Help with PPG paints!
#1
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Is anyone familiar with PPG paints? I just painted a portion of my FW D9 with their Omni MTK paint. It goes on very easily and covers very well. Well, I forgot to mix in the catalist. Its supposed to be 4 parts paint, 1 part reducer, and 1 part catalist.
Question is, will the paint not dry at all, or just take a long time to cure?
Thanks all,
Bill
Question is, will the paint not dry at all, or just take a long time to cure?
Thanks all,
Bill
#2
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Oh boy, I hate to say this, but you`ve got a mess on your hands. The paint may dry in time, but it will be dull , not stick very well and nitro will destroy it quickly. If it does dry , It will also be brittle and probably flake off in a short time.
Sorry.
Sorry.
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ya just about 2nd that
any kind of achool or reducer will wipe it off
what i do is ttry to get as much off it off as i could and spray a adhesion promoter down on it ppg has it in a spray but you can try bulldog. you can find that at any paint shop. spray that over the bad area and try agin. also is this fabic or plastic??
any kind of achool or reducer will wipe it off
what i do is ttry to get as much off it off as i could and spray a adhesion promoter down on it ppg has it in a spray but you can try bulldog. you can find that at any paint shop. spray that over the bad area and try agin. also is this fabic or plastic??
#4
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Ditto. The MTK will air dry as the solvent evaporates but since we are missing the catalyst there won't be any cross linking (curing). Chemically the finish will be very unstable and the mildest of solvents will wipe it right off the plane. I would let it come to an air dried stage and then SAND it off and re-apply. Yes, I said solvent will take it off but you'll most likely destroy the primer ( depending on what you have used ) in the process. Hopefully the portion you have painted is small. Don't worry, you can fix it and I bet you won't make that mistake again.
Best of luck,
Dan
www.gocolours.com
Best of luck,
Dan
www.gocolours.com
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It may take a long time to dry; as you probubly know, the catylist is there to start the moleicule bonding that is drying. It might be accelerated by keeping it warm, thus, allowing all the molecules to move and evaperate faster.
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Hey guys, thanks for the info. This is what I was afraid of. The pain was sprayed over already cured paint shot on fiberglass. I was just changing the colors. Because of the already painted surface, I did not use primer except on a few touched up spots. I was planning on applying a final coat of hobbypoxy clear over all of it when it cured. This would fuel proof it but do you think this would stabilize it?
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I'm afraid I'll have to chime in with the other folks here and go with take acetone/reducer and just simply take it off. If the finish underneath the plane is cured it will only take off the uncured paint. I don't believe I would try spraying another coat of anything on top of the mistake.... I found out the hard way that whatever the mixing ration is, that's what it is... creativity is NOT rewarded...
Dan
Carolina Custom Aircraft
Dan
Carolina Custom Aircraft
#8
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Reducer should be safe to take it off being over already cured material but there is no such thing as stabilizing the mistake. What's done is done, it must come off..
Dan
Dan
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Yep. Omni is an enamel, use reducer to take it off. If the original paint has been on a while, the reducer will not even touch it. May take your primer off though.
You should be able to remove it all without any damage to the underlying original paint.
Just have to reprime and prep it again.
I work with PPG all day long.....I run a collision center.
You should be able to remove it all without any damage to the underlying original paint.
Just have to reprime and prep it again.
I work with PPG all day long.....I run a collision center.