pyromatic177

Yeah it really does! It's got plenty of power on 4s

padams10001

Using one with a 2700kv motor on 4s. Has enough power for standing backflips (and breakages) and also a decent amount of speed.

65535

Well after exploding another ring gear set I got my truck repaired after Thanksgiving.<div>
</div><div>It does make a weird noise when it comes out of a wheely like gears popping past each other but it is very intermittent only when landing hard.</div><div>
</div><div>I also added an upgrade while I was working on it.</div><div>
</div><div>Wired in a CC BEC set to 7.4V powering only the servo. That puts it at over 400Oz*in torque and 0.09s 60 degree transit time.</div><div>
</div><div>I also recently got some stuff from Tower including Badlands on Desperado rims, 40 series Road Rage with Axial oversized rims. Also installed a sway bar.</div><div>
</div><div>However this thing is still giving me trouble with the diffs. It makes that aforementioned noise like a busted diff when landing wheelies but nothing feels damaged.</div><div>
</div><div>I did pull apart the front diff casing to find one bearing shredded and the other damaged on the input gear. I'm wondering if that housing is shot. I should probably replace it.</div><div>
</div><div>Is anyone having issues with those blue seals in the diff getting ruined left and right?</div>

iexion

For some reason my EVX2 just stopped working which obviously kinda sucks. Since Ive been looking at the HobbyWing stuff for a while now, i decided to buy a M6a 150a "sensored" combo ($195 shipped)
Even comes with a mounting plate and hardware to mount the esc to the factory spot. Ideally it'll be running on two 2s 5000mah 30c lipos but I might try out two 3s 30c batts i bought last week for a different project
Either way this should be kinda interesting

[link=http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-combo-m6a.html]HobbyWing 150a M6A Combo[/link]

TheKennyKiller

I think that's the same setup Pyro was using with his E-Revo, with a 2000kv motor he was doing standing back flips on 4S, if you're into that kind of thing.


So I pulled my E-Revo out of storage (under the bed) the other day. Looking at it sitting on the work bench and all I want to do is drive it but the weather has been crap around here lately, if it's not stinking hot it's raining. Really hoping to get out for some full on bashing soon, if I do I'll try to get some video.

I wish this thread was more active but hey what can ya do, the only time I see the ERBE brought up whilst perusing the forums is when someone is going on about how much better the MT4 G3 is than the E-Revo.

pyromatic177

Kenny is correct that was the combo i used. Great quaiity stuff IMO

JUCD VPR

What do you guys think about this spring/Oil wt set up.

Front = Blue spring (60wt oil)
Rear = Silver Spring (60wt oil)

I am bottoming out on high jumps. Currently running stock suspension set up.

Mspeed

Revo's are heavier in the rear vs front, the blue springs are heavier springs than the silver ones. If you are going to use those springs, I would swap the blues in the rear; however, I don't recommend those springs unless you are running some really heavy batteries.

When I first starting bashing with the e-revo, I tried everything to keep it from bottoming out so easy in the rear. I tried it all, purple springs, #3 hole pistons, 100 wt shock oil, even diff. fluid in the rear shocks. I never had a issue with the front at all just the rear. Not until I started racing did I see the light! I started adjusting things, trying out things, a lot of reading and talking with other guys till I found out its ok to bottom out.

When I run 6s and bash, I use the stock gold springs in the rear with 60 to 80 wt shock oil #3 pistons, fronts I use orange with 60 wt shock oil, #2 pistons. It bottoms out hard in the rear with any kind of small jump, but never bounces or rebounds.

Some other things that make a difference is suspension drop setting, spring preload, and rocker choice.

If you want to try and prevent bottoming out, your stiffest set up is going to be p3 rockers, purple springs, 100+wt shock oil, #3 pistons, inside hole for all push rods and a lot of spring preload. That should break a few rockers.

iexion

Ive been too lazy to put the vids I took (that and this computer is a POS we need to replace)

Anyways the HobbyWing kit has been great except for not being able to update the programming box. I toned down the timing and went with 68/17 for gearing. Has plenty of power.
Went out for some running in the yard and jumped of a snow pile, landed a bit off and snapped the front tie rod... No biggy ordered some more parts. Parts come in, fix tie rod, take truck out for another run, 3 minutes later I break the same dam part[&:]?!!?

Not sure whats going on considering I took the truck to a skate park and didnt cause this much damage. Is there a better upgrade for the from tie rods (to the steering)?

65535

If you're running the stock tie links I would suggest giving the aluminum ones a shot, or Lunsford. I think the alloy of steel used in those tie links isn't up to snuff. I've had great luck with the aluminum tube tie links.<div>
</div><div>I had my rear toe link break. PM me your address and I'll send you 3 of the stock tie links that I swapped out.</div>

iexion

When I ordered my tie rods (eBay) It came with a full set so I still have 2 left but Im going to have to look into aluminum. Thanks for the idea [:-]

mercerbeef

Does the hood scoop/ air intake on the pro line slipstream body line up with the motor? Because I'm thinking of getting one of these, might get it anyway if it don't .

http://www.rbinnovations.com/category_s/76.htm

tictactics

any one dealt with castle creations on motor repair work? will be non warranty, and if reading their site right its 100.00 flat fee,
during a high speed test run caught a pot hole,ended up snapping off back body mount/post and almost grinding the white power wire in half.
question is if thats how that is, 100 flat fee. almost be better off picking up a new pick n pull motor off ebay, seen a few for 102-106

Large Larry

If it's only the broken wire you can just solder it back together. If you don't want to do it yourself a hobby shop should be able to do it fairly cheaply.

tictactics

issue is its right at the grommet going into the motor,and inside literally have less then a half inch wire left,decent with a iron, but dont know bout that just yet lol

Johnryan30

I'm looking for a transmission/front diff for my e revo conversion if anyone has one or suggestions for alternative options