Rollin Thunder

Maybe you could borrow a camera from your graphics card and give us a peek.

FlyBob4

Good ideas, I thought about heating the punch first to help the threads let go, what do you think?

Rollin Thunder

Yep I thought about that too. But then decided against it because I might let the punch melt into the the side and off course. Then again this is all speculation. It might help but try it last.

Rattlecat

If there is any thing left of the screw sticking out, then maybe serrating a steel or brass tube that just fits over it and drill A larger hole. I don't know if hammering or pressing will break the frame. If you have a friend with a lathe, then a special bit for a soldering iron turned to the screw diameter may be able to push it out. Too bad I can't get at the laser anymore, I could blast it out. Maybe a small nail , flattened on the end, and held in the soldering iron with a screw would work to heat, melt, push.
Photo of gear coming soon. (1/2 hr ? )
CH

Rattlecat

Here are the photos. I can't make the wobble show as much as in real life because the gear kept moving over, and you can't rock it back and forth to position it. Of course I shook the camera on the first Microheli photo and couldn't tell on the viewscreen. It is the green one. Still, today, all errors seemed smaller. Maybe my mind distorted the view. I will replace the Microheli photos soon.

EDIT : New photos on next page now.

CH

HeliSmith

I ordered SG90's and an SG50 but I destroyed one of my SG90's. I am going to go by Hobby People and pickup a Cirrus CS301 9g Micro Servo to use with my collective. Is it a bad idea to mix servos? Is the Cirrus CS301 a good servo?

Thanks,

HS

P.S.

I can't stand this tail servo glitching sound. It was present with the stock servo and it remains present with the SG50. Orion did that receiver you were going to try out ever arrive? If that one doesn't work I am thinking to go with a Berg 7L. I want to upgrade to a DX7 and AR7000 combo but not right now.

Orion1024

helismith,

Have you switched your gyro to 'Normal' mode yet? That tail servo twitching might be due to the gyro being in 'AVCS' mode. If you switch it to 'Normal', also turn on Revo. Regarding the receiver, it appears Walkera is using a proprietary radio...the cyclic and rudder work, but the pitch isn't available and switching to 'Idle-up' has no effect! Well, looks like I'm going to break down and get that Futaba 6EXH radio, but at least I already have two receivers.

HeliSmith

Orion,

Ok I will check out the AVCS and Revo settings tonight when I get home. Man that sucks about the RX, does that mean the Berg definately won't work either? I checked out that Futabe 6EXH @ Helihobby just now. 219.00 and it comes with an RX, charger and some other perks. Boy I wanted to buy it but my wife would have my skull!

I just went ahead and ordered one more TowerPro 9g. Helihobby guys told me not to mix servos within an application. You have to love a hobby shop that will turn you away versus bending you over. They don't carry TowerPro.

HS

Rollin Thunder

Chop

Would you say there is room for a 12T with the micro gear? Thanks for the pics. very helpful.

Rollin Thunder

helismith

It's ok to use a different servo on the pitch and tail. Those are independent servos. Just don't mix the cyclonic servos because they are a team.

Orion1024

helismith,

I doubt the Berg is going to work either. The first thing I noticed with the 6ch Corona RX was that there was no output for the pitch servo, even though there were two unused channels (ch 5 & 6). So I guessed that Walkera might be using ch 7 or 8 for the pitch servo. Then I noticed that the Idle-up switch didn't change the throttle behaviour, so that sank that idea right there. Oh well, I still need another set of servos anyway. You can do a lot better than $219 for that radio - $170 from Tower.

E_Heli

helismith

The tail servo will creep toward the end point if the gyro is in the AVCS mode. You can adjust the Tx to stop the creeps if yours is a computer radio. The best way to test the tail servo is to by-pass the gyro, plug it directly in the rudder channel for testing purpose.

E_Heli

The helihobby guy is partially right, for W#36, you can mix and match servos, preferable all 3 for the cyclics are the same but at least the aileron and elevator are the same, the pitch and the tail one can use other comparble one.

But for the ccpm type helo, all 3 cyclic servos should be identical.

E_Heli

helismith

Forgot to mention about the servos, make sure you check the end point movement of the servos specially the pitch one, I had strip gears on couple of my pitch servo with the W#36, do not over extended the PLT/PZT knobs and double check there's no buzzing noise when you wiggle the Tx sticks to the extreme ends.

