shaking!
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I have a walkera 22e and I recently changed the rotor blades.
It now shakes real bad at a certain point. and I can't take off.
Any help??
Thanks
Travis
It now shakes real bad at a certain point. and I can't take off.
Any help??
Thanks
Travis
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If your main blades are new, chances are the main shaft is bent.
You can remove the blades and spool up the heli and look from the top of the head to see the shaft turns true or not. Make sure you hold on the heli to do this. If the main shaft is ture, then the next step is balance and track the main blades, the Walkera stock foam blades come pretty well balance from factory. To track the main blades, you have to tie down/hold on the heli, spool up and look at the blades sideway, you should see only one blade tip. If you see 2, note the color of the lower tip and turn the blade grip link to increase the pitch.
You can remove the blades and spool up the heli and look from the top of the head to see the shaft turns true or not. Make sure you hold on the heli to do this. If the main shaft is ture, then the next step is balance and track the main blades, the Walkera stock foam blades come pretty well balance from factory. To track the main blades, you have to tie down/hold on the heli, spool up and look at the blades sideway, you should see only one blade tip. If you see 2, note the color of the lower tip and turn the blade grip link to increase the pitch.
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I have got the shaking to stop,
but i am not getting any lift off.
How exactly do i go about weighing the wings. I don't have a digital scale.
They are brand new and came with my heli.
but i am not getting any lift off.
How exactly do i go about weighing the wings. I don't have a digital scale.
They are brand new and came with my heli.
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Did you replace both blades at the same time, or just left the one that wasnt working on the heli? Some times the replacement blade is slightly thicker than origional.
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skelarang, to balance your blades, see this:
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/Blade_balancing.html
You don't need to weigh them and you don't need a blade balancer like he uses. Just put a bolt through the holes of both blades and balance the head of the bolt on the razor blade. It's a little tricky, but possible.
To get your blades to track correctly, you have to adjust the lengths of the links that go from the swash plate to the rotor head. Turn on your transmitter (make sure the switch in the upper right of the Tx is in the 'N' posistion and if you have unlocked switch 8 on the back of the Tx, turn the two knobs to 12 o'clock), connect your battery, and allow the servos to initialize. Now, disconnect your battery. Your servo arms should be parallel to the ground. If not, remove the little screw and pop off the servo arm and try to put it back on level. It's not possible to get it perfect.
If you had to take off the servo arms to adjust them, you may want to go through the servo initialization process again. Now look at the swash plate. It should be level to the ground both front to back and side to side. If not, you need to adjust the lenghts of the links that go from the servo arms to the swash plate. To adjust the lenghts, you have to pop the link off the ball on the swash plate. I use a small pair of needle-nose pliers. Unscrew the plasic piece to increase the length, screw it in to decrease the length. You want the swash plate to be level and at about the center of it's travel. The anti-rotation pin that sticks out the back of the swash plate should be about in the center of the range of travel in the groove between the back two servos.
Now that the swash plate is level, you can work on blade tracking. I like to disconnect the tail motor, but it's not necessary. Just make sure you have the heli secured so it won't lift off or rotate. Power up everything and spin up the rotor. Look at it from the side and if your two blades aren't tracking together, you'll have to adjust the lengths of the links from the swash plate to the rotor head. I believe if you make the link shorter it will increase the pitch and bring the lower blade up. You can also adjust the lengths of the short links in the Bell-Hiller head for a more coarse adjustment.
Once you get all this accomplished, we can work on head speed versus pitch.
As you may have guessed, these heli's require a lot of work and are hardly Ready To Fly.
Hope this helps!
-JT
http://www.dream-models.com/eco/Blade_balancing.html
You don't need to weigh them and you don't need a blade balancer like he uses. Just put a bolt through the holes of both blades and balance the head of the bolt on the razor blade. It's a little tricky, but possible.
To get your blades to track correctly, you have to adjust the lengths of the links that go from the swash plate to the rotor head. Turn on your transmitter (make sure the switch in the upper right of the Tx is in the 'N' posistion and if you have unlocked switch 8 on the back of the Tx, turn the two knobs to 12 o'clock), connect your battery, and allow the servos to initialize. Now, disconnect your battery. Your servo arms should be parallel to the ground. If not, remove the little screw and pop off the servo arm and try to put it back on level. It's not possible to get it perfect.
If you had to take off the servo arms to adjust them, you may want to go through the servo initialization process again. Now look at the swash plate. It should be level to the ground both front to back and side to side. If not, you need to adjust the lenghts of the links that go from the servo arms to the swash plate. To adjust the lenghts, you have to pop the link off the ball on the swash plate. I use a small pair of needle-nose pliers. Unscrew the plasic piece to increase the length, screw it in to decrease the length. You want the swash plate to be level and at about the center of it's travel. The anti-rotation pin that sticks out the back of the swash plate should be about in the center of the range of travel in the groove between the back two servos.
Now that the swash plate is level, you can work on blade tracking. I like to disconnect the tail motor, but it's not necessary. Just make sure you have the heli secured so it won't lift off or rotate. Power up everything and spin up the rotor. Look at it from the side and if your two blades aren't tracking together, you'll have to adjust the lengths of the links from the swash plate to the rotor head. I believe if you make the link shorter it will increase the pitch and bring the lower blade up. You can also adjust the lengths of the short links in the Bell-Hiller head for a more coarse adjustment.
Once you get all this accomplished, we can work on head speed versus pitch.
As you may have guessed, these heli's require a lot of work and are hardly Ready To Fly.
Hope this helps!
-JT
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ORIGINAL: jtspin
As you may have guessed, these heli's require a lot of work and are hardly Ready To Fly.
As you may have guessed, these heli's require a lot of work and are hardly Ready To Fly.
http://media.putfile.com/W22E-parking-log-hover
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Or balance one blade at a time.
have someone hold a steak knife on a table for you sharp edge up( please be carefull while doing this, don't cut you'rself or something!!!!!)
and put the blade on the knifes edge. you want to make the blade, balance itself, as best you can. (like a teteer toter at level)
once done mark the blade where it contacts the knifes edge.
then do the same to the second blade..........when done place both blades next to each other to see if the marks you placed on them
line up.
have someone hold a steak knife on a table for you sharp edge up( please be carefull while doing this, don't cut you'rself or something!!!!!)
and put the blade on the knifes edge. you want to make the blade, balance itself, as best you can. (like a teteer toter at level)
once done mark the blade where it contacts the knifes edge.
then do the same to the second blade..........when done place both blades next to each other to see if the marks you placed on them
line up.