in instructions to a few of the RC manuals I have around if you are short of written instructions, or you can perform a search in the "Engine" forum here at RCU on Break-In procedures, and have a full day's reading.[8D]

It is tempting to want to run your motor on your new toy, and try and get it broke in before going through the trouble of packing everything up in the car or such and head to the pond and not looking forward to have to retrieve your boat several times due to stalling or whatever trying to break it in at the pond but a cold. slow, lean, no-load attempt at wearing in your new engine is way opposite of what it needs and more than likely why you cant keep it running.

There's really no short cuts on proper break-in. Breaking in a boat motor is even more tempting to take short cuts because most people dont look forward to the fact that it takes time to row out or whatever to retrive a dead boat, and new engines like to die more often than seasoned ones.

If you're attempting a "bench" style break-in the best way would be to adapt an airplane prop and engine mount to it and go from there if your determined.

macz

Yea They come with instructions.....I just wanted to see what it sounded like. I was shocked when I started it It sounded like my old savage x with the tuned pipe. Loud and throaty......I'llwait a bit till it warms up in DE.to get her goin.

f16man

I have run in an aqua .18 with a 9/6 airplane prop and it worked out ok but out on the pond it was a lot more fun, Once you get the hsn set close you really should not have stall probs unless you are in a tight place where having to turn sharp and vary the throttle too much.