Rattlecat

I just had been testing with a 14t and there was lots of room left with the 400DF. I am thinking seriously of converting to a DF60 type belt system. The clearance between the MH gear and the belt cog is tight, but they do turn in the direction that would not snag, counter rotation of the main gear, belt cog, and a belt skip may have caused a snag.
I did some more testing today and you may be surprized to find that the Walkera one-way bearing holds more true than the Align one I bought for a test. GoOoly Sargent ! Surprize, surprize, surprize ! And the one on my flying DF36 has actually gotten better with a bunch of hard climbs. Maybe it presses the bearing case more true after some punches. But the catch is that the one-way may grab better if the outer case has some ripple. Maybe another point for the MicroHeli gear. The thicker metal hub will likely help the one-way hold it's shape, where the soft nylon and thin metal band can easily expand.
One thing that makes the test inconclusive is the fact that I have the Walkera one-way on the MH gear, and the Align one-way on the Walkera gear. And I did make my own hub for the MH gear, but I indicated it to be turning to 0.00025 inch true.
I took some new photos with the 400DF and 14t to make a more clear presentation. and they are below.

I sort of think that it may be possible to inprove a plastic gear with a dip in it. Find the low side, mark the low side, then mash it in a smooth jawed vice, carefully (!). Not sure how that would work, but best to be sure that low is consistantly tracking low in that sector.

CH

scorp27

heres the futaba radio for almost 50 bucks less at tower. Thats 50 bucks for upgrades http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0093p?&C=JJK

Rollin Thunder

chop

Thanks for the 14T pics. that's exactly what I was wondering. The MH gear has more teeth 250T right? Would you post or PM a link? Thanks!

Orion

I wouldn't use the servos that come with the 6EXH. They are flimsy. I tried them at first but went back to SG90's.

HeliSmith

So I have 90°'d this all perfect and measured that all perfect. I have weighed the blades, tested this and oiled that. I took a bunch of pictures all proud of my new servos...

So I am confident I want to try this thing. I adjusted my pitch and said what the heck. I set it in the middle of the floor and spun it up. It wants to tip right away and I haven't even started to get light yet.. Checked the swash checked the balancing. Tried again it wants to just tip. Set it up on the table and realized it is possible to bolt one blade up backwards.

I have deleted all those pictures.

P.S. So the switchs on the gyro.. Put AVCS to Nor and on the other put it to Nor or leave it on Rev?

HS

Orion1024

'AVCS' to 'Normal' and leave the other on reverse. Be prepared regarding the pitch for you first flight...the 36 can come down quickly and you need to react fast with throttle if that's the case. It doesn't gracefully 'float' down like the #4 does.

HeliSmith

It is too windy here right now so I fired it up in the garage. I only took it up about 1 foot and I got nervous and closed the throttle. Luckily it landed square on the skids..

So what do you have to do ease off the throttle? I don't want to bury it into the floor, I just want to descend.. :P Oh and I can see that slowing the blades before a crash like the DF4 isn't going to work either. Where's that air brake mod link again?

Orion1024

helismith,

If the pitch is set properly and there is no binding anywhere, altitude is pretty easy to control. However, you just need to be prepared if somethings not right and the pitch jumps and the heli starts ascending or descending faster than you want. I had this happen to me before when the pitch servo was bad and jumpy and the 'U' connector was binding. If you get into this situation you just need to react quickly with the throttle up or down as needed. Yes, you want to do everything possible to pull out of a bad situation...just about any crash will bend the main shaft, flybar, and bust the blades.

spOon2410

Hey, how do I do auto rotations? I know I need to get the throttle to stop engaging the motor somehow so that it just controls pitch, and I got it to work once, but I cant figure out what I did? Do you just drop the throttle to zero fast then wait and increase it again?

Also, Helismith: what servos did you install? I ordered some tower pro 9g ones and am waiting for them in the mail. Does anyone have any tips on installing them? Or should they be pretty basic?

Thanks,

HeliSmith

Yes TowerPro 9g servos and they are easy to install. One tip is be careful when putting in the two front servos as that you don't mar the wire insulation on the servos. Also one of the front servo holes are bigger so you put the first one in and slide it over and then you put the other one in.

I lengthened one servo wire by soldering and heatshrinking in a longer wire. Rollin Thunder said not to worry about this and it probably isn't necessary but I have an outrunner motor and I was worried about it rubbing on the can.

HS

spOon2410

Alright sounds good. I dont think I will have to worry about the wires being too short, because i have the walk. 35 with the Rx in the front.
I dont understand what you were saying "don't mar the wire insulation..." Did you have the wire going the wrong way...or how did that happen/how do I avoid wrecking the wire?
Thanks again.

HeliSmith

I bared my wires on one servo when I pushed it through the frame. But I wanted my wires to be perfect and I took it in and out like 5 times. You will be fine because as you said you aren't stretching your wires across the whole frame.

HS