Marino420TD

My Feedback: (1)

Does anyone have any pics of their homemade engine test stands? I would like to make one, just need some ideas.

3 Channel Brain

For a engine up to .60 or so just take a piece of 3/4' plywood
& cut a "u" in it to fit the crank case, drill for bolts & nuts (not screws) . Bolt or C clamp it to something solid . . put the tank on or next to the board & hold it w/a bungee cord. note must be bolted/clamped down not hand held.

linclogs

Here's what I use for .049 through .60 size engines. It might accept larger glow fuel engines but .60 is the largest glow engine I've got.

It's made of scrap lumber (2 x 6 and 2 x 4), with an adjustable Tatone cast aluminum engine test stand bolted to the 2 x 6. The whole affair is tightened (using the 2 x 4) into my bench vise, which is located at the end of my work bench near my garage door. The 2 x 4 is bolted onto the bottom of the 2 x 6 with a single carriage bolt (up through the bottom) with a nut and washer on top to tighten down once I've selected the angle I want to set the stand at in relation to the vise/workbench/garage door. When running the engine, I pivot the test stand so the exhaust goes out the garage door. The tank is held on with sheet metal clamps with strips of tire inner tube rubber used as gaskets between the clamps and the tank. The clamps are just the right length so as not to put too much pressure on the plastic tank - the rubber gasket takes up the space so the straps don't cut into or deform the tank.

linclogs

The little throttle-stop mechanism is something I designed and it works great to hold the throttle setting exactly where I want it. It's cut out of sheet metal and the two parts are mounted with a carriage bolt and wing nut. Operation should be self-explanatory.

linclogs

When I needed a test stand for a US Engines 41cc engine I knew it would have to be something a lot more substantial than the one I use for my glow fuel engines. What I came up with is a 1/2" iron "L" (angle iron). The face is drilled to the pattern of the radial mount on the US 41, though additional holes could be made for other engines. The engine kill switch is conveniently mounted right on the back of the face of the stand.

linclogs

The throttle-stop mechanism was a 3/4" bolt that I cut off the hex head and threads, drilled and tapped the bottom to mount to the base plate, and drilled and tapped the top to accept the wing bolt. A "pass through hole" is drilled for the pushrod where the wing bolt will tighten onto the pushrod to hold it at any position.

linclogs

A 2 1/4" flange is bolted to the bottom of the base. It is held on by carriage bolts that are also used to hold the straps for the tank (set up in a similiar manner as the tank for my test stand for the glow fuel engines - see above posts). The flange is used for threading the test stand onto a 38" x 2 1/4" galvanized pipe. I have another pipe cemented into the ground out side (in a gravel area so as not to kill any lawn with spilled gass!). This pipe is about 24" to 30" deep and is capped off at ground level when not in use. When I want to use the test stand, the cap is removed and the 38" pipe is connected to the pipe in the ground with a 2 1/4" threaded coupler.

This stand is probably a lot beefier than it needs to be, but I did want something durable.

mikenlapaz

linclogs
I like your test stands. Of the two throttle setups do you have a preference for testing the larger gasser? It looks like the strap version could be secured under on of the flange bolts on the big stand? Is there a reason for choosing that 2nd method?

Do you do any radio testing of the throttle servo while it is on the stand? Thought I would spot a non-metallic link in the cable wire, or is that only necessary for in-plane application?

My present thought is to mount the vertical pipe to a couple welded to a plate which I can bolt thru the lug bolt holes on a rim with the tire mounted for added weight and resistance. That would make it portable even in the car to the field.

Wished I had more tools
mikenlapaz where is Lincoln?

linclogs

Mike--

The second method (on the large engine test stand) for a means to control the throttle (using the 3/4" bolt) was just faster - only had to cut off the bolt head and threads, drill holes and tap both ends. I prefer the one I made for my smaller test stand but that took a lot more "engineering" (read that as "time"). But both work equally well.

I haven't run the US 41 yet. Waiting for better weather and I don't have any big model built for it yet anyway. Also don't plan to do any radio testing on the stand as it's meant just for the initial engine running. So, having a metal throttle pushrod doesn't matter in this case.

