Rudolph Hart

Hello kitbuilder,single pack (airdry only) paints are not capable of doing this for many reasons unless you have access to something very exotic and not generally available to the public,even imron which is a POLYURETHANE and not an epoxy is'nt supposed to be sold over the counter here,professional use only,back to your single pack,the most obvious reason for poor fuel proofing being that whatever agent,including water,that was used to thin it so it could be sprayed must be released from the film once it has been applied.This time can vary depending on how volotile it is,up to some months.This leaves a very microscopically rough surface full of pinholes as the thinning agent escapes to the atmosphere and when you look at it carefully after it has initially flashed off,and feels dry.That's what the fuel drops down into.FULL cure times vary a lot also and if you can get a manufacturers tech data sheet please do.

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

After 24 hours the 15% fuel did effect the Krylon clear over latex. Going to let it set another day or two and see if things change.

bayward

Here is a [link=http://www2.spraymax.de/360.0.html?&L=1]two part urethane clear coat[/link] in an aerosol can I came across today. I did not know you could get a two part clear as a stock item. Looks to be around $20.00 a can at the various online supply houses.

Hopefully it is compatible with Krylon as a base coat. Do the automotive parts stores sell base coat colors in aerosol cans ? That will be compatible with the Spraymax urethane ?

Bob

sierracharlie

My Feedback: (21)

I used Krylon for the 1st time to fuel proof graffics placed on iron-on covering. I have yet to fly this plane and the Krylon has curred all winter. Then I read this thread. I took a 2x3 piece of balsa covered it and clear coated with Krylon. This curred for 1 month then with one of my other planes I held this behind the exhaust for a short time before each flight. At the end of the day I used Fantastik brand cleaner and either 100% of the paint came off or 100% stayed on. I cannot see any change at all.

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

I think you would know if it came off. Your towel or the plane would show some sort of sign of a problem. My test has been with flat clear. Perhaps gloss clear would be different. Did you use gloss clear on your plane?

blvdbuzzard

The auto paint store I use will custom mix 2 part enamels and put them in a rattle can. They are good for 2 may 3 days if you put them in the fridge. I pick them up on Friday and spray Saturday.

It is the same paint I have in the quart cans. PPG auto paint. The last rattle can cost me $17.00 but well worth the fuel proof finish.


Dru.

P.S. Do not waste your time trying to use it after the 3rd day. No use trying to spray oatmeal.

freeair

normally the 2 pack spray cans that are ready mixed to go do have a good shelf life until the can is activated, i am not sure how this activation works but i feel its the way the materials are added to the can such as part 1 then the gas then part2 , when the can is activated the gas seperates away and allows part 1 and part 2 to mix together.

build light

aaflyer, how about a completely different approach and cover the model in Doculam or some other covering that is clear and yet also known to be fuel proof?

This would allow the paint to be seen as well as preserved. Doculam has never been known to yellow over the years and is completely fuel proof. In addition it does not display the sagging or wrinkling properties that $kote is known to have.

Point is: instead of spraying something on and hoping it will work, cover it in something you know will work!

Robert

John 38

Is doculam similar to kitchen wrap ? sounds like a good approach if you can get it on evenly over the compound curves of the fusalage

build light

Doculam is the trademark name of a mylar film like most iron on coverings. The heat activated adhesive is a milky white color but after heat is applied turns almost clear as glass. It comes in various thicknesses and widths, I like the 1.5 mil.
You may use a standard covering iron but it does take a bit more heat. I do not know about using over foam.

You can find more info here:
http://www.dhaerotech.com/giantblog5.htm

And here:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/sear...mitbutton=+OK+

Robert

frets24

My Feedback: (15)

has anyone experienced the lusterkote flat clear turning dark , as in almost olive, over time? Is there any type of fuel proof UV resistant clearcote?

AA5BY

My experience tells me that the Krylon does usually test ok with nitro fuels but given time, fuel will soften and wrinkle and release the paint from areas where fuel from inside the cowl creeps back onto the paint after clean ups.

sierracharlie

My Feedback: (21)

Oldscaleguy, I did use Gloss.

krusstygun

i am thinking of airbrushing a flame job on one of my planes .
does anyone know of anything that is compatable with acrylic paint and is fuel proof that can be applied with an airbrush?

SpaceCowboy

My Feedback: (2)

If assume you are talking about nitro fuel.

I tested some automotive truck clear coat spray paint over some blue enamel paint with 10 % nitro.

I let it dry overnight and then put a drop of 10% on it for an hour.

It took the shine off it, but no colour came off on the paper towel.

I bought it from Canadian Tire.

OldScaleGuy

My Feedback: (2)

I sprayed flat Lusterkote over latex and Krylon and both seem to be compatible. So far, i see no issues except the flat Lusterkote is not so flat, is appears to have some luster.... no pun intended.

Rudolph Hart

You can fix that by rubbing it with a soft rag and some coarse cutting compound.

krusstygun

i found a clear coat that works well with acrylic paint is this faskolor paint for lexan .
part #40200 faskoat water based flexible , non toxic
the only bad thing is that it has to be applied with an airbrush.
once it is applied it is clear, fuel proof and doesn't change the colour
i sure like it . dries over night

Rudolph Hart

Hi crusty and good luck with the flame job,they look nice when properly done.Acrylic is compatible with acrylic and thats it.For the mix and matchers out there who experiment good luck and milage varies.You might try basecoat colours for the flames and a 2k clear over the top.

Larry D.

My Feedback: (2)

The two part automotive clear in a can has a small container inside the larger can. There is a cap that is put on the bottom valve and when pushed, it punches a hole in the inner activater can, shake well and spray away. Once mixed it has a short shelf life.

Rudolph Hart

You can extend that by storing it in the fridge overnight

green river rc

My Feedback: (2)

Minwax Polycrlic is NOT EVEN CLOSE to being fuel proof, I have tested it. I have also tested regular Minwax, Duplicolor clear and they will gun up fast on you when exposed to raw fuel. I suggest to everyone to make a test sample first like I did.

tony0707

hi i have been using rustoleum black and white paints- for many years   they are fuel proof-   but was told by a very good friend and great model buider -ONLY THE CANS WITH A LOT OF NUMBER  SEVENS  IN THE SCEW NUMBER  (at the end of the number )  ARE THOSE THAT ARE FUEL PROOFyou can  also aquire spray bottles at any major home paint dealer -that will spray any paint you put into that bottle-works off a compressed  air container

sierracharlie

My Feedback: (21)

Well, I finally got out to the field and test flew the Krylon clear coat that cured all winter. It was about 85 and very humid. After a full afternoon of flying I began to clean the plane and the Krylon became very sticky, bubbled and for the most part came off. What a mess! even the paper towel stuck to it. Two weeks later its still a sticky mess! No more krylon for me.</p>

Avaiojet

Many automobile body shops will be glad to spray two part clears over prepaired and painted models.

Automotive clears will work quite well over many paint products, including Krylon. However, I personally would use House of Koloror other base coat products used in this industry. Spies Hecker is my first choice and Dupont is on the choice list also.

I've used One Shot enamel under clear coat with no reaction. Both brushed and air brushed.

Dope from Brodack is used on model airplanes repeatedly and is available in many colors. If you want to learn about paint, talk to the CL guys.

I have over 40 years of applied paint skills with art, graphics, airbrush and brush lettering as a paid professional.

I have no idea why modelers insist on re-inventing methods of painting? I would never consider any latex house paint for use on a model. I wouldn't use a water based product either, regardless of the rated success of it.

But that's me.

Here are some items, my work actually,that have been clear coated with automotive clears.