Walkera 22e for a Beginner?
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Is the Walkera/Dragonfly 22e a decent helicopter for a beginner? I'd really only like to spend around $150 to get started into the hobby? I'd just fly it occasionally on the weekends and tinker with it at nights. I have rc nitro car experience and some airplane flying experience. Overall is this a decent beginner heli or is there something better out there I should be looking at? Thanks for all the help or advice you can give.
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Hello I like the counter rotating blade stlye choppers, I have two Co Co lamas and they fly great, I bought them online for $ 98.00 plus shipping. Take a look at the add they have at Hobby Lobby, when the flyer was able to put down the controller on a table with it hovering that sold me. Also I have flown outside and it will climb almost out of sight. But they do not have to much forward speed, they make up for in handling. All I read about is the other brands with battery and other problems but for me I have almost a hundred flights indoors this winter,and very little damage if any. Take a look at my gallery, Seaya.
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If you are begiiner, you should get the esky lama 2 - as it is the good beginner rc helicopter
- [link=http://www.linknety.com/modevideos/demo/zoom.php?id=14]Lama 2 flying video[/link]
- [link=http://www.linknety.com/modevideos/demo/zoom.php?id=14]Lama 2 flying video[/link]
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I always recommend to beginners that the larger the heli the better so something the size of a Raptor 30 would be sooo much easier to learn with and cheap on parts for fixing after crashing though bigger is costlier. Also, I am convinced that battery time limits getting to grips with stick learning. Having said that, the 22E isn't at all bad and if you were to insist on having this size bird then why not! At least it is fairly inexpensive.
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Well I'm still between this 22e and the Coco Lama, dual rotor type heli's. For the Walkera 22e how long is the flight time and time to recharge the battery? Also, what typically goes wrong and what replacement parts should I buy? Who is the best retailer to buy parts from also? What are the best initial upgrades to buy in order to get longer flight times and a more reliablie heli? Many thanks for the input
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BLBncsu
the 22E is a good heli but for begginers it will be mush harder for you to hover.. stock battery and motor will only last 5 mins flying time and you will more likely to upgrade to lipo/brushless to make it beter and stable in flight... dual rotor like the Esky Lama and Hirobo are really easy to fly.. it last around 10 mins flight but it is only good indoors.. it is worst outside specially if there is a small gust of wind... If you really want to start this hobby i bet you will be learning more if you get the 22E CP
the 22E is a good heli but for begginers it will be mush harder for you to hover.. stock battery and motor will only last 5 mins flying time and you will more likely to upgrade to lipo/brushless to make it beter and stable in flight... dual rotor like the Esky Lama and Hirobo are really easy to fly.. it last around 10 mins flight but it is only good indoors.. it is worst outside specially if there is a small gust of wind... If you really want to start this hobby i bet you will be learning more if you get the 22E CP
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Thanks for the info. I think I will get the 22e and go ahead and get the LiPo battery. Are there any spare parts I should go ahead and order? Parts that typically break when learning to fly or fail often I figure I'd go ahead and order to have spare's around.
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For the 22E the best spares that you must always have are the main blades and the tail motor.. main foam blades get chip off easily and break in every hit it encounters.. the tail motor tend to burn out when using lipo since you are usign the heli longer.. heat tend to fry the metal fingers that connects to the motor armateur... best that you get heatsinks for the tail nd the main motor.. this gives it extra life....
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The heatsinks you are talking about, can you buy those are can you make them yourself? I'm going to have to go back to my thermodynamic and heat conductivity classes if I have to make my own heat sinks. Can you fill me in on these heat sinks? Thanks.
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You can just buy them they come cheap anyway it will be harder for you to make one.. it cost only around $2.00 I got mine for only $1.65 and $1.50 for my tail heatsink... its better than always buying a $6 N30 tail motor as replacement due to worn out busted easily...
you can get the GWS heatsinks they provinde the tail and the Main motor.. or you can try searching for the Blade CP this also comes cheap..
If you want you can make one also.. but you will be having to machine, grind, lathe aluminum bars to create the desired shape and dimension..
you can get the GWS heatsinks they provinde the tail and the Main motor.. or you can try searching for the Blade CP this also comes cheap..
If you want you can make one also.. but you will be having to machine, grind, lathe aluminum bars to create the desired shape and dimension..
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Besides the heat sinks and main blades, what are the other typical things I should stock up on (swash blades, gears, fly-bars, etc....) Thanks for all your help.