Lincoln is near Sacramento (Northern California).

Jon
(linclogs)

mikenlapaz

linclogs - still wish I had more tools! 3/4" is too big for my equipment.

I have no idea what to expect for vibration of this stand,
your thoughts on: 1/2" allthread (cut to length), 2 nuts, flats, and locks, drill and tap top end for 10-24 and hole for control rod.

This would allow vertical post move if necessary for different linkage location with only a new hole in the base.

Is there a preferred order of drilling the intersecting holes for a clean inside junction? Maybe it is NBD but have feeling you may have more experience and knowledge.
mikenlapaz

Forgues Research

My Feedback: (7)

Here is my setup.

ljones5000

My Feedback: (2)

Aerographix, I like your stand but with that large engine, what keeps it from coming after you when you fire it up? The base appears to be a Workmate.....is it?

How do you fasten the base to the floor, or do you?

ljones5000

Forgues Research

My Feedback: (7)

It is a workmate. I had it running yesterday at 1/4 throttle and I was hanging on for dear life, seriously, I will be installing a servo receiver to run it from a remote area, the air blast is too much for my face.

the whole thing will be tied down with ropes in my back yard, and yes with these mufflers, the noise is quite acceptable.

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

Below are some pics of my engine test bench made from oak bookshelves. A C.B. Tatone aluminum engine test stand, which can handle engines from 0.30 to 1.30, is mounted to the bench.



Here is a close-up of the test stand:


Here we have a YS FZ63 four stroke mounted:


Here is a rear view:


Each leg of the test bench has two 90° metal brackets attached to it, which allow me to secure the test bench to the ground in the backyard with metal stakes:

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

Below are some pics of my engine test bench in action. The test bench was bolted down securely to my rear deck using wood screws. It turned out that the brick at the rear wasn't even needed.





Brand new YS 63 running super rich and making a lot of smoke:


The bench was bolted down at all four corners. This baby wasn't going anywhere.

Sense963

My Feedback: (10)

What does your wife say about blasting glow fuel all over the deck?! Mine would be tight lipped about that...
How much does the tatone stand run? I've got an older goldberg from rock maple that does a good job, but have to modify it a bit...

Richard L.

My Feedback: (24)

No wife = no worry.

I think I paid around $35 for the aluminum Tatone engine test stand from my LHS.

shinsfan

I use the same CBA Tatone test stand attached to a 2x6. Works great for anything up to a 60 sized 2 stroke. Recently, I even bolted in a saito 100 without any difficulty.

For the throttle hook-up I use a simple method. I use a standard servo horn and a 2 inch drywall screw. The servo horn fits very snug on the drywall screw and does not vibrate loose. I have a small pushrod with a clevis on the trottle and a z-bend at the control horn. Because I have the whole shebang mounted on a 2x6, I can move the drywall screw anywhere I need to fit the carb configuration.

Although not the most visually appealing setup, sometimes the simplist solutions are the most effective...

adrian-RCU

our home made engine stand runs from 40 to 210

adrian-RCU

another angle

bholden

here's a pic of one I saw on ebay........ I posted a question about this same subject on the "beginners" forum. If anyone has a test stand that they want to sell please let me know. Thanks

Alex

mstroh3961

My Feedback: (4)

Here is mine. It was made out of 3/4 plywood, held together with wood glue, biscuits, and screws. Engine is a saito 91! I had to add the ammo cans full of lead to keep it from sliding the table down the driveway!

Regards
Mark

mstroh3961

My Feedback: (4)

Here is a better view from the side!

Regards
Mark

Volfy

My Feedback: (23)

Mine are just a bunch of 2x4's and 2x6 blocks screwed onto my home-made sawhorse. It's amazing what contraptions you can come up with culled lumber, a circular saw and a drill driver.

Whatever you do though, it's important that you elevate the engine to the proper working height. It's also nice to build a stand that you can reposition depending on the prevailing wind direction. Nothing worse than having smoke blown all over yourself when breaking in a motor.

crossed thumbs-delete

Marino420td

Check out this site. They are excellent test stands.

www.pspmfg.com