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most of the time you will be breaking the blades since this are very fragile and easily broken.. if you had a bad crash the tail boom is also that fragile most of odd crashes tend to get a boom strike if you somewhat have a bad landing... tail props also get broken easily in bad landings... the main gear and the tail gear are somewhat not that easily broken not unless you use brushless with high Kv which tend to eat down you gear tooth.. but this rarely happens..
have spares for the ff....
Main Blades
Tail rotor Blade
Tail Motor
Tail Boom
servos.. walkera servos suck.. get worn out servo motor easily
have spares for the ff....
Main Blades
Tail rotor Blade
Tail Motor
Tail Boom
servos.. walkera servos suck.. get worn out servo motor easily
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Ha!
I just broke the tail boom yesterday!!!
I had adjust the link between the set of linkage and the pitch as to gain easier lift.
It worked and it lifted more quicker than I expected.
So I landed it... hard...
But got the spare parts with a very cheap price in China!
I just broke the tail boom yesterday!!!
I had adjust the link between the set of linkage and the pitch as to gain easier lift.
It worked and it lifted more quicker than I expected.
So I landed it... hard...
But got the spare parts with a very cheap price in China!
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ORIGINAL: Ippie
Ha!
I just broke the tail boom yesterday!!!
I had adjust the link between the set of linkage and the pitch as to gain easier lift.
It worked and it lifted more quicker than I expected.
So I landed it... hard...
But got the spare parts with a very cheap price in China!
Ha!
I just broke the tail boom yesterday!!!
I had adjust the link between the set of linkage and the pitch as to gain easier lift.
It worked and it lifted more quicker than I expected.
So I landed it... hard...
But got the spare parts with a very cheap price in China!
how much did you get you boom? the last time I got one cost me $7 plus SH this aluminum booms tend to break
easily every bad fall definitley will have a boom strike.... good thing I can get like 9mm aluminum rods here cost very
cheap around 10cents a foot so one tail boon will be only around 12 cents.. very cheap... the only expensive thing to break are the porps... those cost a fortune....
you adusted the pitch of the main blades.. increasing this tend to produce more lift but in return will also drop the headspeed no unless you also adjusted the PZT/PLT setting of you TX to increase the headspeed to create a better mixing of the throttle and pitch.. did you also repalce you motor? no problem if you are using a powerful brushless... this can compensate with the adjusted pitch you made...
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Well, the shop was out of stock in HK.
So I called a guy who was selling me the lipo batt and luckily he was in China.
He got me the tail boom for around US$3.
It's a good idea to get the alumium rod instead!
9mm is the exact dimension?
But how can you fit the tail unit to it?
As the original one has a grove.
What is porps?
Why would my 22E drops the head speed by adjusting the pitch?
Umm, what are PZT/PLT ?
I tried to fly it last night.
It seems it's a bit easier to lift.
But I lowered it as it got to 3-4 feet.
Hee, I got scared to fly it too high as a beginner.
Nope, I haven't changed the motor.
As the motor and the speed control cost me about 50% of the cost of my 22E.
So I guess I would get a new heli after this 22E if I could fly it all right.
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So I called a guy who was selling me the lipo batt and luckily he was in China.
He got me the tail boom for around US$3.
It's a good idea to get the alumium rod instead!
9mm is the exact dimension?
But how can you fit the tail unit to it?
As the original one has a grove.
What is porps?
Why would my 22E drops the head speed by adjusting the pitch?
Umm, what are PZT/PLT ?
I tried to fly it last night.
It seems it's a bit easier to lift.
But I lowered it as it got to 3-4 feet.
Hee, I got scared to fly it too high as a beginner.
Nope, I haven't changed the motor.
As the motor and the speed control cost me about 50% of the cost of my 22E.
So I guess I would get a new heli after this 22E if I could fly it all right.
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Well since you heli is working fine maybe increasing the pitch was just enough to give your heli a good lift.. too much pitch will bog down the motor and definitely you will need to adjust the throttle. this can be done by unlocking the dip-switch found at the back of the TX. then the 2 potentiometers found in the front of the TX the PZT/PLT dials can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise to set the best throttle curve.. Normaly at mid throttle or 50% the skids are becoming lighter.... if you have a pitch gauge you can see that the pitch at 50% is around 2°- 3° and at full 100% throttle the normal setting walkera does is 9°-10° pitch now if you are at 3D mode or mode 1 mid stick is 0° 100% throttle is 9° and %0 throttle is -9° you can test this using a pitchgauge.. but this is if your set-up is all centered.. any changes done on the PZT/PLT changes also the pitching so this will vary... make sure that if you release or unlock the dipswitch you can adjust it correctly..
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Does anybody know a replacement motor for both the tail and main motors that can be bought at Radio Shack? I would imagine they would have a suitable replacement motor instead of having to order one on-line and pay shipping and wait for it to arrive?
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ORIGINAL: soneebee
Well since you heli is working fine maybe increasing the pitch was just enough to give your heli a good lift.. too much pitch will bog down the motor and definitely you will need to adjust the throttle. this can be done by unlocking the dip-switch found at the back of the TX. then the 2 potentiometers found in the front of the TX the PZT/PLT dials can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise to set the best throttle curve.. Normaly at mid throttle or 50% the skids are becoming lighter.... if you have a pitch gauge you can see that the pitch at 50% is around 2°- 3° and at full 100% throttle the normal setting walkera does is 9°-10° pitch now if you are at 3D mode or mode 1 mid stick is 0° 100% throttle is 9° and %0 throttle is -9° you can test this using a pitchgauge.. but this is if your set-up is all centered.. any changes done on the PZT/PLT changes also the pitching so this will vary... make sure that if you release or unlock the dipswitch you can adjust it correctly..
Well since you heli is working fine maybe increasing the pitch was just enough to give your heli a good lift.. too much pitch will bog down the motor and definitely you will need to adjust the throttle. this can be done by unlocking the dip-switch found at the back of the TX. then the 2 potentiometers found in the front of the TX the PZT/PLT dials can be turned clockwise and counterclockwise to set the best throttle curve.. Normaly at mid throttle or 50% the skids are becoming lighter.... if you have a pitch gauge you can see that the pitch at 50% is around 2°- 3° and at full 100% throttle the normal setting walkera does is 9°-10° pitch now if you are at 3D mode or mode 1 mid stick is 0° 100% throttle is 9° and %0 throttle is -9° you can test this using a pitchgauge.. but this is if your set-up is all centered.. any changes done on the PZT/PLT changes also the pitching so this will vary... make sure that if you release or unlock the dipswitch you can adjust it correctly..
Ar!
So I can adjust the +/- of the PZT/PLT while unlock the dip switch!
But how can I set the best throttle curve by turnning the buttons?
Thx for explainning, mate!
Really need to learn more from you expects!
I guess it's all right to keep the pitch as I had adjusted earlier since I wouldn't be doing 3D flying at this stage.
In fact, I just want to have a easier lift.
And guess what!
I didn't crash it this weekend!
Hahaha!
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ippie if your heli is flying good I guess the added pitch you made was just enough to make you heli lift just right.. no need to adjust the PLT and PZT settings as long as your heli can lift and hover easily...
have fun flying....
have fun flying....
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But the hovering is the difficult bit - like balancing a ping pong ball on a water fountain. I was pleased with my Walkera as it was trimmed near enough hands-off outa the box!
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ORIGINAL: heli-john
But the hovering is the difficult bit - like balancing a ping pong ball on a water fountain. I was pleased with my Walkera as it was trimmed near enough hands-off outa the box!
But the hovering is the difficult bit - like balancing a ping pong ball on a water fountain. I was pleased with my Walkera as it was trimmed near enough hands-off outa the box!
that good to hear lucky for you, you got your heli all balanced up out of the ... My heli was not that tuned out of the box.. need to balanced everything before i can even hover it...
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I think what I am saying is that I could tell it was set up reasonably well cos I have been flying helis for a few years. It was still tricky and there was no way I just lifted off immediately. First few times I just let it go light on the skids to see if it had any quirks. In fact I learned how to fly this just like I was learning how to fly even though I could tell it was trimmed to go. How it responds to breezes etc. I guess if I had thrown it in the air straight off I'd probably be looking for new blades in minutes. I think the more you fly the more you realise how demanding this hobby is. My point is that a learner might have the twitchiness disguised by lack of skill. They just do not fly themselves.
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Yup that is what i am right now still in the learning stages, but I also learn the mechanics and electrics along the way which make his hobby alot fun. I got my heli and i can say that it was not really ready out of the box even a simple hover is impossible the thing did not even generate enough lift... but because of this I learned the basics and mechanics.. I jsut hope all the people who wanted to get into this hobby had the patience I had during the learning stages....